Page 1 of 1
[dsn_klr650] digest number 320
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2000 11:14 pm
by JSherlockHolmes@aol.com
In a message dated 7/6/00 5:02:50 PM Canada Central Standard Time,
DSN_klr650@egroups.com writes:
>
Whenever you extend your wiring, it is best to use the exact same gauge that
is currently being used. Changing gauges will change the current carrying
capacity and the resistive properties of the circuit. If I ever change
electrical routing, or if I need to replace old wiring, I always purchase the
same gauge with the same color combination of the insulation. If I can't find
the same color combo, I use tags to label the wire with the proper color
combo, this simplifies matters when I try to use the schematic in the manual
for future projects.
Concerning a new location, well, that can be tough. The KLR doesn't have much
room in the first place. I would start out with your original plan of only
moving it slightly in one direction or the other. Just make sure your new
spot doesn't interfere with your seat before you drill any new holes.
Have fun.
Jim Sherlock
[dsn_klr650] digest number 320
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2000 11:32 pm
by JSherlockHolmes@aol.com
In a message dated 7/6/00 5:02:50 PM Canada Central Standard Time,
DSN_klr650@egroups.com writes:
>
With Bark Busters, you can usually attach aftermarket hand guards for weather
protection. Several companies offer add-on guards that bolt directly to the
aluminum bark buster. If you like Acerbi's products, you can get a similar
product that is made out of a very rigid and tough plastic. These are called
the Rally Dual Sport or Rally hand guards. They attach to the handlebar like
bark busters. They are made out of a very strong plastic compound, and they
come with the "spoilers" to provide weather protection like your stock hand
guards. I use the Rally Dual Sport and I have been totally pleased with their
performance. My hands are warm at night, reasonably dry in the rain, and
fully protected against trees, brush, and the occasional concrete slab. (I
was crossing a concrete river patch in the Los Padres National Forrest when
the moss/algae growing on it caused an immediate loss of traction. I went
down faster than Artie on "Laugh In.") The Rally guard was scratched, but not
bent or broken. In fact, the handlebar wasn't bent either. I surmise that the
flexibility of the plastic helped dissipate the energy of the blow, cuz I
went down hard and fast.
Any-who, hope this helps.
Jim Sherlock
[dsn_klr650] digest number 320
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2000 5:32 am
by Jeffrey L. Walker
>
> Whenever you extend your wiring, it is best to use the exact same gauge
that
> is currently being used. Changing gauges will change the current carrying
> capacity and the resistive properties of the circuit. If I ever change
> electrical routing, or if I need to replace old wiring, I always purchase
the
> same gauge with the same color combination of the insulation. If I can't
find
> the same color combo, I use tags to label the wire with the proper color
> combo, this simplifies matters when I try to use the schematic in the
manual
> for future projects.
>
Yeah, but what if the wire is over-gauged (too small) in the first place?
Most resistance added will be at the connections where you splice in the new
wire. It never hurts to go to a smaller gage than before. I don't know all
that I should about electric circuits, (but I'm currently taking a class!)
but I do know enough that you always want to have the least amount of
resistance as possible in the wires, which means buying better wire, and
avoiding unnecessary splices.
Jeff
[dsn_klr650] digest number 320
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2000 8:59 am
by Gary Bettes
>I think that blue dots designate the location of a fire hydrant.
That's true on cities streets. On freeways you will often see a series of
three, then two and finally one on the far right side of the lane. This
denotes that an exit follows shortly. May also be a series of short white
lines. This is very useful in the fog season in the Sacramento and San
Joaquin valleys.
Gary Bettes
[dsn_klr650] charging system
Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2000 8:10 am
by Skip Faulkner
> Mister_T,
>
> An excited-field alternator is regulated just as Skip said.
> The more powerful the magnetic field is in the alternator,
> the more electrical current will be generated. More
> electrical current is (generally) created at higher
> alternator rpms. With the KLR's permanent magnet setup,
> the electrical output can't be controlled by varying the
> alternator's magnetic strength.
...........................>snip > If Skip wants to contradict me, I hope he's in the right
> "mode" & doesn't dig himself into too deep a hole (g).
>
> I hope this makes some sense.
>
> Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA]
Nope! As far as permanent magnet (magneto) systems go, you are correct.
As you said, the beauty of them is their simplicity. 99% of piston engine
aircraft use magnetos for their ignition system. All they are is a rotating
magnet, coil with pick-ups, and points. Simple, easy to maintain, reliable,
and totally independent of the electrical system.
Skip