fix your speedometer drive

[Ryan Newman]

Well, I did all my calculations for my valves by hand. I went and bought the BMW K-bike shims in the correct sizes. But after I got the cams back on, my clearance was not what it should have been. I even rotated the crank several times to squeeze out the oil under the shim. One of them had way too much clearance, and one had too little. So I swapped the shims, and now they are better. I quadruple-checked my measurements before I did the calculations. Does this happen normally, mis-calculation? Ryan

[jlyonamf]

Ryan: I sounds like you had a frustrating day, just chalk it up as a learning experience, we all have these days. For some reason this post sent up a red flag for me. What were you measurements for each valve before you took the shims out? What shims sizes were in each location? What size BMW shims did you use at each location and what was your final clearance measurement at each location? John

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ryan Newman" wrote: > Well, I did all my calculations for my valves by hand. I went and bought the > BMW K-bike shims in the correct sizes. But after I got the cams back on, my > clearance was not what it should have been. I even rotated the crank several > times to squeeze out the oil under the shim. One of them had way too much > clearance, and one had too little. So I swapped the shims, and now they are > better. I quadruple-checked my measurements before I did the calculations. > Does this happen normally, mis-calculation? > Ryan

[ryanwow2000]

Just to commiserate, I suppose: a similar thing happened on my recent valve adjustment, one valve ended up juuuust out of spec (on the loose end), a couple of tics from where I measured it to. I'm a lazy bastard so I left it and made plans to do the next check early. Don't have any answers as to why it came out this way though... just commiserating I guess Ryan B A12

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ryan Newman" wrote: > Well, I did all my calculations for my valves by hand. I went and bought the > BMW K-bike shims in the correct sizes. But after I got the cams back on, my > clearance was not what it should have been. I even rotated the crank several > times to squeeze out the oil under the shim. One of them had way too much > clearance, and one had too little. So I swapped the shims, and now they are > better. I quadruple-checked my measurements before I did the calculations. > Does this happen normally, mis-calculation? > Ryan

[Ryan Newman]

> I sounds like you had a frustrating day, just chalk it up as a > learning experience, we all have these days.

I'm really good with tools and all, but yesturday was not a good day for me. Much more cursing than I had originally planned As far as the shims went, I thought it was odd. One of the shims was right in the middle of spec, so I left it alone. But when I put it back in, tightened the caps, and remeasured it, the clearance was now at the top end of the spectrum. Very odd. Here's what I had: Exhaust: .127 (2.75) L .102 (2.80) R Intake: .127 (2.60) L .152 (2.65) R So I replaced them with: Exhaust: (2.65) L (But this was way too tight @ .127) (2.80) R (Just fine @ .203) Intake: (2.55) L (this was way too loose @ about .223) (2.65) R (I left this one alone, but now the clearance was almost .203, not the .152) So I then I swapped the L intake and the L exhaust and I got: Exhaust: (2.55) L .203 (Jumped 2X as many shim sizes, but not 2X the clearance as R side) (2.70) R .203 Intake: (2.60) L .152 ( same shim that I started with, but now has more clearance?!?!) (2.65) R .178 (same shim that I started with, but now has more clearance?!?!) I did all my calcs correctly, but I'm not feeling too confident about the job. Any ideas? Ryan

[Devon Jarvis]

As long as you're sure your reassembly was OK then don't worry too much. A bit of cotton fiber from a cloth rag, a speck of dirt, anything like this caught under the shim will affect the clearance. You need to be extremely clean around the cams in general, they are about the ONLY plain bearings in the entire motor (except for the rod small end) and are very sensitive to dust, grit, and oil starvation. And you want to have clean hands when you're handling the shims. The shims I got from Fred had an anti-corrosive coating which might have been .0005 thick or more, I cleaned the shims with WD40 before I put them in. I just used the table in the manual, that seemed to work OK. Also, since I was measuring with fractional feelers I figured that .05mm is close enough to .002" to figure out the new shim size. I did check the shims I was removing or installing with a precision caliper gauge- I remember getting one that was a size smaller than marked. Devon Ryan Newman wrote:

> > > I sounds like you had a frustrating day, just chalk it up as a > > learning experience, we all have these days. > > I'm really good with tools and all, but yesturday was not a good day for me. > Much more cursing than I had originally planned As far as the shims > went, I thought it was odd. One of the shims was right in the middle of > spec, so I left it alone. But when I put it back in, tightened the caps, and > remeasured it, the clearance was now at the top end of the spectrum. Very > odd. Here's what I had: > Exhaust: > .127 (2.75) L > .102 (2.80) R > Intake: > .127 (2.60) L > .152 (2.65) R > > So I replaced them with: > Exhaust: > (2.65) L (But this was way too tight @ .127) > (2.80) R (Just fine @ .203) > Intake: > (2.55) L (this was way too loose @ about .223) > (2.65) R (I left this one alone, but now the clearance was almost .203, not > the .152) > > So I then I swapped the L intake and the L exhaust and I got: > Exhaust: > (2.55) L .203 (Jumped 2X as many shim sizes, but not 2X the clearance as R > side) > (2.70) R .203 > Intake: > (2.60) L .152 ( same shim that I started with, but now has more > clearance?!?!) > (2.65) R .178 (same shim that I started with, but now has more > clearance?!?!) > > I did all my calcs correctly, but I'm not feeling too confident about the > job. Any ideas? > Ryan

