[dsn_klr650] remote fuse block

[Skip Faulkner]

[b]...............>snip BTW... I ran 12 guage wire.  It pretty much looked heavier than anything else that was on the bike except for the battery cables themselves.  Heavy enough?  Too heavy?  Too light? Cheers, Arne     [b]  Looks good Arne. I used 12 gauge when I re-wired my headlight and my other major circuits. It should be fine for your application, but to be sure, or to determine the correct circuit protection for this gauge and application, there are other factors that must be used to properly select conductor size and protection rating. I remember a post not long ago where a Lister stated that he was upping his fuse rating and due to the fact that the conductor size was rated for it , it would be ok. It`s not quite that simple.[/b] [b]  The following are factors that have to be taken into consideration, other wise you could cause some serious damage.[/b] [b]  1- [u]Length of run[/u] (the longer the run,the larger the conductor size needs to be for a given current draw)[/b] [b]  2-[u]In free air or is it in a bundle[/u] (if in a bundle, the temperature of the conductor becomes higher due to lack of moving air around it and the absorption of heat from the other conductors in the bundle, therefore dictating the use of a larger size conductor than would otherwise have been needed)[/b][b] [/b] [b]  3- [u]Total current [/u]( The total current either planned or in use. Will all accessories being supplied by this conductor be on at the same time?[/b] [b]  4- [u]Intermittent or continuous [/u]( will the accessory/accessories be intermittent or continuous in operation,i.e. starter/intermittent[/b] [b]turn signal/intermittent, GPS/continuous, running lights/continuous etc..Intermittent accessories can use a smaller conductor than a same amp draw continuous accessory)[/b]   [b] [/b][b]The above has to be used, as all affect conductor performance and must also be used to determine circuit protection (fuses). [/b] [b]   I can send the chart for doing this to anyone interested and is the same one I use at work designing aircraft circuits, being the industry standard for aerospace and engineering applications.[/b] [b]   Also, soldered connections are not to be considered a structural (stress resistant) connection, whereas a crimp type is. In other words, there is nothing wrong with soldering a crimped connector, it would add strength. But due to the vibration and jarring a bike takes, soldering alone is prone to failure. As was previously mention in another post, shrink wrap is excellent for protection and added strength.[/b]   [b]Skip[/b]