klr250 (was "stolen a13, arcata ca")

[Brent Tegler]

I recommend following the KISS rule.... There is a tiny rubber O-ring on the shaft of the bolt that you will find when you take the bolt out. This is the lock bolt for the balancer adjuster mechanism and caused no harm when I completely took it out to replace the O-ring. When you take the bolt completely out oil will pour out of the crankcase so best to do this as part of an oil change or simply do what I did and that is to lean the bike the opposite way against a shed or something, have someone ready to stick their finger in the hole after you take the bolt out.... then take the O-ring off the bolt and replace it with a new one and then replace and tighten the bolt. It took me less than five minutes and fixed an oil leak that had been messing up my left foot for over six months!!! OH remember to buy a new O-ring first, they cost about 50 cents. Good luck, Brent Tengai rider, Fergus, Ontario. ________________________________ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Tumu Rock Sent: Tue 08/07/2008 10:27 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: OIl Leak --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , "terranova22" wrote:

> > KLR-ista, > Has anyone had the little bolt to the crankcase, that sits just

forward

> of the shifter leak? Oil seeps out, but only a small amount, after i > turn off the bike. It doesn't leak while running, so i can run it

for

> hours, and it only leaks when warm, and right after shutting off the > motor. I think i could live with this, but i had to take off the

skid

> plate, which became quite a sandy, greasy mess. This leaking bolt > screws directly into the crankcase, and will not tighten (stripped). > Any ideas? > thanks, > --Dan >

Definitely sounds like the idler lever bolt (doohickey adjuster bolt). If that's stripped or broken you've potentially got more problems than a leak. I'd say it's time to pull the covers and inspect. While you're at it, replace the o-ring and upgrade the doohickey if you haven't. da Vermonster [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dan Taylor]

Don, The bike is an '05, and yes, the doohickey was changed in '06 by Honda-Kawasaki of Hollywood (they were probably learning with my bike). Thanks for your advice; i'll consider all of the options you mentioned. Is this type of leak likely to get worse? Dan A18 R100GS

>Posted by: "Spike55"

Re%3A%20OIl%20Leak> spike55_bmw@... http://profiles.yahoo.com/spike55_bmw> spike55_bmw

>Tue Jul 8, 2008 4:02 am (PDT) >What yr bike? Have you or anyone else changed out the doohickey? If >it was changed out, they may have re-used the gaskets and that along >with the stripped bolt is allowing it to leak.

I guess you could remove those two side cases and then: 1.) heli-coil the stipped out hole; 2.) install new gaskets (paper with a built up silver coating on each side) and that would better fill the gap; 3.) use a liquid gasket material to better fill the gap; 4.) do nothing (always an option for annoying problems). Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "terranova22" wrote:

> > KLR-ista, > Has anyone had a leak from the little bolt to the crankcase, that sits

just forward

> of the shifter leak? Oil seeps out, but only a small amount, after i > turn off the bike. It doesn't leak while running, so i can run it

for

> hours, and it only leaks when warm, and right after shutting off the > motor. I think i could live with this, but i had to take off the

skid

> plate, which became quite a sandy, greasy mess. This leaking bolt > screws directly into the crankcase, and will not tighten (stripped). > Any ideas? > thanks, > --Dan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 8 Jul 2008 13:12:08 -0400 "Brent Tegler" writes:

> I recommend following the KISS rule.... > > There is a tiny rubber O-ring on the shaft of the bolt that you will > find when you take the bolt out. This is the lock bolt for the > balancer adjuster mechanism and caused no harm when I completely > took it out to replace the O-ring. > > When you take the bolt completely out oil will pour out of the > crankcase so best to do this as part of an oil change or simply do > what I did and that is to lean the bike the opposite way against a > shed or something, have someone ready to stick their finger in the > hole after you take the bolt out.... then take the O-ring off the > bolt and replace it with a new one and then replace and tighten the > bolt. It took me less than five minutes and fixed an oil leak that > had been messing up my left foot for over six months!!! > > OH remember to buy a new O-ring first, they cost about 50 cents. > > Good luck, Brent

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Brent, others, Isn't there a small washer on the end of the doohickey adjustment lock bolt? I think I'd be concerned that if I removed the bolt the washer might fall off the end and get loose in the engine. Maybe EagleMike is watching and will comment. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Smart Girls Secret Weapon Read Unbiased Beauty Product Reviews, Get Helpful Tips, Tricks and Sam http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7U3yByipcefmprYZhYITov7xXHlS76bUyCl11udEjXnRBR6/

[Brent Tegler]

Hi Jeff, You mentioned this a while back when I was dealing with this issue, I looked on the parts diagram and did not see any washer.... I have since taken the bolt out twice and have not had any issues.... It would still be good to get EagleMike to give his opinion... Cheers, Brent. ________________________________ From: Jeff Saline [mailto:salinej1@...] Sent: Tue 08/07/2008 4:00 PM To: Brent Tegler Cc: guymanbro@...; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: OIl Leak On Tue, 8 Jul 2008 13:12:08 -0400 "Brent Tegler" writes:

> I recommend following the KISS rule.... > > There is a tiny rubber O-ring on the shaft of the bolt that you will > find when you take the bolt out. This is the lock bolt for the > balancer adjuster mechanism and caused no harm when I completely > took it out to replace the O-ring. > > When you take the bolt completely out oil will pour out of the > crankcase so best to do this as part of an oil change or simply do > what I did and that is to lean the bike the opposite way against a > shed or something, have someone ready to stick their finger in the > hole after you take the bolt out.... then take the O-ring off the > bolt and replace it with a new one and then replace and tighten the > bolt. It took me less than five minutes and fixed an oil leak that > had been messing up my left foot for over six months!!! > > OH remember to buy a new O-ring first, they cost about 50 cents. > > Good luck, Brent

