Wilsons Sandbox

At 10:11 PM -0400 6/17/2000, Krgrife@... wrote:

>I know that there are older KLRs like >Conall's that have gone many miles with no problem, the thing is there is no >way to know the condition of the tensioner system without opening up the left >engine side, pulling the alternator and taking a look.

I've been aware of this problem for some time now and always adjust the tensioner manually by removing the magneto cover, nudging the lever arm with a screwdriver and witnessing the tensioner move. I know it's a pain in the ass, but at least I'm sure the tensioner is working. Good luck with your rebuild Kurt; I'll be doing a balancer system overhaul this fall on the A2 (a couple thousand miles away). Mark B2 A2

-----Original Message----- From: Krgrife@... To: dsn_klr650@egroups.com dsn_klr650@egroups.com> Date: Saturday, June 17, 2000 11:11 PM

>I then delayed doing the >install (you have to pull the alternator which takes Kawi's special holder >tool) until I met Elden Carl in Mulege, Baja, last Thanksgiving.

Kurt, Any idea where to get the special holder tool you refer to? Do you know if there is a Kawi part no. for it? I have an A1 that I've parted out but I'd like to strip down the engine completely and I'd also like to have a look at the balancer chain on my A7. Last time I took the A1 apart my local dealer pulled the alternator for me but by the look of things when I got it back,they didn't have the right tool either. I'd rather do it myself anyway, if I could locate one of these tools. Any help appreciated, Steve Pye

> -----Original Message----- > > > I've been aware of this problem for some time now and always adjust > the tensioner manually by removing the magneto cover, nudging the > lever arm with a screwdriver and witnessing the tensioner move. I > know it's a pain in the ass, but at least I'm sure the tensioner is > working. > ). > Mark >

Kurt G's problems got me to thinking. I've got some long trips planned so I figured I'd better inspect the system as outlined by Mark. Took off the magneto cover (messing with my bash plate in order to get to it is the worst part of the job) Seemed to me the lever arm should move forward as the chain loosens. Mine wouldn't nudge forward so it seemed it was working. Also I've got some room left before the tensioner runs out of adjustment. All good news as far as I can tell. But then there's the bad news. I tore the gasket around the rubber slide type holder that the wiring goes through. Since the rubber piece presses against the metal I thought I could get away with it. Not quite. Today after a ride I saw a small pool of oil on the garage floor right under that part of the magneto cover. Mark and others, what do you guys think? Some liquid gasket around the torn area? Liquid gasket on top of the entire old gasket? Order a new gasket? Might take weeks to get one. I don't relish the thought of installing a new gasket because it might be tricky to get on. The wiring attached to the cover makes a straight push installation impossible; It would be easy to mess up a new gasket. Any ideas/advice appreciated. Bogdan

> You might try coating the area with aquarium sealer (Goop has something > similar). I managed to make a 1974 Norton Commando oil tight with this > stuff. > > Ed > Windsor Oh >

Wow, An oil tight Norton; that's impressive. Get it at a pet store, right. Thanks, Bogdan

At 4:06 PM -0600 6/20/2000, Bogdan Swider wrote:

>But then there's the bad news. I tore the gasket >around the rubber slide type holder that the wiring goes through. Since the >rubber piece presses against the metal I thought I could get away with it. >Not quite. Today after a ride I saw a small pool of oil on the garage floor >right under that part of the magneto cover. Mark and others, what do you >guys think? Some liquid gasket around the torn area? Liquid gasket on top of >the entire old gasket? Order a new gasket? Might take weeks to get one. I >don't relish the thought of installing a new gasket because it might be >tricky to get on. The wiring attached to the cover makes a straight push >installation impossible; It would be easy to mess up a new gasket. Any >ideas/advice appreciated. Bogdan

It happened to me too once when I was too lazy to remove the sprocket cover. Removing the sprocket cover will give the wiring more slack so that it will be less likely to pull away from the magneto cover. I slopped some (but not too much!) Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker on and around the old gasket. Make sure it cures a bit before reassembly. Mark B2 A2

At 8:23 PM -0400 6/20/2000, Krgrife@... wrote:

>In a message dated 6/20/00 3:07:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time, >BSwider@... writes: > > figured I'd better inspect the system as outlined by Mark. Took off the > magneto cover (messing with my bash plate in order to get to it is the worst > part of the job) Seemed to me the lever arm should move forward as the chain > loosens. Mine wouldn't nudge forward so it seemed it was working. >> > >Bogdan---If your KLR is a pre 96 like mine you really can't tell if the lever >arm is not moving because the chain is tight or because it is distorted from >the adjuster bolt and can't move. It is necessary to pull the alternator >flywheel to really see. This is what made me think that mine was ok when in >fact it was about to break. >kurt Grife

I think you're OK to just pull the magneto cover and loosen the the adjuster bolt about 2 1/2 to three turns. I removed mine and added a washer. My lever arm wasn't distorted, but it was embossed. I guess if you have the flywheel puller and rotor holder and extra time handy, then you may as well have fun if you have any doubt. Mark B2 A2

> Bogdan---If your KLR is a pre 96 like mine you really can't tell if the > lever > arm is not moving because the chain is tight or because it is distorted > from > the adjuster bolt and can't move. It is necessary to pull the alternator > flywheel to really see. This is what made me think that mine was ok when > in > fact it was about to break. > kurt Grife >

Boy oh boy, Right now I have no choice but to follow Mark's "if it ain't broke" philosophy. Or you could say " A coward dies a thousand deaths, a brave man but once" However, your bike has already "died". If you get the chain from Canada (I've heard $80-90 US) and if your sprockets are still OK, I guess you're investing mostly time. Don't know how much the special tools cost. Then there's the experience factor. Many of us don't tear engines down on a routine basis. You said you'd "share" your experience with us. That would be great. Bogdan, Who's planning to return to Guatemala later this summer and who's bike's on 31.6k miles. In some ways having to leave the bike somewhere down there wouldn't be the end of the world....except, all the mods and extras on it would be hard to replace.