four minutes (nklr)

[John Biccum]

You don't need to turn it up, just the normal 1 drop per minute or so is all you need to keep the chain clean. _____ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Doug Herr Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 10:53 AM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets

On Fri, 1 Sep 2006, Ronald Criswell wrote: > How good is the Scott Oiler riding in a lot of dust? Seems like oiled > like that would attract the dirt. Have not used one, so I could be wrong, but I think you just turn it up to full blast and it will add enough new oil to keep the chain clean via a high fling rate. -- Doug Herr doug@wombatz. com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

That has not been my experience. In Moab, on the Lolo Motorway, in Death Valley and on the Kettle Valley Railway the chain was automagically kept both clean and lubricated. I think that the constant drip of lube is washing away the grit and dust. _____ From: Ronald Criswell [mailto:roncriswell@...] Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 5:41 AM To: John Biccum Cc: 'Norm Keller'; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets How good is the Scott Oiler riding in a lot of dust? Seems like oiled like that would attract the dirt. Criswell

On Sep 1, 2006, at 1:57 AM, John Biccum wrote: The third school of thought might be to use a Scottoiler which cleans and lubes automagically. Just set it and forget it, fill it every 2nd time you fill the fuel tank. _____ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Norm Keller Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 5:19 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets Dennis posted: >Who, in their right mind, told you to use >WD40, to clean or lube your chain. Despite the disqualification in the first 1/2 of the above sentence, I thought that I'd still chime in. (VBG) WD40 is commonly used to clean "O" ring chains because it is a solvent which is not likely to affect the chain or "O" rings. Dirt caked into the "O" rings will abrade the rings and work past the rings. There are two schools of thought with regards to "O" ring chain maintenance: clean with a gentle solvent, or use a chain lube. The interesting aspect of the difference is that both get seemingly equal results. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

I am using chain saw bar oil, the cheapest brand that I can find. I don't have problems with sand and dirt sticking to the chain, even in dry dusty conditions. The best chain saw bar oil I have used is "Premium" brand and it is anything but a premium product. It was the no-name brand, I think it was about $0.89 a quart. I could not find it the last time I needed lube so had to buy the name brand stuff for almost $2 a quart. The more expensive bar oil had something in it to keep it flowing at colder temps and that addition makes it an inferior drive chain lube. I have a hard time getting the flow rate down to a drop a second with the expensive stuff. _____ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of E.L. Green Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 1:28 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Ronald Criswell wrote:

> How good is the Scott Oiler riding in a lot of dust? Seems like oiled > like that would attract the dirt.

Yeah, like with WD-40, it does attract the dirt. However, it's a light oil (basically ATF -- i.e., around 10W, a little thicker than the light machine oil that WD-40 leaves behind once the Stoddard solvent evaporates away but not by much) thus doesn't turn into the gummy paste that you get with the sticky chain lubes. Once you hit the street again, you turn up the oil flow for a while, and just as if you were spraying it with WD-40 it (eventually) flings all that dirt off and onto your luggage and license plate (HEH!) and leaves the chain nicely oily and clean again. -E [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

Maybe if you put the chain and the oil in the trunk of your car for 60K miles the chain will last 60K miles with that lube . I really don't think it makes much difference what lube you use on an O-Ring or X-Ring chain to keep the rings soft and pliable, and thus well sealed. I think the high mileage I see on the Scottoiler lubed chains is not so much a function of the lubricant but rather the technique: a slow constant drip. I suspect that if you stopped every minute or so and manually added a drop of lube to the chain you would probably get the same mileage out of a chain as I do. But since I would rather NOT stop every minute or so to lube the chain the Scottoiler seem like the way to go. _____ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jud Jones Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 8:45 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "kestrelfal" wrote:

> > http://www.schaeffe

http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/227_chain_lube.html> roil.com/specialty/227_chain_lube.html

>

So my chain will last 60,000 miles with this stuff? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ggranger]

