cheaper front brake lever????

[Jud]

Your post comes as a huge relief. I know there are fans of the 16t around, but we just weren't hearing from them. I was starting to get a bit uneasy at the unanimity. But "as tingly as a CB350"? Like I said... Your rationale is one I hadn't heard before: "Low gear is too tall as it is, so what the hell, let's gear it up." Now it's my turn to spit coffee.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "notanymoore" wrote: > > I almost snorted my coffee when I read the phrase "it doesn't have any vibration to speak of". Of course it does; judging from past rides it's about as tingly as my old Honda CB 350/360 twins. > > What gearing you like depends on the use you're putting your KLR to. I'm an "all day" backroads wanderer with occasional forays off into firetrails and 2-tracks. You have to feather the clutch with a 16 tooth sure. But the KLR 1st gear is overtall for any kind of serious offroading unless you go to a 13 tooth front sprocket. > > But then I would have to ask why. The KLR is just too big and heavy with too many breakables to be doing whoop-de-doos in Baja. And the roadbike plastic sure doesn't lend itself to that type of riding (the one feature pre-2008 bikes are superior IMHO). > > The type of riding some of the 13-14 tooth guys (sprocket, that is) describe here I would think of doing only on an air-cooled 250. Otherwise, I'd only have 14 teeth. > > I always thought of the KLR as a "go anywhere" bike, not a dirt bike. If I were riding in a 3rd world country, stock gearing or lower and knobbies might make sense. > > I live east of the Mississippi; most of the roads are paved or hard gravel. A 16 tooth sprocket and Bridgestone Trailwings do just fine. But fording streams, splashing thru mudpits or grinding thru sandtraps? I'll get a KLX250. > > And I don't like riding in the city.... if it made that much difference in city riding; I'd get a CVT scooter. > > The real problem is what I've always stated; as a compromise bike, KLR's 1st gear is too tall; 5th gear too low; and carburation limiting an otherwise very good engine. A real model upgrade would ba a 6-speed geabox and EFI; now THAT would be one dynamite go-anywhere package. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud" wrote: > > > > > > Tall gearing is great on the right bike. The KLR is not the right bike. First of all, it doesn't have any vibration to speak of. Not compared to a big Brit single whose grips get as big as baseball bats any time the revs get within 20 degrees of the red line. Second, it has the aerodynamics of a barn door. Even with a tail wind it's not going to pull red line on 16/43, and with stock gearing it will probably run faster in fourth. > > > > A taller gear on this bike just narrows its focus. It may feel a little calmer droning down the freeway at 75 or 80, but it will be worse at everything else. Like pottering along those nice 45-50 mph roads. Like running around town. Like cruising those 2-tracks and fire roads this bike seems made for. > > > > With the upright riding position, I don't really care to spend a lot of time over 65 anyway, so I see no point in setting it up to run there at the expense of everything else it does so well. > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "notanymoore" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I have the same problem. Always hunting between 4th and 5th with the 16 tooth sprocket on roads with 35-45 MPH speed limits. Just try to not lug the engine. The tradeoff in ride improvement at higher speeds is worth it IMO. > > > > > > Since most of my driving is higher speed, I've actually found the KLR is easier on oil with the extra tooth. KLR oil consumption seems to go up dramatically at prolonged speeds over 65 MPH with the 15 tooth. There seems to be a dropoff after a certain RPM level. > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Craig Kahler wrote: > > > > > > > > I want to keep my 16T front sprocket for highway riding, but many of the roads I ride are to slow for 5th gear. > > > > Does alot of riding around in 4th gear cause extra wear on the transmission? > > > > Craig Kahler > > > > > > > > > >

[Craig Kahler]

Thanks to everyone for the input. It appears unanimous that it causes no harm to ride in 4th. With a 16T front sprocket, I will no longer view the KLR as having a 5 speed trany, but a 4 speed with overdrive, only shifting into overdrive when doing 50+mph. Craig Kahler

