stator update

[Jim Hyman]

Nick, Before you install & run with the new regulator, a couple of thoughts. Check the resistance for each of the 3 coils in the stator. This involves 3 separate tests for each 'pair' of yellow wires (i.e. test 1&2 1&3 and 1&2). You won't find numbers 1,2,3 anywhere, You'll need an ohm meter that measures accurately down to 1 ohm. You should have between 0.3 - 1.0 ohms for each test. Also measure the resistance from each of the 3 yellow wires to a good electrical ground. There should be infinite resistance (no connectivity) on these tests. I seem to remember that Dash had an earlier post about a problem with the position of wires facing the wrong direction to exit the stator cavity. If any of the yellow wires are shorted to ground, this will lead to diminished or no charging system. Keep in mind that due to the design of a 3-phase alternator, if one of the charging coils is bad, you loose 2/3 of the charging capacity. An alternative to shipping the stock stator for a rewind: Check to see if a local alternator shop has experience in rewinding motorcycle rotors & stators. Most larger cities have one or more shops that rewind components for nearly every type of vehicle, airplane, boat, etc. For what it's worth department: I performed a couple of quick electrical checks on my stock A9 with a somewhat borderline battery: not running, switch off 12.65 volts @idle, 15 seconds after startup, low beam 13.10 volts @idle, after 20 minute in town ride, low beam 12.72 volts I'll be doing some additional testing with an ammeter & voltmeter hooked up to see what the results are at different rpms. Additional tests will include 1 and 2 additional headlights to verify the maximum charging capacity. Seattle is due for some rain for the next several days, so I may not have these results for another week. I have strong doubts about using the stock regulator with a more powerful stator. Assuming that the stock regulator is designed with a 50% safety factor (i.e. 21 amp maximum capacity for a 14 amp charging system), this means that a beefed up system that can put out 18 amps will work the regulator near its maximum capacity (at higher rpms) and lead to a shorter working life. To put it another way, you can carry a 14 lb. load in a 21 lb. rated bag for quite a while. The bag won't last very long if you're always carrying an 18 lb. load. With the problems that listers are having with Electrex components during installation & running, the safest bet for the time being may be to look elsewhere. Maybe we can discount Dash's problems, he seems to invite trouble in many things that he touches (G!). Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA] ------------------------ Nick Hughes wrote:

> Hi Guys, > Well I spoke to Ritzo again today. I told him, according to his > conversation with my mechanic friend, the regulator is more than likely > shot. I asked him to overnight one to me (hopefully it will be here today > sometime) and I'll see how it goes. > To his credit he said "if that is not the solution, send it back to me and > I'll refund the money." > I'm beginning to think the way to go in future may be to advise everyone on > line to remove their OEM stator and ship it to Baja Designs (I think that's > the name of the co. that's featured on Eric'c KLR page under the electrical > sub-heading) for a re-wrap. I have read several independent reviews that > said their stuff worked and, most importantly, it's using the OEM stator so > screws, plugs and everything else, aren't really going to matter. > It does leave the bike unrideable for a while but maybe we could throw our > obsolete stators into some sort of communal pot that people could make use > of them while they waited for their re-wraps to come home. Just a thought. > Over to you all. > Big Nick > PS: Will let y'all know tomorrow whether or not the regulator is the problem.