2004 klr 650 for sale! $3,750

[Norm Keller]

You may wish to make pouches for spare tubes so that they can be carried low down where they aren't in the way. A section can be cut from an old rear tube to hold the spare front tube. Roll the ends of the tube outside as when rolling up pant legs, then buff the tube so that tire patching glue will adhere. Glue one end and clamp until set then recheck. Alternatively, use rubber based contact cement. Place the spare tube inside the pouch and glue the open end but make sure you squeeze as much air out as possible. A pouch can be made for a rear tube by cutting a section from a trailer tube which can be begged from a tire shop. The spare tube pouches can be stuffed down into the left side of most aftermarket engine guards. Mine are held in place by wrap ties and reside on the bike at all times. Just a suggestion, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Douglas Bouley]

Norm, "they" promised me that if I get this tire changed, I'll never have to do another one. Are "they" fibbing again? doug in dc -- who hears "their" voices say all sorts of things. Norm Keller wrote:

> You may wish to make pouches for spare tubes so that they can be carried low down where they aren't in the way. > > A section can be cut from an old rear tube to hold the spare front tube. Roll the ends of the tube outside as when rolling up pant legs, then buff the tube so that tire patching glue will adhere. > > Glue one end and clamp until set then recheck. Alternatively, use rubber based contact cement. > > Place the spare tube inside the pouch and glue the open end but make sure you squeeze as much air out as possible. > > A pouch can be made for a rear tube by cutting a section from a trailer tube which can be begged from a tire shop. > > The spare tube pouches can be stuffed down into the left side of most aftermarket engine guards. Mine are held in place by wrap ties and reside on the bike at all times. > > Just a suggestion, > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[Douglas Bouley]

Geez, Hugh. 8 holes! Heckuva a thing to tell a guy on his first tire change "Ya mean I'm gonna have to do this a lot???" But seriously, thank-you for the great detailed feedback. Saved and printed. I love the Murphy's idea. The bike will even smell all fresh and clean when I'm done... doug in dc grufrude wrote:

>> > > Doug, > > Had my first flat on my brand-new KLR last weekend at 390 miles on the > odo, 100 miles up into the mountains in an old mining camp -- picked > up a 3-inch nail in the rear tire. I levered the bike up onto an old > washtub that was lying around and (very luckily) found a plastic 5- > gallon bucket to hold the wheel while I worked on it. My tube had 8 > holes in in and I used up every patch I had (and had to cut a couple > in half to cover them all). I got the bike out of the mountains, but > it was a near thing . . . > > Based on my recent experience, I wouldn't worry much about a bead > breaker -- compared to the big street bikes I'm used to, the tire > comes off the KLR rim quite easily. Lay the tire/wheel on a five > gallon plastic bucket, take the valve out of the stem and I'd bet you > can simply pry the tire down from the rim easily with the levers. The > secret to getting the tire off the rim is to make sure that you have > the bead of the tire OPPOSITE the tire levers squished down into the > CENTER of the rim -- that way you have the most 'slack' in the bead > you are levering over the rim. > > I recommend AGAINT dish washing liquid -- that stuff can corrode the > rims. Get a bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap (a flax seed oil soap) from > your local grocery/discount store in the household cleaners section > and dilute that for lube. That is essentially the same stuff that > RuGlyde (real tire lube sold at NAPA) is made of and it works real > well. > > Dust the tube and the inside of the tire with talc (baby powder will > work well as long as it is TALC, not cornstarch -- check the > ingredient label) and put just enough air in the tube that it holds > its shape BEFORE you try to put it in the tire. > > Place the rim back on the five gallow plastic bucket, make sure the > tire is WARM (warm = flexible = GOOD), make sure the rotation arrow is > pointing the right way, lightly lube the rim and tire and work the > tire onto the rim, remembering to keep the bead in the center of the > rim to give you the slack to make sliding that last bit of bead over > the edge of the rim as easy as possible. Once you have one side on > the rim, put your slightly inflated, talc-dusted tube into the tire > and insert the valve stem into the hole in the rim, making sure the > tube is seated fully into the tire without any pinches, wrinkles or > folds. > > Almost done, but here is where you MUST be careful. You need to get > the tire over the rim WITHOUT pinching the tube (which will perforate > it), so pay attention to what you are doing and work slowly and in > SMALL steps. > > I always work TOWARDS the stem when seating the tire. Lube the rim > and bead, then slide the tire over the rim on the side opposite the > stem and, watching to be sure you don't catch and pinch the tube, push > as much of the tire over the rim as you can just using your hands. > Remember to keep the beads squished together in the CENTER of the rim > to give yourself as much slack as possible. Once you have got much of > the tire mounted as possible with hand pressure, CAREFULLY, using the > straight side of your tire irons, start prying the bead over the rim. > Use as little of the lever as you can -- you don't want to be poking > into the tube or piching the tube between the lever and the rim as you > lever the bead over the rim. > > It really helps to have four hands at this stage -- a couple of hands > to keep the already-mounted beads squished together in the center of > the rim, and a couple of hands to work the levers GRADUALLY toward > toward the stem. Right at the end you'll find yourself with your > knees bracing/balancing the rim under you while you are JUST about > ready for the last bit of bead to snap/slide over the rim next to the > valve stem and you'll be terrified that you are about to pinch the > tube just as you are almost done. THAT'S why I work toward the stem -- > at this last moment, I push the stem into the rim just a bit to > provide that little bit of clearance as I lever that last section of > bead over the rim and into place. > > Once the tire is in place, pull the stem all the way back out and air > up the tire, making sure the bead is seated evenly all the way around > the rim. Generally there is a little raised line all the way around > each side of the tire next to the rim that allows you to see that the > tire has seated evenly. > > I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions on the procedure; this is just > the way I've done it for the last forty-three years, but you know the > saying about old dogs and new tricks. Good luck and remember: take > your time, take small bites with your tire levers, and don't let > yourself get frustrated. Slow, calm, and steady gets the tire mounted > right. > > Hugh Kenny > Cheyenne Wyoming > > > >

