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nklr wheelie dumb question
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2000 4:09 pm
by Nick Hughes
Now this arguably will be the stupidest question ever posted on this list
but here goes anyway. I want to do a wheelie on my KLR, - I've never had a
bike you could do one on before (BM tourers and a Valkyrie), I have this
bike that I know will and - put it down to a mid-life crisis - I would like to.
Here's the question. Can it be done without flipping over on your back?
Or, is it one of those things like ice skating where falling down is part
of the learning process. I ask because I'm scheduled back surgery soon and
don't really relish the idea of landing on my back from a great height at
speed (had to give up skydiving because of this) and want to know if it's
attainable or should I shelve the idea.
I've spoken to people I've seen do them over the years and know about
riding the back brake a little and that there is a quite a big balance zone
once you're up there but really need the "yes, you'll crash a few times" or
"No, I've done bunches of them and never fallen once."
Over to y'all
Nick
[dsn_klr650] spring preload detent?
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2000 4:19 pm
by Dash Weeks
At 04:00 PM 6/27/2000 +0000, monahanwb@... wrote:
>Amigos Listeros Kileros,
>
>I had my Green Go-Nad in the shop (living room) last night to service
>air filter, batt, etc. in prep for a trip up around N. California
>this long weekend coming. I went to torque up the spring preload on
>the rear and noticed it was kind of vague to determine exactly what
>level of preload I was at, given that there are only lines between
>the numbers 1 and 5. Is this how they are marked?? I searched the
>archives and could only find a couple of references to "detents" but
>was unable to find or feel any. Anyone had this same experience?
>It seemed like the 12mm screw was awfully hard to turn, too
>(understandable, since it's compressing a spring). I ended setting
>it to what seemed about halfway to full preload. Also, has anyone
>suffered electrical difficulties from not hooking the fuse holder to
>the battery lid? I could not get the little fu**er to slide in there.
>
>
>
>Manny Garcias,
>Desnuda
>56 Benadryl
>44 Madenform
The graduations from 1-5 are just those lines. You just turn the main body
of the shock up under the numbers, no detents that I have found. To set
your pre-load you should use two people. One to measure your suspension
drop while you are on the bike and it is trip loaded. The sag level varies
with opinion and experience, but I have found that I like my rear end to
sag about 2.5-3 inches. I adjust the pre-load to match that sag with
differing loads. Do it a couple of times and you'll know exactly where to
set it each time your conditions change.
Some people crank up the pre-load to make the ride height higher, well that
should only be done if the sag is greater than say 3 inches. If you are at
5 and are still sagging more than say 3-4 inches then it may be time to
consider a new spring. These numbers are more for dirt as you want the
maximum available suspension travel without it over loaded (ie, too stiff
and bouncing you off in the whoops or rocks). For purely road riding, I
like a soft and slow rear suspension for cruising, but want a tight and
stiff rear end for the hard twisties.
An over all fun had by all setting for most riders is like at 3 and III (if
memory serves me) but mine changes frequently with load, terrain and my
riding mood. I pay a lot of attention to it, others just set it and forget
it.
Again most of your suspension tuning will come from your preferences, your
sag height is a matter of your preference (rules of thumb are preferences
as well), your loaded weight, your terrain and your comfort.
Good Luck
laterZ
Dash