Wilsons Sandbox

Anyone here ever try using cold gun blueing solution on the inside of a tank? I think that may be the ticket. Mark B2 A2 At 11:54 AM -0500 4/24/2000, aches@... wrote:

>I have to agree with Kurt on the rust removal procedure. >When I was doing this on a regular basis, every once in while (too >often in fact) the creme would start breaking loose and end up in the >strainers and carb. Best not to use it if at all possible. But in a >shop, you can't sit around doing several operations of the shaky routine >and charge the customer for the time involved without him or her going >ballistic on ya. ha ha ha.

I'm not quite sure you want to do that. I cold gun blue steel parts all the time. After soaking you remove the part and then quench the reaction with boiling water for 30 seconds, flushing over the surface. Then you re-soak the part in gun oil (I do it overnight) when that is done, then you wipe it with a rag. What comes off is what concerns me about using it in the tank. You get a purple/black residue. If you didn't uniformly coat the surface with solution then you get oxide chunks. Obviously in your tank, you can't coat evenly, unless you fill it with solution, you can't flush it properly for 30 seconds with boiling water and the water displacement oiling treatment would be difficult. Then there's the wiping part.... I did seriously consider doing it to my tank. the Kreem (latex coating) doesn't appeal to me, because if that stuff pools up aven a little bit, it won't cure for a long time. Either 1) your tank sits unused or 2) you fill it and get latex in your system, not to mention a hole in the coating. What about powder coating the inside. You don't have to spray directly at a surface to get it to stick you just have to get enough powder in the tank, turn on your electricals, rotate the tank or send in a small airstream to get the powder to coat the inside. Dump out the excess powder, turn off your electricals and throw it into an oven. This can be done at home, but don't use your cooking oven. There are a couple places on the net selling home/shop powder coating kits. HHMMM, darn I just painted my tank too. You'll lose the paintjob if you do this, but if you're repainting anyway...... What about the rust converter gel? It is just like Naval Jelly but this stuff turns the iron oxide into another more stable oxide. It turns rust into a black coating that won't grow. So it says on the can. I saw it at Autozone. Not sure what other preps or finishing is required though. We could give the inside a nickel plating. There is an electro-less nickel plating solution that works at room temperature. It is pretty cheap, but I'll look into what a gallon of this stuff costs. Fill tank about 1/4 full then rotate it for a few hours. You can do this at home as well. LaterZ Dash At 01:49 PM 4/24/00 +0100, Mark wrote:

>Anyone here ever try using cold gun blueing solution on the inside of >a tank? I think that may be the ticket. >Mark >B2 >A2

A2 - Da' Bomb No Longer Crashing for Beer Will wheelie for Virgin Oil

I was mistaken about the electro-less nickel plating. You have to heat the solution to "just off the boil". It plates at a rate of 1mil/hour and our application would require 0.7 to 1 mil. The 12.5 liter kit is like $300, buy a new tank when your old one rusts out on you for that cost. I did find another kit that will do the black oxide coating without the boiling water reaction halt. They recommend flushing with water to stop the reaction and then applying the penetrating sealer. Drain off the excess, let it dry and voila. I called them to talk about the residue and non-uniform coating issues but now I have a phone tag game to start up here soon. I'll keep you posted. If we put some in the tank and rotated it for a while I think it may work fine. This stuff only take up to 5 minutes to actually work. I can rotate by hand for 5 mintues. This might work.... Mark you're so smart... you inspire me to find the best alternatives. Oh yeah the kit is $25 and it might take two (making 1 gallon of solution) There's gotta be a cheaper way. LaterZ Dash At 12:18 PM 4/24/00 -0600, Dash Weeks wrote:

>I'm not quite sure you want to do that. I cold gun blue steel parts all >the time. After soaking you remove the part and then quench the reaction >with boiling water for 30 seconds, flushing over the surface. Then you >re-soak the part in gun oil (I do it overnight) when that is done, then you >wipe it with a rag. What comes off is what concerns me about using it in >the tank. You get a purple/black residue. If you didn't uniformly coat >the surface with solution then you get oxide chunks. Obviously in your >tank, you can't coat evenly, unless you fill it with solution, you can't >flush it properly for 30 seconds with boiling water and the water >displacement oiling treatment would be difficult. Then there's the wiping >part.... > >I did seriously consider doing it to my tank. the Kreem (latex coating) >doesn't appeal to me, because if that stuff pools up aven a little bit, it >won't cure for a long time. Either 1) your tank sits unused or 2) you fill >it and get latex in your system, not to mention a hole in the coating.

>We could give the inside a nickel plating. There is an electro-less nickel >plating solution that works at room temperature. It is pretty cheap, but >I'll look into what a gallon of this stuff costs. Fill tank about 1/4 full >then rotate it for a few hours. You can do this at home as well. > >LaterZ >Dash

A2 - Da' Bomb No Longer Crashing for Beer Will wheelie for Virgin Oil

At 1:00 PM -0600 4/24/2000, Dash Weeks wrote:

>I did find another kit that will do the black oxide coating without the >boiling water reaction halt. They recommend flushing with water to stop >the reaction and then applying the penetrating sealer. Drain off the >excess, let it dry and voila. I called them to talk about the residue and >non-uniform coating issues but now I have a phone tag game to start up here >soon. I'll keep you posted.

A few years ago, I did a re-blueing job on an old shotgun I have. I bought this kit from K-mart pretty cheaply (like about $8.00) and the results were good. I don't recall any boiling water phase in the operation. If I remember correctly, it was pretty much was a wipe-on, rinse-off process. I have a spare tank...maybe I'll play with it. Let me know if you dig up any info in your phone tagging. Mark B2 A2

Kurt Simpson wrote: [Kreem cleaning prep]

> That's it...I've shied away from using the Latex liner.

Why not? All the hardest work is done by this stage. My 600 tank was Kreem'd after some crash repairs years ago and is holding well. If the water can't get to the metal then the metal can't rust again.

> >From now on you need to keep the tank full with gas when it is in storage or > it will rust up real quick especially if you're in a humid climate.

If in a humid climate then going the whole Kreem process may be the more permanant way to go. Mister_T