engineers - you gotta love 'em.

DSN_KLR650
Mike Frey
Posts: 833
Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 10:53 am

engineers - you gotta love 'em.

Post by Mike Frey » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:46 pm

 

>> Martin Earle (or maybe it was Norm) posted:

 

>> If I had seen this

earlier, I could have gone across town to the bmw dealer and asked them
>> what the thinnest

shim available/used on the F650; as well as the (I believe this is right) Ford Tarus SHO.  

 

Since both the V8 SHO and KLR sat side by side in my garage at some point in the recent past, I know that the valve shims are interchangeable. Looking at them, the SHO shim has a small hole in it, this is to help remove it with compressed air. Otherwise, having been around both engines, I know that people have used one engine's shim in another - SHO into KLR, or KLR into SHO.

 

If my (limited) knowledge is correct:

KLR has a 29mm diameter valve shim

Taurus V8 SHO has a 29mm valve shim

A lot of other Kawasaki engines use 29mm shims.

A lot of Yamahas use 29mm shims

A lot of Suzukis use 29.5mm shims = DON'T TRY TO USE THEM!

 

(see Note 1) Minimum shim thickness available off the shelf is 2.00mm for the KLR, if I read the part number list correctly

 

Min shim thickness for the SHO is greater than that - something like 2.40mm and goes up in thickness from there.

- The thinnest SHO shim is thicker than the thinnest KLR shim

- The thickest SHO shim is thicker than the thickest KLR shim

(Hey, a tongue twister!)

 

Note 1 - the most important supposition. I would be leery of grinding or sanding down a 2mm shim, although I guess .025mm to .050mm less is a very small amount. Usually, when you reach the lower end of needed shim thickness, it's an indication that the valves have worn ell into the seat and the head that you should be looking further inside the engine.

 

I've seen lots of guys with precision surface grinders take a shim and grind a couple thousandths (inch) off of it when they didn't have the size they wanted.

 

Big difference between the V8 SHO and the KLR is that after reading about 100 reviews from SHO people who always said "No valve adjustment needed after 80K, 100K, 120K miles, everyone stopped checking them because no one was adjusting them unless they had the engine apart for something, or were replacing a cam or a valve.

 

If I have made any glaring errors above, please correct me!

 

Mike

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Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

nklr: most reliable motorcycle

Post by Norm Keller » Sun Apr 12, 2015 2:48 pm

#ygrps-yiv-1927635141 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1927635141cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1927635141cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 .ygrps-yiv-1927635141plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 .ygrps-yiv-1927635141plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1927635141 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 .ygrps-yiv-1927635141plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1927635141 .ygrps-yiv-1927635141plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} A friend has a DR350 and I'm very impressed. It might be the next step once the KLR becomes too much....which it already is but won't yet admit that.  ;-)

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