--- On [b]Thu, 5/13/10, Jeff Khoury [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: Jeff Khoury Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th To: "roncriswell@..." Cc: "Jud" , "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Thursday, May 13, 2010, 10:54 AM   Ron, I agree. I ran a 16 for a few months and I went back to the 15. While it was more comfotable over 75, it sucked all of the delicious torque out of the bike. It made 1st way too tall and I actually ended up using more fuel because I was constantly having to apply more throttle to maintain speed up hills and against the wind. - Jeff Khoury On May 12, 2010, at 5:50 PM, "roncriswell@ sbcglobal. net" wrote: > I'm with you Jud. I see no reason to go to a 16. I have heard it > sucks against a strong wind. My KLR cruises just fine at 80 > indicated and sometimes 85. I have done this all day long in summer > heat. It never complains and mine doesn't shake much. > > > Criswell > On May 12, 2010, at 5:47 PM, Jud wrote: > >> >> >> Tall gearing is great on the right bike. The KLR is not the right >> bike. First of all, it doesn't have any vibration to speak of. Not >> compared to a big Brit single whose grips get as big as baseball >> bats any time the revs get within 20 degrees of the red line. >> Second, it has the aerodynamics of a barn door. Even with a tail >> wind it's not going to pull red line on 16/43, and with stock >> gearing it will probably run faster in fourth. >> >> A taller gear on this bike just narrows its focus. It may feel a >> little calmer droning down the freeway at 75 or 80, but it will be >> worse at everything else. Like pottering along those nice 45-50 mph >> roads. Like running around town. Like cruising those 2-tracks and >> fire roads this bike seems made for. >> >> With the upright riding position, I don't really care to spend a >> lot of time over 65 anyway, so I see no point in setting it up to >> run there at the expense of everything else it does so well. >> >> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "notanymoore" >> wrote: >> > >> > >> > >> > I have the same problem. Always hunting between 4th and 5th with >> the 16 tooth sprocket on roads with 35-45 MPH speed limits. Just >> try to not lug the engine. The tradeoff in ride improvement at >> higher speeds is worth it IMO. >> > >> > Since most of my driving is higher speed, I've actually found the >> KLR is easier on oil with the extra tooth. KLR oil consumption >> seems to go up dramatically at prolonged speeds over 65 MPH with >> the 15 tooth. There seems to be a dropoff after a certain RPM level. >> > >> > >> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Craig Kahler wrote: >> > > >> > > I want to keep my 16T front sprocket for highway riding, but >> many of the roads I ride are to slow for 5th gear. >> > > Does alot of riding around in 4th gear cause extra wear on the >> transmission? >> > > Craig Kahler >> > > >> > >> > >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote:

> > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng

Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:

> > Richard, > > If you're going to swap them around a lot, why go through all the effort of changing the rear sprocket (Removing the wheel, brake, all the bolts holding it on, etc) when you can remove a small cover and change the front? > > If you switch to the prevailing torque nut, it's even easier. Takes 10 minutes, tops... including adjusting the chain. > > > > -Jeff Khoury