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[Jim Priest]

> > make sure the rotation arrow is pointing the right way

THE most important part of those instructions! Don't ask me how I know... :\ Jim

[Douglas Bouley]

neat idea, especially for a field kit. I like to carry one of those itty-bitty squirt bottles w/ Windex for the face screen. Now it can do double-duty. tstephenson@... wrote:

>> > windex works very well for lubricating the tire. It is more slippery (slipperier?) than you would think. > > >

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[Douglas Bouley]

duly noted, sir! doug in dc - wondering what happens if you try to run one put on backwards (picturing the bike standing still and smoking as the front tire goes one way and the rear goes the other) Jim Priest wrote:

>>> make sure the rotation arrow is pointing the right way >>> > > THE most important part of those instructions! Don't ask me how I know... :\ > > Jim > > >

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[tlh]

Cheap way to get a reverse gear on a KLR?? albatross

----- Original Message ----- From: Douglas Bouley To: Jim Priest Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 12:58 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: tire changing duly noted, sir! doug in dc - wondering what happens if you try to run one put on backwards (picturing the bike standing still and smoking as the front tire goes one way and the rear goes the other) Jim Priest wrote: >>> make sure the rotation arrow is pointing the right way >>> > > THE most important part of those instructions! Don't ask me how I know... :\ > > Jim > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dave Svoboda]

At 07:24 PM 5/2/2007, Norm Keller wrote:

>Jeff posted: > >"Anyway, I turned the air demagnetizer on yesterday and purged the >compressor tank." > >Another tip is to have the tire deflated when installing the tire >and wheel onto the bike. The reason is that the tire is much lighter >without that 30 pounds of air.

Sorry, just catching up. Actually, on the Concours it helps a lot to have the rear deflated when installing, for clearance reasons. Well, it's pretty heavy full of air, too. Just wanted everyone to remember that within the next month, everyone should be changing their tires from winter air to summer air. Summer air improves traction, though at the cost of some tire wear. I like to use summer air year round, so I stock up in August right before they stop selling it. Stay away from the Canadian air. They don't label summer vs. winter air on the cans, and Canadian winter air can be disastrous. - Dave Svoboda, Sandy Eggo

[fjrcaptain]

This bike is ready to roll! Take a look at some pics: http://www.zeitz.us/KLR%20for%20sale.htm As the ads states, it's in great shape, a little over 7k miles, Doohicky mod done, helmet, rear bags, tail bag, CB radio included. Call if you need more information. Possibly can work out a "fly in, drive home" deal (standby pass available) to the Atlanta airport. I live about 30 mins away. Tel. numbers on the link, email brettz@... Thanks! Brett

[Douglas Bouley]

But maybe Jeff can 'splain what kind of air is used in airhead boxers... there is more lard than air in my boxers, fwiw. doug in dc - who may have had too much caffiene today Dave Svoboda wrote:

> At 07:24 PM 5/2/2007, Norm Keller wrote: > > >> Jeff posted: >> >> "Anyway, I turned the air demagnetizer on yesterday and purged the >> compressor tank." >> >> Another tip is to have the tire deflated when installing the tire >> and wheel onto the bike. The reason is that the tire is much lighter >> without that 30 pounds of air. >> > > Sorry, just catching up. > > Actually, on the Concours it helps a lot to have the rear deflated > when installing, > for clearance reasons. Well, it's pretty heavy full of air, too. > > Just wanted everyone to remember that within the next month, everyone should > be changing their tires from winter air to summer air. Summer air improves > traction, though at the cost of some tire wear. I like to use summer air year > round, so I stock up in August right before they stop selling it. > > Stay away from the Canadian air. They don't label summer vs. winter air on > the cans, and Canadian winter air can be disastrous. > > - Dave Svoboda, Sandy Eggo > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

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