how much clearance between front fender and frame? steering fee

[dooden]

I always run an engine before dumping the oil, same reason, by running the engine it has any small particles suspended within the oil and drains out the plug hole. I also always pour some oil in with the drain plug out to flush the case. Obviously only if the oil is already onhand and extra. 1/2 qt left over from last change or whatever. If you have clear flowing oil after adding a little extra, chances are the case is flushed clean. ( like adding oil to a drained fork and compressing before dumping the second time) Just my $.02 Duden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "hens_p" wrote: > RM: > > BAck in my mini bike days, somebody told me to always change oil > while the engine was hot. The theory was that it helped remove the > sludge with the oil. > > Anybody got any comments on that? > > Pat > > > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote: > > Let the bike sit overnight and 90% of the oil in the filter cavity > will > > drain back into the sump. Much less messy.

[RM]

On Thu, 18 Apr 2002, hens_p wrote:

>BAck in my mini bike days, somebody told me to always change oil while >the engine was hot. The theory was that it helped remove the sludge >with the oil. > >Anybody got any comments on that?

I've heard that argument before. If the oil has been changed with any reasonable regularity and the engine is healthy, there won't be anything *TO* settle out of the oil. I do it when the bike is cold because I can be assured that all of the oil has drained back into the sump. If there is any sediment in the sump, you have problems that are much more severe than whether or not the oil was drained hot vs cold. RM

[Devon Jarvis]

The height of the knobs complicates this- I think the carcass is smaller diameter, but the knobs stick up further. Also, the K270 has a flatter, wider profile and more knobs grab the pavement, slowing the steering. The Pirelli MT21 has a rounder, narrower section. The steering is noticeably quicker as well. Truth is I like the way it handles below 70. Maybe I'll just leave it and save mysaelf some speeding tickets. I rode my friends brand-new R1 last night. Still on break-in, 6000rpm rev limit (full redline is 12,000). Even just off idle, absolutely shocking power, light steering, a featherweight clutch pull, and one or two finger brakes. Tiny and compact, heavier than the KLR but smaller and feels lighter. Absolutely perfect, just as it rolls off the assembly line. That will be totally insane when the motor is run-in. If I owned it, they'd have to give me my own reserved parking spot outside the jail. Devon A15 Walter Lesnowich wrote:

> > > I replaced the Kenda K270 front with a Pirelli MT21 last night, and now > > the bike starts to weave at around 75-80mph. I didn't change anything > > else, so it's down to the tire I guess. Oh well. > > > > Devon > > > > If the new tire is smaller in diameter than the old tire try going > down one notch or two on the rear preload. > > If the new tire is larger in diameter than the old tire try going > up one notch or two on the rear preload. > > Walt > A14 "War Horse"

[monahanwb]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote:

> > I've heard that argument before. If the oil has been changed with

any

> reasonable regularity and the engine is healthy, there won't be

anything

> *TO* settle out of the oil. I do it when the bike is cold because

I can

> be assured that all of the oil has drained back into the sump. > > If there is any sediment in the sump, you have problems that are

much more

> severe than whether or not the oil was drained hot vs cold.

Another reason to do it when cold is that the aluminum threads won't strip so easily, and will come apart a little easier too.