Oh, Baby. You are the man! 10 minutes--you are a crew chief for a KLR mech team! smile. For the rest of us 'plumbers', it will take a little longer-- One of the original KLR gurus "Devon" from NY (NYsingletrack) used to advertise 20 minutes for a sprocket change; he suggested that he rode 60-100 miles from NYC to a place to ride, change to 14T, etc. Always thought if you are going to that much trouble, change to a 13T. shrug. Otherwise, I would run the 14T all the time. 2 each his own wonton. Sproket change: Most will need at least 20 minutes, and the first "time trial" will be closer to 30 minutes; later, it might be 20 minutes if you don't lose a bolt, or 'get lost' in counting the number of rotations on the chain tensioner for proper chain/wheel alignment, or cut yourself (my new favorite). Hint: Jeff Saline has an excellent suggestion of indexing the hex nut; mark the top flat with a center punch with one 'punch' mark, and the opposite flat with two punch marks. Helps to track exactly how much you have moved the nut. (Don't talk to anyone while you are counting the turns; if you do, you will get lost on how many turn you have made. sigh. I have the T-shirt for that bone-head mistake, uh, one in L and one in XL.) NO real foul, it just take longer to check the chain alignment, etc. Hint: Replacing the double nut chain tensioner with a nyloc nut or prevailing torque nut on the pre-08 models makes the chain tensioning a lot faster and simpler. Note: if using a nyloc nut (nylon center insert locking nut) if you can turn it with your finger past the end of the nut, it is worn out. Throw it away and buy a new one. revmaaatin. ps. As I recall, Devon and another man "Jake" were the leading edge of the dohickey research/development. Others might comment/remember to what extent.

[RobertWichert]

Well, this is interesting,.  Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed.  If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth.  The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth.  This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain.  Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert robert@... wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[Craig Kahler]

I had a 13T on my 2007. The stock chain fit fine. Craig Kahler

--- On [b]Sun, 5/16/10, RobertWichert [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: RobertWichert Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th To: "revmaaatin" Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, May 16, 2010, 10:14 AM   Well, this is interesting, .  Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed.  If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth.  The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth.  This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain.  Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote:

> > Well, this is interesting,. Unless my math skills are out of step with > reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine > speed by seven percent at the same ground speed. If you hit 5000 rpm at > indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed > with a 14 tooth. The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost > sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go > indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 > tooth. This checks with your "rule of thumb". > > I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain. > Can you verify or deny this rumor? > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 >

Robert, No. No rumors. smile. If you have an OEM 106 link chain, you can easily go from 15 to 13T. [i] You will need to watch F. sprocket wear as going to 13 from 15 = delta of 14% more chain interface per revolution. I think in 2200 miles, the sprocket was 1/2 used up (or more). For $20@Freds, with a 13T you get a real tractor gear if you need it, and most of the time 2d gear will be the new slow speed gear. While going to the 13T/43 on the 2008GDR, I never needed to slip the clutch. I doubt you will either. The other two KLR riders were amazed how much they enjoyed the tractor gear. smile. Again: wide side of the sprocket collar against the engine case. After you torque the C/S nut, be sure to check that the chain does not touch the case adjacent to the counter-shaft seal. Wide side next to the case should give you sufficient clearance. revmaaatin.[/i]

[RobertWichert]

The plot thickens.... Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 5/16/2010 8:10 AM, Craig Kahler wrote: I had a 13T on my 2007. The stock chain fit fine. Craig Kahler --- On [b]Sun, 5/16/10, RobertWichert [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: RobertWichert Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th To: "revmaaatin" Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com Date: Sunday, May 16, 2010, 10:14 AM Well, this is interesting, . Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed. If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth. The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth. This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain. Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote: --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[roncriswell@sbcglobal.net]

Not with my experience. Ran an a 13 last year at Moab after changing to it when I got here. I changed backed to stock on the ride back home. Sometimes math is an not exact science I guess. Criswell

On May 16, 2010, at 9:14 AM, RobertWichert wrote:   Well, this is interesting, .  Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed.  If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth.  The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth.  This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain.  Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert robert@... wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[RobertWichert]

The math is pretty close. I was worried about chain length. If you guys did it, I can do it too! I ordered both a 13 and a 14 from Fred. I'm putting on the 13 first for a dual sport ride next Saturday. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 5/16/2010 5:06 PM, roncriswell@... wrote: Not with my experience. Ran an a 13 last year at Moab after changing to it when I got here. I changed backed to stock on the ride back home. Sometimes math is an not exact science I guess. Criswell On May 16, 2010, at 9:14 AM, RobertWichert wrote: Well, this is interesting, . Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed. If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth. The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth. This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain. Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote: --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert robert@... wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.