[dsn_klr650] re; national cycle windshields

[Dash Weeks]

Howdy Randy, I don't have answers to all your questisons but about the fuse box relocation. Don't bother. Use re-settable fuses and leave them in place. As for removing the seat with side panels on.... you could drill a 5/8" hole through your side panel to access the seat screws. Then take a flat piece of latex (1mm thick) and glue it on the back side of the panel over the hole. Then take an awl and poke a hole through the center of the latex. This is for keeping critters, water and dirt out of the hole. They still get behind there from all the sides, but a hole in your panel doesn't look that great. The hole in the latex is so that you can push a screw driver through, or a socket to get at the head of the screw. The tricky part will be re-installing the screws through the latex. Perhaps devise a clever way to keep the screw in the hole of the seat tab. Another peice of latex glued onto the tab will hold the screw well enough. A spring loaded flapper door would work here as well. If you want to elliminate the screws at the tabs all together then I am envisioning a cable, cam and pin mechanism. Loop a thin cable around to the back of the seat from both sides. The cable is attached to a spring loaded lever arm that gets displaced as you pull on the cable loop. The lever has a pin on it that slides through the seat tab and into the frame hole. An oversized pin is better than the screw diameter so you may want to drill out the frame hole threads. Or how about a Vault door lock type mechanism. One with two pins a center pivot and linkage arms. You access it from under the wheel well. (you'll have to drill through the rear sub-fender) You turn the handle and it pulls the two pins out of the frame and seat tab, to re-install you just set the seat in place and turn the handle back again. The pins slide back through the frame and seat tabs. OOH OOOH a spring loaded pin mechanism from the inside of the frame and running a cable to the rear of the seat. Well that's enough creative juices for today. My boss gets nothing now. I might as well go home and work on my bike. LaterZ Dash

>Has anyone converted the seat so it is detachable w/o >taking the side panels off? I've got a set of givi >saddlebags and the side racks make it a pain to get >the panels off, much less the seat. I am considering >the fuse box relocation, but havent pulled the >trigger. Plus the fuse box isn't the only reason I >want under the seat. >Randy >'00 KLR >

A2 - Da' Bomb No Longer Crashing for Beer Will wheelie for Virgin Oil

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > Having pioneered fairings and windscreens for recumbent bicycles.I >must comment that large handlebar fairing are not recommended.

Yes and no, I haven't pioneered any thing but have messed around with them a lot. Let's talk 90mph. A National Cycle would make my BMW R65 dangerous at that speed. The BMW handlebar fairing with sturdier hardware and multiple mounting points was fine most of the time. On occasion road wallows and cross winds would make things harry. My A9 with its Slipsteamer in conjunction with the stock frame mounted fairing and windshield + low front fender is rock solid at any speed and halfway normal road condition. Bogdan ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com