Not sure if I mentioned this but, I have used wd40 to clean the chain with (only need to do this once-I bought my bike used) or I use Kerosene out of my parts washer. Then to lube the chain I use reguar 30 weight motor oil or and grade of motor oil I have left over. It lubes, cleans and protects all at once. It you do it right fling off is minimal. I used to use the expensive Bel-Ray Super clean but my chains would be covered with white gunky paste in no time, they looked like crap and wore out sooner than with the motor oil I use now. A paper towel with some motor oil on it takes the tiny amount of grime off. I then either use the paper towel to distribute the oil or a small 'hair color' bottle with fine tip to put oil on the orins on either side and then lube the rollers up the middle, wipe off excess with a paper towel and you are done. Chain looks good, sounds good, never gets any rust. A freind of mine was doing this and was getting 50% more chain life than me. He used 'used' motor oil from oil changes since he was so cheap. I don't mind spending $1 on a quart of oil that lasts 4 bikes a whole season. There that should keep this going a while more..... Gary -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Norm Keller Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 5:47 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets Chain lubrication warning! All listers should be aware of the extreme danger of using WD40 as a chain lubricant on shaft drive motorcycles! This is not recommended by any of the major manufacturers! Just thought you'd like to know, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ronald Criswell]

Thats OK, I just use it on my brake pads on my Concourse while trying to pop wheelies. Criswell

On Sep 1, 2006, at 4:46 PM, Norm Keller wrote: > Chain lubrication warning! > > All listers should be aware of the extreme danger of using WD40 as > a chain lubricant on shaft drive motorcycles! This is not > recommended by any of the major manufacturers! > > Just thought you'd like to know, > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Around my parts I can get winter and summer blend chain saw oil. I have used that also on my chain from a little pumper can, works good, but I stay away from the dirt with it on the chain, at least when its fresh and still wet. Starting to like the Scott oiler/whatever brand that simple oiler can be had, just for that reason. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote: > > I am using chain saw bar oil, the cheapest brand that I can find. I don't > have problems with sand and dirt sticking to the chain, even in dry dusty > conditions. > > The best chain saw bar oil I have used is "Premium" brand and it is > anything but a premium product. It was the no-name brand, I think it was > about $0.89 a quart. I could not find it the last time I needed lube so had > to buy the name brand stuff for almost $2 a quart. The more expensive bar > oil had something in it to keep it flowing at colder temps and that addition > makes it an inferior drive chain lube. I have a hard time getting the flow > rate down to a drop a second with the expensive stuff. > > > > _____ > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of E.L. Green > Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 1:28 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Chains & Sprockets > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, > Ronald Criswell > wrote: > > How good is the Scott Oiler riding in a lot of dust? Seems like oiled > > like that would attract the dirt. > > Yeah, like with WD-40, it does attract the dirt. However, it's a light > oil (basically ATF -- i.e., around 10W, a little thicker than the > light machine oil that WD-40 leaves behind once the Stoddard solvent > evaporates away but not by much) thus doesn't turn into the gummy > paste that you get with the sticky chain lubes. Once you hit the > street again, you turn up the oil flow for a while, and just as if you > were spraying it with WD-40 it (eventually) flings all that dirt off > and onto your luggage and license plate (HEH!) and leaves the chain > nicely oily and clean again. > > -E > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[dooden]

Kurt !!! Damnit... quit telling my story before it happens... I know but for $15 it stops that awful sounds that you describe that are currently happening with the OEM chain. At least until snowfall I hope. OEM 7700 miles, cheapy 0 miles, headed out this morning to install I hope. Next bike will have to be one that just cannot do wheelies I reckon, cause I want a shaft drive someday. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Krgrife@... wrote: > > > In a message dated 9/1/2006 5:09:26 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > USA1911A1@... writes: > > I for one will be very interested in your experience with el cheapo. Please > let us hear from later on. > > > <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> As one who had to live with those chains back in the day when you just went > to your local hardware store and picked up the appropriate length for a few > bucks I can give a preview of the answer. The chain will be noisy and no > matter how well you lube it or with what it will get noisier and wear at a rapid > rate. It will get tight spots and loose spots and be difficult to adjust > after a few miles. Modern chains are one of the great advances in motorcycling > and well worth the money. I have no fond memories of those old style chains > for street use. Racing where you throw it away after every event is a > different matter. I started using "O" ring chains in the 70's and now use DID > X-ring and I think in the long run its cheaper. I have never had a modern chain > come apart on me and that was not an unusual occurrence with the old style > chains. > Kurt > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Don S]

