Wilsons Sandbox

In a message dated 6/22/00 11:05:58 AM Canada Central Standard Time, DSN_klr650@egroups.com writes: > Gino, Why the 35w, does the 55w draw too much for the stock KLR electrical system? I've thought about putting some PIAA's on my bike by mounting them to the fork tubes just below the boots, or by attaching a bracket to the lower fork tube pinch bolts. Jim Sherlock Jim Sherlock

In a message dated 6/22/00 11:05:58 AM Canada Central Standard Time, DSN_klr650@egroups.com writes: > I'm not familiar with the "King's." Where do you get them? How much are they? Do you know of a website where I can view them? Thanks. Jim Sherlock

monahanwb@... wrote:

> I am wondering.....since I've been using the marks on the swingarm > for wheel alignment, and I know there are less lazy and mo betta ways > to align the wheels, might that be the usual or typical cause of such > a wobble? My bike has never done that befo, and I just put a new > rear tire (CS 6006) on recently and used the marks to align the > axle. Or, I wonder if it was just road grooves or something.

To my knowledge aiming the rear tire left or right (via mis-adjusted rear axle alignment) will cause a 'pull' on way or another. It may appear as an 'ease to steer(or lean) in one direction' and a 'harder to steer (or lean) in the other direction'..........all of this may or may not contribute to a 'high speed wobble'. I have found.......the 'stock' KLR rake n' trail settings to be right at, if not close to, what I'm calling an unsafe(or wobble) point. Lowering the triple tree on the front forks, or using standard OEM size rear tire O.D.(or bigger) keeps the bike angled forward in such a way as to keep this condition apparent.......therefore, its NOT the direction to go in. Angling the bike toward the rear(that is, keeping the front end up and/or the rear lower), via raising the triple tree on the forks... or using Eldens Fork Extension Caps.......or using a smaller rear O.D. tire(or any other way you see to do it---such as shock spring setting/length) has effectively eliminated this condition on my bike. Examples- Raising the forks in the triple tree, using a taller O.D. front tire, using a smaller O.D. rear tire, using Elden's fork extension caps........would all improve or eliminate the condition you speak of. I have nearly had to do all these to get the bike to where I'm satisfied. Still I believe any little thing that can be done to improve things will probably help--such as no ft. fender bag, larger tread/ dimension front tire(than say an AM24 the tinniest on the market). Wobble once appeared on my bike with the addition of a new rear tire....much as your situation. After lengthy investigation to determine 'why', including the 'wind-front fender theory'/A series-B series comparisons, I've proven (to myself at least) that this situation can be improved and arguably completely remedied by the aforementioned adjustment(s). G'luck Slide