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[dsn_klr650] chain tech, nklr
Posted: Thu May 25, 2000 9:35 am
by Jeffrey L. Walker
>
> What's the best type of chain lube? I won't touch that one with
> a 106 link length of chain. I use PJ-1 o-ring lube and/or gear
> oil.
>
> Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA]
>
Ah Professor, let me enlighten you. Maxxim Chain Wax. Its THE shit to use.
I use plain old WD-40 and a couple of rags to clean my o-ring chain, with
maybe a little scrubbing from a nylon tooth brush if the gunk is really bad.
Then start the bike up, and ride it for about ten minutes to warm the chain
up. Come home and spray on the chain wax and let it sit for 10-20 minutes.
The stuff dries to the consistency of cosmoline (which is the packaging
material that the military uses to preserve weapons for shipping.) It
doesn't attract dirt like that PJ-1 stuff does (I used to use that before I
switched.) Basically, I just give my chain a quick spray of wax after every
tankful of gas and its good to go. I only worry about cleaning it with the
WD-40 about every 2000 miles or more, depending on how many sand washes and
mud holes I've gone through in the mean time.
The only drawback I've seen with the chain wax is that it might not protect
the contact patches on the rollers as well as other lubes, but I have only
noticed this in very heavy rain and daily riding, combined with not lubing
the chain every tankful of gas. What happened was some very light corrosion
on the rollers that easily cleaned off, and like I said, I was riding in the
rain daily between Ft. Lewis and the University of Washington, and my bike
sat in the rain all day long, plus I won't lubing the chain as often as I
should have. So if it rains more, I just applied a little more chain wax
and there were no problems. Now that I live in Tri-Cities, Eastern
Washington, and with all the desert riding I do, it is imperative that the
lube doesn't attract dirt and sand, and the chain wax doesn't. I used to
not even lube the chain over here on my other bikes, and they'd last longer
than if I had used the PHI-1 on them, unless I cleaned the chain weekly that
is.
I'm here to say, after 8000 miles with the same chain and sprockets and
chain wax, my chain and sprockets have hardly worn at all. I've only had to
adjust the chain once in those miles, and that was right after I put them
on.
One more thing, to align the rear wheel I use a tape measure between the
swing arm pivot bolt and the axle.
Jeff
[dsn_klr650] chain tech, nklr
Posted: Thu May 25, 2000 9:55 am
by Skip Faulkner
> Volumes could be written about proper chain care & maintenance.
>
..........................>snip > when the rear suspension is fully compressed and when your bike
> is on its side stand.
> I remove my (o-ring) chain once a year & soak it for 2-3 hours in
> heated gear oil & hang it up to drip-dry overnight. Don't do this
> in the house or the misses will kill you - heated gear oil smells
> worse than squirrel piss. I use WD-40 to "clean" my chain
> periodically, especially after riding in the rain. WD-40 is NOT
> a good chain lubricant, it's too light weight. .
>
> Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA]
>
Thanks for the excellent post. The two things I question is where you
stated that when the suspension is compressed, the chain is most loose. If
you check your slack and then have someone press down on the rear of the
bike, or from the right side, reach over the seat and grab the swingarm and
pull down, you will see that the chain tightens up considerably.
If you call Tsubaki and D.I.D. and talk to one of their engineers, they
will advise you regularly to spray the chain with WD-40. This is mainly to
clean. They say that with an o-ring chain no chain lube made will penetrate
past the o-rings and is unneccessary. WD-40 (because it`s so light) has the
best chance of penetrating and will help. I use to lube my o-ring chains
regularly with chain lube and gear oil, but since I quit, and just spray
down with WD-40 at least a couple of times within every 1000 miles, my chain
life has been just as long, if not longer.
I especially agree with you on periodically removing the chain and
soaking. I soak in kerosene for a couple of hours and clean with a
toothbrush, drip dry, then spray down with WD-40 to get all the kerosene
out. The kerosene really cuts the grime. Tsubaki said not to leave in the
kerosene more than a few hours and especially not overnight, as it wiil
cause the o-rings to swell.
Excellent post Jim.
Skip
[dsn_klr650] chain tech, nklr
Posted: Thu May 25, 2000 11:20 am
by Rev. Chuck
>> Volumes could be written about proper chain care & maintenance.
>> I remove my (o-ring) chain once a year & soak it for 2-3 hours in
>> heated gear oil & hang it up to drip-dry overnight.
>They say that with an o-ring chain no chain lube made will penetrate
>past the o-rings and is unneccessary. WD-40 (because it`s so light) has the
>best chance of penetrating and will help. I use to lube my o-ring chains
>regularly with chain lube and gear oil, but since I quit, and just spray
>down with WD-40 at least a couple of times within every 1000 miles, my chain
>life has been just as long, if not longer.
> I especially agree with you on periodically removing the chain and
>soaking. I soak in kerosene for a couple of hours and clean with a
>toothbrush, drip dry, then spray down with WD-40 to get all the kerosene
>out. The kerosene really cuts the grime. Tsubaki said not to leave in the
>kerosene more than a few hours and especially not overnight, as it wiil
>cause the o-rings to swell.
This thread is in perfect timing with my questions, thanks. I have been using o-ring chains for some time now, but had no idea lube could not get past the seals, makes sense when you think about it. I will tell you however, be very selective in what chemicals you soak your o-ring or x-ring chain in. NEVER, NEVER use solvents!
After an hour in mineral spirits, my first o-ring chain was'nt any more: The seals had begun desolving, rendering the chain a loose and worthless collection of links.
But v-e-r-y clean ;^)
---
Rev. Chuck
:^)>+
A13
http://klr650.50megs.com
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[dsn_klr650] chain tech, nklr
Posted: Thu May 25, 2000 6:58 pm
by Skip Faulkner
> Skip,
>
> The key word is "FULLY" compressed. Riders notice that the
> chain slack is tighter when they sit on their bikes, compared
> to the slack when it's on the sidestand. They assume that the
> chain keeps tightening up as the rear suspension is compressed
> further, and at full compression it must be really, really
> tight.
.........................>snip > Thanks for your feedback - as usual, very valuable to all.
>
> Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA]
Jim,
I was referring to fully compressed. But to be honest, I had a friend
help me and was a couple of inches short of fully compressing it.
At that point the chain was tighter than with no load. I wasn`t aware that
at fully compressed it loosened back up due to the geometry. I`ll check it
out. Thanks a lot.
That`s what I like about this List. We have developed so many
assumptions over years of experience and well meaning advice, that there is
always something new to learn.
Adios,
Skip
>
> BTW, and I hope this isn't too commercial, but the Shomer Tec catalog
> carries fresh Cyalume lightsticks for $1 ea, any color/duration (except
> infrared). I usually carry one/two of those, too. If anyone's
> interested, mail me off-list for the address.
>
> Chris
>
>
> --
> Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel
> Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology
> MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794
> Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677
>
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