extra frame circa 2004 from military

[RobertWichert]

That was great info... But regarding the needle swinging, I would say that swinging between 11:00 and 1:00 is normal. It will go down when you are riding faster and getting more wind than the fan can push and it will go up when you slow down or stop. On my bike 1:00 is about where the fan is running on the high side. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 9/24/2013 7:56 AM, achesley43@... wrote:

Oiay., just for grins, I started my bike up from cold and run it till the fan was regulating the temperature of the coolant. A 50/50 mixture put in fresh last year. Start with 1 at the far left at start up and 6 to where the temp flag is just starting to show on the left side of the needle or about 12:30 on the gauge. Done the readings as close as I could to keeping the numbers evenly spaced. 1 = 81F 2 = 123F 3 = 151F 4 = 181F 5 and dead center and first time the fan came on. = 195.5F 6 = 205F. These temps were taken with the Bike at an 1100 idle on the centerstand using an infrared temp gun I used to use for compressor cylinder readings back in the days when I was compressor mechanic. Temps shot right at the side of the temp sending unit at the bottom of the radiator. The engine stayed between 204 and 206 with the fan coming on and off for the 10 minutes I left it running at this setting. I would think that the coolant temp would be no more than 210F at the 1 o'clock position. Now remember, this is not a lab test. just an information basics for inquiring minds. LOL! .;

---In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, cloudnine233@... wrote: Hey,

OK - finally got all my baselining done (or most of it). So, I went riding yesterday. Bike felt great, nice balance, easy power, not touchy ride, steering, braking, etc

I rode at fairly low speeds been 25 years since I have been on a bike on the street., even some time spent just bonding practicing in a big parking lot.

Here s the question Is it common for the temp to swing from 11:00 to 1:00 fairly easily? I flushed/changed coolant and even added some WaterWetter.

Bike is a 2002 KLR 650 w/6300 miles and virtually stock. All I have done are fluids, tires, pads.

Thanks

[b][i]Stu[/i][/b]

[b][i]o#>o[/i][/b]

[b][i] [/i][/b]

[Jeff Saline]

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A 50/50 mixture put in fresh last year.  Start with 1 at the far left at start up and 6 to where the temp flag is just starting to show on the left side of the needle or about 12:30 on the gauge. Done the readings as close as I could to keeping the numbers evenly spaced.  1 = 81F  2 = 123F  3 = 151F   4 = 181F  5 and dead center and first time the fan came on. = 195.5F  6 =  205F.    These temps were taken with the Bike at an 1100 idle  on the centerstand using an infrared temp gun I used to use for compressor cylinder readings back in the days when I was compressor mechanic.  Temps shot right at the side of the temp sending unit at the bottom of the radiator.   The engine stayed between 204 and 206 with the fan coming on and off for the 10 minutes I left it running at this setting.   I would think that the coolant temp would be no more than 210F at the 1 o'clock position.   Now remember, this is not a lab test. just an information basics for inquiring minds.  LOL!  .; <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   Now do the same test and also check the top and bottom of the radiator and see what the temps are in those locations.   The top of the radiator will show the coolant temp going into the radiator (exiting the head/stat) and the bottom will show the coolant exit temp.  The difference is how much heat the radiator is shedding.  It also will be the difference in coolant temperature going into the bottom of the cylinder and stealing heat from around the combustion chamber.  The smaller the change in this area the better.  This is what Luc is referring to in an earlier post.  The T-Bob has the by-pass which adds coolant exiting the head (before the stat) to the coolant pump inlet.  This helps stabilize the coolant temp around the cylinder.  When the stat opens it allows coolant from the radiator to also enter the coolant pump inlet.  The T-Bob operation is a very well designed and thought out system.  It just flat out works!   If you google Wattman and Thermo-Bob you should be able to find his website.  A quick look there will show some very interesting data on the KLR cooling system.  He shared a lot of that data with this list back in 2005/6.   Wattman also sells a temperature gauge overlay that is calibrated for the KLR instrument cluster.  I have one of the first ones he sold, again offered on this list, back in fall of 2005 if I recall correctly.  That was for a Gen I KLR.  I don't know if he sells them for Gen II KLRs.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Do THIS before eating carbs (every time)[/b] 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage info.fixyourbloodsugar.com

[nakedwaterskier]

I will trade for loan of doohickey tools...come get it Tarzana LA, CA, USA