[Bogdan Swider]

> One of the shims was right in the middle of > spec, so I left it alone. But when I put it back in, tightened the caps, > and > remeasured it, the clearance was now at the top end of the spectrum. Very > odd. >

Just so I understand. The clearance was in the middle of spec ? Therefore why did you take it out ? To measure the shim itself and see if it measured as it was labeled ? Did you rotate the engine a few times to see if the cam pressed it in ? By top end of the spectrum do you mean that the clearance was wide ? If it was wider after removal and reinstallation did you perhaps mix it up with another shim ? Did you torque down the cam caps ? Ryan, you're in Canada; you guys have been metric since Trudeau. When it comes to valves most of us find it easier to think in inches though it's a metric motorcycle. The intake range is .004-.008; the exhaust .006-.010 inches. The shims come in increments of .002. So...when you went from 265 to 255 you went .004 more loose or all the way through the range; of course it was way too loose. Also, if you didn't already do so, as I said I'm confused by your post, many people measure each shim to spec as they are sometimes on the margins of tolerance and thus may result it readings you don't expect. Bogdan

> Here's what I had: > Exhaust: > .127 (2.75) L > .102 (2.80) R > Intake: > .127 (2.60) L > .152 (2.65) R > > So I replaced them with: > Exhaust: > (2.65) L (But this was way too tight @ .127) > (2.80) R (Just fine @ .203) > Intake: > (2.55) L (this was way too loose @ about .223) > (2.65) R (I left this one alone, but now the clearance was almost .203, > not > the .152) > > So I then I swapped the L intake and the L exhaust and I got: > Exhaust: > (2.55) L .203 (Jumped 2X as many shim sizes, but not 2X the clearance as R > side) > (2.70) R .203 > Intake: > (2.60) L .152 ( same shim that I started with, but now has more > clearance?!?!) > (2.65) R .178 (same shim that I started with, but now has more > clearance?!?!) > > I did all my calcs correctly, but I'm not feeling too confident about the > job. Any ideas? > Ryan > > > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >

[Ryan Newman]

> Just so I understand. The clearance was in the middle of spec ? Therefore > why did you take it out ? To measure the shim itself and see if it

measured

> as it was labeled ? Did you rotate the engine a few times to see if the

cam

> pressed it in ? By top end of the spectrum do you mean that the clearance > was wide ? If it was wider after removal and reinstallation did you

perhaps

> mix it up with another shim ? Did you torque down the cam caps ?

Yes, middle of spec. I took it out because I had originally planned on putting it a tad bit more towards the higher (wide) end since I was in there anyways. I rotated the engine a few times before I did the measurements, and a few times after I did the swap.

> Ryan, you're in Canada; you guys have been metric since Trudeau. When it > comes to valves most of us find it easier to think in inches though it's a > metric motorcycle.

Actyally, I live in Phoenix, Arizona, not Canada. But, since it's a metric motorcycle, I'm using metric. The shims are all in metric, so it's easier to keep it all that way. I had told the guy at the BMW shop that the shims were supposed to be available in increments of .002, he was like, "what, they only come in .005 increments". I don't see why you guys would want to convert back and forth from metric to SAE, seems as it would add extra hassle, and a chance to get it wrong. Just my thinking though. Others have said that some shims are not the correct spec to begin with, and that some wear over time. So I'm not too worried about it. But the bike is still mostly apart, so I could always go back in there easily. Ryan

[PhantomRider3@aol.com]

Your BMW guy is WRONG! (I love saying that) Shims are avail. in .05 mm increment NOT .005. Maybe you just did a typo. Now class let review... .002 inches or .05 mm are the shim incriments (increments? I kan't sphell verie guud). Now if only I could find where to put the gas in I'd be all set. Phantom Rider Beverly, MA (about 25 miles north of Boston, on the coast) 1985 BMW K100 RS (80,000 miles) 1972 Yamaha CT1 175 (3,000+ miles, currently with some "issues") 2000 Kawasaki KLR 650 (more fun than I probably should be having) Toss me an email to to purchase the soon to be famous KLR valve adjustment VIDEO. Only 24.00, Ah bahgin (MA speak for a great deal). You can see stills from the actual video and all my nutty crazy mods at http://2wheelerjay.tripod.com/jaysworldofinvention/

[Ryan Newman]

> Shims are avail. in .05 mm increment NOT .005. Maybe you just did a typo.

That was my typing error. Ryan

[marcclarke@unforgettable.com]

Ryan, Did you use a micrometer to actually measure the actual sizes of the original shims and the new shims, or did you just believe what was written on them? -- Marc, KLR650 A12

> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2002 16:45:13 -0700 > From: "Ryan Newman" > Subject: Valve shims > > Well, I did all my calculations for my valves by hand. I went and

bought the

> BMW K-bike shims in the correct sizes. But after I got the cams back

on, my

> clearance was not what it should have been. I even rotated the crank

several

> times to squeeze out the oil under the shim. One of them had way too

much

> clearance, and one had too little. So I swapped the shims, and now

they are

> better. I quadruple-checked my measurements before I did the

calculations.

> Does this happen normally, mis-calculation? > Ryan