[dsn_klr650] klr650: valve questions

[Verle Nelson]

Todd Wilmotte wrote:

> Am also considering going with a 14 tooth sprocket to bump up RPM's at > lower speeds in hopes of getting a little better oomph in lower gears

while

> offroading... I rarely do over 70 (75 max) while on highways so am willing > to sacrifice mid to upper RPM performance.... Pros/Cons??

I'm currently using a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket with the stock 43 tooth rear sprocket. I installed it for about 450 miles of off-pavement riding in southeastern Utah this spring and I will probably leave it on since I ride 4WD roads in western Colorado mountains. Pros: it makes only a little over 7% difference in overall gearing but that is enough to make a noticeable difference in the way the bike feels riding nasty stuff. I may gear even lower (bigger rear) for a particular nasty place I have in mind in Utah. It won't cramp your style for highway riding unless you plan a long tour. Between trails in Utah, friends and I often rode 100 miles of pavement at speeds ranging from 80MPH to 90MPH indicated. Curious, I tried top speed and saw 98MPH indicated -- about the same as my KLR did with the stock gearing at similar altitudes (over 4,000 ft. and up). With either countershaft sprocket the bike will not redline in top gear. Off pavement, this gearing does a lot to make the KLR650 "feel" like a "dirt bike." Cons: I don't really like the way the bike feels on pavement with the 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. I know it's subjective, but it actually feels to me like it's slower on acceleration. I'm getting used to it. I plan to ride the 160 miles from my house to Moab for the Get-Together with the 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. The Interstate is posted at 75MPH. I figure, what with a five MPH error and a five MPH leeway, I'm safe at 85 indicated. It's worked so far. On secondary roads -- well, there isn't much traffic out here. Common sense, not the 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket, might slow me down. Verle Nelson Cedaredge, CO

[Bogdan Swider]

> In fact, if cam removal is required and slack > is introduced in the cam chain, the plunger will extend, resulting in > an overtight chain after the cams are resecured. The safe procedure > would be to initially remove the entire tensioner housing and then > retract the plunger and reinstall the housing when the job is done. > Am > I out to lunch here? >

I'm eating lunch. Tuna in olive oil & tomato on a pretzel roll, Yummy. Nobody cares? OK on to your question. Don't know if your logic is correct + my manuals are at home. But......Seems to me a few months ago a lister did exactly what you suggest and.....his cam chain loosened and became misaligned. He put the bike back together started it and promptly bent a valve. His dealer (they're not all bad) covered his f*&^k up on warranty. Kurt S wrote an excellent analysis of this incident at the time. Buen Provecho, Smacznego, Bon Apetite, Bogdan