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Brent, others, Isn't there a small washer on the end of the doohickey adjustment lock bolt? I think I'd be concerned that if I removed the bolt the washer might fall off the end and get loose in the engine. Maybe EagleMike is watching and will comment. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Smart Girls Secret Weapon Read Unbiased Beauty Product Reviews, Get Helpful Tips, Tricks and Sam http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7U3yIowYlVLWPQWd3fYXI5amt2yCZSHHGEVkjZ6YpUUdSqm/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Darren]

are you refering to one of the cover bolts or the tension adjuster bolt that's supposed to have a rubberized cover over it? not to insult your intellegence just clarifying what you are saying. we don't need anymore super sensitive all caps attacks. ) klrdar --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "terranova22" wrote:

> > KLR-ista, > Has anyone had the little bolt to the crankcase, that sits just

forward

> of the shifter leak? Oil seeps out, but only a small amount,

after i

> turn off the bike. It doesn't leak while running, so i can run it

for

> hours, and it only leaks when warm, and right after shutting off

the

> motor. I think i could live with this, but i had to take off the

skid

> plate, which became quite a sandy, greasy mess. This leaking bolt > screws directly into the crankcase, and will not tighten

(stripped).

> Any ideas? > thanks, > --Dan >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Taylor" wrote:

> > Don, > The bike is an '05, and yes, the doohickey was changed in '06 by > Honda-Kawasaki of Hollywood (they were probably learning with my bike). > Thanks for your advice; i'll consider all of the options you

mentioned. Is

> this type of leak likely to get worse? > Dan > A18 > R100GS >

Dan, It does sound like there's a couple of issues. The balancer adjuster bolt is broken of the hole stripped. Usually the bolt breaks first. The bolt can't be removed though the outer cover to the outside, because the head that clamps against the washer and lever/doo is larger than the hole. The threads in the inner case are standard 6mm (1mm pitch). You'd need to pull the left side case (and all the stuff in the way), and then the rotor, then remove the inner case and have it helicoil. It'll take a lot longer to remove and re-install the parts than it will to helicoil. You'll likely need a new bolt and o-ring. If you need some coaching or other help feel free to give me a shout. And yupper, there is a washer under the head of the bolt - at least there's suppose to be. If the bolt broke where I think it did, the washer might have gone on a trip somewhere inside the engine..... I'd get it taken care of soon, and there is likely no adjustment lock on the balancer system. That bolt is only supposed to get 69 INCH-lbs...... all the best, Mike

[Spike55]

Could you confirm that you are taking about the idler bolt which is recessed in a well on the left side case and has a rubber plug over it "OR" are you talking about one of the numerous side case bolts but one down low? I've been thinking its just one of the side case bolts that was leaking. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Taylor" wrote:

> > Don, > The bike is an '05, and yes, the doohickey was changed in '06 by > Honda-Kawasaki of Hollywood (they were probably learning with my

bike).

> Thanks for your advice; i'll consider all of the options you

mentioned. Is

> this type of leak likely to get worse? > Dan > A18 > R100GS > > > > > > >Posted by: "Spike55" Re%3A%20OIl%20Leak> spike55_bmw@... > http://profiles.yahoo.com/spike55_bmw> spike55_bmw > > > >Tue Jul 8, 2008 4:02 am (PDT) > > >What yr bike? Have you or anyone else changed out the doohickey?

If

> >it was changed out, they may have re-used the gaskets and that

along

> >with the stripped bolt is allowing it to leak. > > I guess you could remove those two side cases and then: 1.) heli-

coil

> the stipped out hole; 2.) install new gaskets (paper with a built

up

> silver coating on each side) and that would better fill the gap;

3.)

> use a liquid gasket material to better fill the gap; 4.) do nothing > (always an option for annoying problems). > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In

DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com,

> "terranova22" > wrote: > > > > KLR-ista, > > Has anyone had a leak from the little bolt to the crankcase, that

sits

> just > forward > > of the shifter leak? Oil seeps out, but only a small amount,

after i

> > turn off the bike. It doesn't leak while running, so i can run it > for > > hours, and it only leaks when warm, and right after shutting off

the

> > motor. I think i could live with this, but i had to take off the > skid > > plate, which became quite a sandy, greasy mess. This leaking bolt > > screws directly into the crankcase, and will not tighten

(stripped).

> > Any ideas? > > thanks, > > --Dan > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "terranova22" wrote:

> > KLR-ista, > Has anyone had the little bolt to the crankcase, that sits just forward > of the shifter leak? Oil seeps out, but only a small amount, after i > turn off the bike. It doesn't leak while running, so i can run it for > hours, and it only leaks when warm, and right after shutting off the > motor. I think i could live with this, but i had to take off the skid > plate, which became quite a sandy, greasy mess. This leaking bolt > screws directly into the crankcase, and will not tighten (stripped). > Any ideas? > thanks, > --Dan >

I might have mis-understood which bolt. If it's one of the crankcase bolts, you'll still have to remove the outer case, and maybe the inner case to get the broken bolt out, and then helicoil the hole. The torque spec of 69 INCH-lbs would still be accurate. all the best, Mike

[jwflower53]

There's a beat up '99 klr250 for sale here (same paint scheme as my dear departed 650, sigh).  If the seller has a realistic view of its worth (maybe $300-500), it would be a fun project.  I'm not going far away on two wheels anytime soon, and the 650 was a lot of weight for a beginning dirt rider with no discernable talent for dirt riding.