thanks to all listers, past and present, who contributed to these works
through the archives as well as contemporary messages. for the benefit of
those who follow in my footsteps, i provide the following notes:
Russell stainless brake line:
I went with the russell because it was bare stainless, which i thought
looked cooler. I didn't really have a problem with the stock braking, but
i'm light and don't really go all that fast. it's only in the occasional
panic stop that i coulda used a little more grab. as it turned out, i needed
an $11 part from fred, and i felt silly gettting just that, so i went ahead
and ordered the brake line too.
I removed the old line without much trouble (after emptying its contents
into a plastic bottle), though i had to look closely at the two guides on
the fork to get them off. one of them is quite bendy, so i held it with some
needlenose visegrips while i unscrewed it. then i cut the rubber protectors
off with a sharp knife, hacking a chunk out of my thumb in the process
(ouch). i removed the old guides on the bars and just let the line stick up
above the crossbar. once i got the new line attached, i retrieved my most
useful tool, an english friend, who happened to be coming over for dinner
with his wife. he was conveniently just walking up the driveway as i was
figuring out how to fill and bleed the new line. i positioned him on the
right side of the bike, while i knelt by the bleed valve, and we got into a
squeeze-close-release-open rhythm. just as the last bubbles were coming out,
i heard a suck sound from above. doh! the silly limey had let the brake
fluid empty out. so we filled it back up and did it again. with two people
it only takes a minute or two. then i tightened everything up and pushed on
the forks once or twice to make sure nothing was binding. voila. easy. the
only weird thing i had to get is some clear tubing. i couldn't find any at
the mc shop or autoparts store, but they had a little handpump started
siphon for 3.99 that had about 6' of clear tubing in just the right size, so
i bought that and used a foot of it to run from the bleed valve into a
bottle so as not to make a mess. and now if i need it, i have a siphon for
gas without getting any in my mouth. later, i realized i could probably have
gotten clear tubing (so as to see the bubbles) at an aquarium store, but
then i wouldn't have a siphon.
Acerbis Rally Pro handguards:
I tapped on the left side of the bars with a hammer, to cut through the
grip. there's some kinda plastic gizmo in mine to make that harder to do
(probably to prevent it from automatically happening when the bike falls
over in the dirt), but it worked anyway. No problems with fit on the left
side. on the right side, i cut a little circle in the end of the grip to
expose the plastic throttle end, then drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes in it
(that's my biggest drillbit. i'm not exactly mr fixit), then used a round
file to file down the edges flush with the bar. then i put the guard on the
right side. this one was touching my brake lever, so i stared at it and
pushed on it and thought about it for a second, then i just loosened the
brake lever mount (2 10mm bolts facing the rider) and moved it inwards on
the bar about 1/8". presto, no more interference. then i gradually tightened
it all up. voila. easier.
i didn't bother moving the throttle inward at all. i think i pushed the
handguard as far into the bar as it would go, but it doesn't seem to
interfere with throttle movement in the slightest. I also had no problems at
all with clearance at the brake line, but i put on the ss line first, which
may have a less bulky fitting. it seems like i have a ton of clearance
there.
hopefully this info will be useful for someone, sometime.
-mark weaver
installed rally pro guards and russel stainless brake line
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