[dsn_klr650] final word in chain slack

[Jeffrey L. Walker]

> In a message dated 6/11/00 1:21:27 AM, jlwalk@... writes: > > > geometry while it is unloaded, then adjusting it this way is not only > > perfectly fine, it is also much more practical, and that is why this > > procedure is given by every manufacturer. The Kawasaki procedure is with > > the bike on the sidestand, and at the tightest part of the chain, >> > > this is the contradiction that I have problems with, With the bike on the > sidestand, the chain is at its loosest, it is foolish and possibly

dangerous

> to trust taking a measurement at this point, one needs to know if the

chain

> is too tight when the swingarm is in line with the swingarm pivot point

and

> countershaft sprocket. > if it is too tight you could damage the countershaft, bearings, > sprockets,swingarm and so on. I have lost confidence with what Kawasaki

has

> to say about how to adjust things after going through my own personal > nightmare with my balancer chain adjuster.

Well, first off, the chain shouldn't be at its loosest when on the sidestand, as you should have a little sag in the suspension due to the bike's weight. Do you have your preload adjusted up on your shock? You are right, you should check the chain tension at the tightest point in the suspension travel. But once you have it adjusted there properly, you will find that you can then check with the bike on its sidestand too. ( I set mine at 60 mm with the pre-load set to 1 (crank it back up afterwards). I have checked the chain tension at full tightness by using a ratchet strap from one swing arm, over the rear rack, and to the other swing arm to compress the rear suspension, and check the alignment of the countershaft, swing arm pivot and rear axle with a yard stick. I have found about 12-15 mm of play there.) Theoretically, if the chain has no tension in it at the tightest point of the suspension travel, you don't need any slack at all there. The slack you do put in at that point is to accommodate any flex in the frame and swingarm while riding. Look I'm not saying you are necessarily wrong, and it is definitely better to run the chain too loose than too tight. I am saying that Kawasaki was right in their specs. They specified checking the chain tension with the bike on the sidestand, which means they expect some sag in the rear suspension for the measurement as the factory setting for the pre-load is 1. I have also seen manufacturers specify checking chain slack with the bike up on a stand, with the rear suspension off the ground and therefore the chain is at its loosest point. And I have seen manufacturers give specs for the chain slack at both points, tightest and loosest. But Kawasaki wrote their specs for the average Japanese, who wouldn't need to crank up the pre-load on the rear shock, and thus when the average American rides one, one of the first things that they do is crank up the pre-load. Set your pre-load back to 1, then watch how much sag you get when you put the bike on the sidestand, and check your chain slack, then check it at the tightest point again, and you will find it to be just fine. (maybe a tad too tight, as they didn't leave enough slack for frame flex, which is why I set my chain at 60mm.) Problems with the counter balancer adjustment? That is a new one on me. Loosen the bolt "a few turns" and then retighten. I guess they could be more specific and detailed in those instructions, but its such a simple procedure. I understand how it is easy to overlook the suspension sag on the sidestand, and whoever wrote the manual overlooked that point. I guess the problems with the instructions are a lack of writing them for the "Average American", the people who need things like "Danger, do not drive car with this product in place" written on a windscreen sunshade. (You know somebody tried it!) Jeff