Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Mon Jun 05, 2000 9:14 am**

kenneth scott wrote: [...]

> Intake were both .10mm > Exhaust were both .15mm > These seem to me on the tight side of spec according > to the manual. I thought I heard that the KLR's > valves tighten up instead of loosen.

If there is no appreciable wear occurring in the valve gear then IMO this should be the case. Others here may have experience that is contrary. On a bike that routinely opens up the valve clearances I would be inclined to check the cam lobe height at each valve adjustment.

> If that is the > case then I should swap for a "thinner" shim to > increase valve clearance right?. Or should I leave > them and let them "loosen" over time???

The next shim size for each valve should put them all bang in the middle of spec, so IMO it would be worth doing.

> Last question, why do the listers use inch feeler > gauges vs. metric feeler gauges, availability?

Makes me wonder too, must be some sort of cultural thing. There would be enough metric vehicles of all types in the USA to justify metric measuring tools on the shelves.

> One tip, I had to drop the radiator(3 bolts) and it > made getting the valve cover off much easier.

Mister_T

Posted: **Mon Jun 05, 2000 11:07 am**

> >Last question, why do the listers use inch feeler >gauges vs. metric feeler gauges, availability?

I use thousandths, since that is what I have the most experience with. A scosh, a hair and a bit are all something I quantify in thousands, inches and feet..... not metrics. My Guages have both units on them. In that range the differences get lost in the third and forth decimal place. Example - 0.010" = 0.2540 mm 0.008" = 0.2032 mm 0.006" = 0.1524 mm 0.004" = 0.1016 mm LaterZ Dash

Posted: **Mon Jun 05, 2000 11:18 am**

the valve clearances tighten over time. as the valve wears and drops further into its seat, the other end of the valve gets higher (closer to the cam, reducing the clearance). i would loosen all valves on your bike. if it's fairly new, loosen them alot. if it's over 10k miles or so, you could probably just loosen them a little. don't forget to remeasure after you swap shims, just to be safe. i use inches because that's what my gauge has. the mm readings on it are converted from inches (so they're kind of odd metric sizes). you would think metric would be easier to come by in the states, but i've had to look pretty hard just to find a tape measure that has metric markings on it. i would way rather have a metric feeler gauge that also had odd inch conversions stamped on it, but maybe the foreign cars don't need to be screwed with us much, so the inch stuff remains popular. mw

> -----Original Message----- > From: Ted Palmer [mailto:tedp@...] > Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 7:12 AM > To: klr650 > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Valve clearance Help. > > > kenneth scott wrote: > [...] > > Intake were both .10mm > > Exhaust were both .15mm > > These seem to me on the tight side of spec according > > to the manual. I thought I heard that the KLR's > > valves tighten up instead of loosen. > > If there is no appreciable wear occurring in the valve gear then IMO > this should be the case. Others here may have experience that is > contrary. > On a bike that routinely opens up the valve clearances I would be > inclined to check the cam lobe height at each valve adjustment. > > > If that is the > > case then I should swap for a "thinner" shim to > > increase valve clearance right?. Or should I leave > > them and let them "loosen" over time??? > > The next shim size for each valve should put them all bang in the > middle of spec, so IMO it would be worth doing. > > > Last question, why do the listers use inch feeler > > gauges vs. metric feeler gauges, availability? > > Makes me wonder too, must be some sort of cultural thing. There would > be enough metric vehicles of all types in the USA to justify metric > measuring tools on the shelves. > > > One tip, I had to drop the radiator(3 bolts) and it > > made getting the valve cover off much easier. > > Mister_T > > > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ---------- > Never lose a file again. Protect yourself from accidental deletes, > overwrites, and viruses with @Backup. > Try @Backup it's easy, it's safe, and it's FREE! > Click here to receive 300 MyPoints just for trying @Backup. > http://click.egroups.com/1/4936/5/_/911801/_/960214493/ > -------------------------------------------------------------- > ---------- > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > >

Posted: **Mon Jun 05, 2000 4:46 pm**

Here's a table of conversions for you. This always helps me. DAngus A-11 -----Original Message----- From: Ted Palmer [mailto:tedp@...] Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:12 AM To: klr650 Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Valve clearance Help. kenneth scott wrote: [...]

> Intake were both .10mm > Exhaust were both .15mm > These seem to me on the tight side of spec according > to the manual. I thought I heard that the KLR's > valves tighten up instead of loosen.

If there is no appreciable wear occurring in the valve gear then IMO this should be the case. Others here may have experience that is contrary. On a bike that routinely opens up the valve clearances I would be inclined to check the cam lobe height at each valve adjustment.

> If that is the > case then I should swap for a "thinner" shim to > increase valve clearance right?. Or should I leave > them and let them "loosen" over time???

The next shim size for each valve should put them all bang in the middle of spec, so IMO it would be worth doing.

> Last question, why do the listers use inch feeler > gauges vs. metric feeler gauges, availability?

Makes me wonder too, must be some sort of cultural thing. There would be enough metric vehicles of all types in the USA to justify metric measuring tools on the shelves.

> One tip, I had to drop the radiator(3 bolts) and it > made getting the valve cover off much easier.

Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Never lose a file again. Protect yourself from accidental deletes, overwrites, and viruses with @Backup. Try @Backup it's easy, it's safe, and it's FREE! Click here to receive 300 MyPoints just for trying @Backup. http://click.egroups.com/1/4936/5/_/911801/_/960214493/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Posted: **Mon Jun 05, 2000 4:55 pm**

Hi, Rob. Welcome to the list. I have a scan of the maint. table from the manual ready to go. I'm goint to try and attach it here, but if that doesn't work e-mail me and I'll send it to you off-list. It is a jpg file. I usually use mid-grade as a minimum in my bike. There are those who would argue that it's a waste of money, but it doesn't ping so maybe that's why. Try it, and if it works, for the extra 50 cents or so a tankful is worth it. Cheers, D. GBG eh14

--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Robb S" wrote: > Hello there. I have posted a few times before but maybe a bit too > hastily and never really introduced myself. My name is Robb Seurkamp > and I live in the Baltimore area. > I recently purchased a Y2KLR650 for commuting and eventually some > weekend off roading, not sure where I am going to go around here yet. > I enjoy reading your posts and getting your responses. > Hope you can help me with another question. Should a KLR ping when it > is new? I remember reading somewhere that the valves might "stick" > when it is breaking in. I have almost completed the first half of > break in, 495 miles. The engine seems to make the most protest when I > nail the throttle from a stop, or rolling on the throttle a little > harder than usual from @2750-3500 rpm. It is not like I am a big guy > and causing the bike to have to work hard, unlike some of the listers > here, I am 5' 10" 160. I was thinking of running high octane on the > next tank to see if it goes away. Any other suggestions? > Also another quick one. What is involved in the 500 mile service? The > dealer is still trying to get me my manual from the dealer it > transferred the bike from. > > Thanks a bunch. > > Robb > Y2KLR 495 miles(so close to the next part of break in I can taste > it!!)

Wilsons Sandbox

another klr newbie

[dsn_klr650] valve clearance help.

[dsn_klr650] valve clearance help.

[dsn_klr650] valve clearance help.

[dsn_klr650] valve clearance help.

another klr newbie