Wilsons Sandbox

> OK what's the secret for breaking the tire bead on the trail. The > changing out of my stock KLR rear tire was a tuff job on getting the > bead broke until I rigged up a bead breaker. After that it's a piece of > cake. I generally use Simple Green to lube the tires and rim for re > inflation. Think it may be a good idea to buy a bead breaker for the > trail or get a good C-clamp? >

I heard that if you are riding with buddies, you can lay your wheel down on the ground, then use his/her side stand to apply pressure to the tire and break the bead that way. I haven't had to do this, but it seems like a good method. Jeff

Selecting a tire with an easy bead will help. I've only had experience with three different tires: Kendas, Chengs, and Avons. The Gripsters were the hardest to break. With Kendas, I only need to lay the wheel on the ground and dig in with my heels. With gripsters, I had to use plant the bike's sidestand on the tire. The sidestand method works great; I hate carrying tools I that I can do without. I've heard that riding flat a short while will break the bead too, but be careful not to ding the rim. Mark B2 A2 At 4:37 PM -0500 6/19/2000, aches@... wrote:

>OK what's the secret for breaking the tire bead on the trail. The >changing out of my stock KLR rear tire was a tuff job on getting the >bead broke until I rigged up a bead breaker. After that it's a piece of >cake. I generally use Simple Green to lube the tires and rim for re >inflation. Think it may be a good idea to buy a bead breaker for the >trail or get a good C-clamp?

good deal. my local shops are very very reluctant to change out tires i did not buy from them ("too busy"... some businessmen...). it's usually about $60 (US) if they will do it. if i could only balance those street tires, i might be set. -----Original Message----- From: Karl Raupp [mailto:garagedoor79@...] Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:57 PM To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Breaking beads

> OK what's the secret for breaking the tire bead on the trail. The > changing out of my stock KLR rear tire was a tuff job on getting

the

> bead broke until I rigged up a bead breaker. After that it's a

piece of

> cake.

That is a dilema for being by yourself. I got my stock Dunlop off with no difficulty. Last night I tried to change my Conti TKC-80 in the garage using 2 18" irons and after cutting open my thumb in one spot and getting a blood blister in another, I gave up. I never tried using any soapy water/simple green, etc on it, but it does make sense. I choose to wimp out and take the wheel to a local shop. $15 (that's CDN too) got my new tire mounted and balanced (what a deal!). I plan to carry a tube of slime with me from now on, as a just in case measure. TTYL Karl ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Old school buds here: http://click.egroups.com/1/5536/5/_/911801/_/961466233/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

> > good deal. my local shops are very very reluctant to change out tires i

did

> not buy from them ("too busy"... some businessmen...). it's usually

about

> $60 (US) if they will do it. > > if i could only balance those street tires, i might be set. >

Use Slime to balance them.. I havent tried it yet, but others say it works. Has anybody tried the Moose pre Slimed tubes???? MotorMark

> > if i could only balance those street tires, i might be set. >

After my wife banned me from using the backs of 2 dining room chairs (and the axle) I made a static balancing jig from some MDF from an old packing crate and 4 x small ball bearing races @ around $3 each (trade price) from an industrial outlet. I use automotive stick on wheel weights 'cause they are cheap. This method is accurate enough on my road bike up to 120mph (on the track officer...). For spoke wheels surely the local bike shop will sell you the crimp on weights? If not tape over the stick on weights with duct tape to keep them secure. If you use the dining room chairs I advise cleaning the grease & grunge off the components first... Matt.

At 02:55 PM 6/19/00 -0700, Weaver, Mark wrote:

>i can only speak for myself, but was surprised to not have too much trouble >with my first tire change on my klr (my first ever on a motorcycle too). i >used 3 foot-long levers, squirted some diluted dishsoap along the bead, then >stuck the pointy end of the levers in there (2 at a time) and pried towards >the tire for all i was worth. i tried in 3-4 different spots before it >finally broke loose and moved away from the rim. once that first point gave >way, the rest was easy. it's possible that since my stock tire was only 6 >months old, it hadn't had time to really set on there too well. possible >also that since i don't ride in alot of muck, there's less crap and dried >mud and decomposing banana slugs in there to gum it up. i have had much more >difficulty on bicycle tires that were ridden in lots of mud and then dried. > >i think the key may be to give the soap (or simple green) a few minutes to >soak in before attacking it with the levers. >mw

I just place my rotor in the dirt, making sure there aren't any rocks larger than my fist. Then I straddle the rim with my MX boots and start jumping up and down. Then I turn 90 degrees and do it again until all the bead is off. Chain lube is an excellent bead lube and since I don't have tire irons I use a flat tip screwdriver to get things off and then in place again. Oh wait, I shouldn't joke about this with the list since things are taken so seriously... HMM well I don't actually have a normal screw driver so I use my Leatherman. I suspect it would be easier with a normal screwdriver though. LaterZ Dash

Hey all- Could someone explain this? I was under the impression that slime remained liquid-like inside your tube so that should you get a puncture, it will flow out and seal it. But if it is liquid, then won't it settle to the bottom of your tube as soon as you let the bike sit for extended periods? And wouldn't that cause some amount of vibration from basically having a 6 oz wheel weight next time you go riding? Anyone have any experience with this? I used to be extremely skilled at riding over nails, torns, screws, etc. when I mountain biked... In fact I think that was the only part of biking that I was really good at... But I digress, after chewing through 3 patch kits and two tubes in 3 months of riding I decided that I needed to do something about it (you've never seen anyone so fast with a quikstik). So I purchased liners for my tires. I forget what they were called... Tuff-somethings, I think... but in effect they were thick, slightly pliable plastic strips that I placed inside of the tire between the tube and the tire. Well they lowered the frequency of my flats, but I had to be much more careful when I was running lower tire pressures as the strips would case snake bites. Do they make these things for motorcycles, or would they create too much frictional heat in the tire? Zack

> > Use Slime to balance them.. I havent tried it yet, but others say it works. > > Has anybody tried the Moose pre Slimed tubes???? > > MotorMark >