Well, it seems the chain lube debate is heating up again. For the benefit of the group, I would like to provide the results of my secret testing of a lubrication system similar to the Scott oiler but considerably simpler to install and maintain. The device is a ten inch strip of ( don't laugh) side bacon with the rind or hide on. The piece should be approximately an inch wide by an in thick. Note, thickness can be increased for longer rides. Drill two holes into one end of the bacon strip through the rind and fasten it rind side up with zip-ties to the rear of the chain guard and allow the bacon to hang down making contact with the rear sprocket and chain. Depending on your riding style and speed, you may want to use a meat pen to draw lines onto the thickness of the bacon to use as a wear guage. As the sprocket/chain wear into the bacon strip, the lines will indicate how much lube you have left. So far, the results have been very good. I must however, warn you that riding remote trails at slow speed in bear country may cause handling problems. Also, crows, sea gulls, skunks and vultures tend to be attracted to the bike. In addition to that, I occasionally have had the odd dog become more than affectionate with my left leg. Even with these minor drawbacks, the benefits are certainly there. Give it a shot. Don Jud Jones wrote:

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Holm wrote: > > Who, in their right mind, told you to use WD40, to clean or lube your chain. WD40 is > mostly a solvent and will disolve the lube packed in an "O" ring chain that > you bike came with. The proper way to care for an 'O' ring chain is to wash the dirt off > the outside of the chain with a rag and soap and water. Let it air dry. Apply an approved 'O' ring chain lube such as Silkolene Semi-Synthetic Chain & Sprcket Lubricant. If your chain died at 8600, it is because of using WD40! This is pure b*llsh*t. --------------------------------- All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dennis Holm]

Makes a lot more sense than using WD-40. It would definately drive my Cholocate Lab over the edge! Bigdroptwo Don S wrote: Well, it seems the chain lube debate is heating up again. For the benefit of the group, I would like to provide the results of my secret testing of a lubrication system similar to the Scott oiler but considerably simpler to install and maintain. The device is a ten inch strip of ( don't laugh) side bacon with the rind or hide on. The piece should be approximately an inch wide by an in thick. Note, thickness can be increased for longer rides. Drill two holes into one end of the bacon strip through the rind and fasten it rind side up with zip-ties to the rear of the chain guard and allow the bacon to hang down making contact with the rear sprocket and chain. Depending on your riding style and speed, you may want to use a meat pen to draw lines onto the thickness of the bacon to use as a wear guage. As the sprocket/chain wear into the bacon strip, the lines will indicate how much lube you have left. So far, the results have been very good. I must however, warn you that riding remote trails at slow speed in bear country may cause handling problems. Also, crows, sea gulls, skunks and vultures tend to be attracted to the bike. In addition to that, I occasionally have had the odd dog become more than affectionate with my left leg. Even with these minor drawbacks, the benefits are certainly there. Give it a shot. Don Jud Jones wrote:

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Holm wrote: > > Who, in their right mind, told you to use WD40, to clean or lube your chain. WD40 is > mostly a solvent and will disolve the lube packed in an "O" ring chain that > you bike came with. The proper way to care for an 'O' ring chain is to wash the dirt off > the outside of the chain with a rag and soap and water. Let it air dry. Apply an approved 'O' ring chain lube such as Silkolene Semi-Synthetic Chain & Sprcket Lubricant. If your chain died at 8600, it is because of using WD40! This is pure b*llsh*t. --------------------------------- All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]