new to list and have an oil question

[usa1911a1]

The stator on a KLR has a separate set of "thing-a-ma-jigs" to generate spark for the engine. You don't even need a battery to run a KLR once it is started. I don't think it is your plug, or your hi-voltage wires, as you bike still ignites a really rich mixture, which is more difficult than a leaned out mixture...right? You are not blowing out the plug either. Could the smoke be oil burning? I don't know much about valves and valve guides, or oil rings (which I hear are not that good on a KLR) could leaky seals or really bad oil ring do that to you at high RPM? Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA http://www.essexsteamtrain.com/ 2006 A6F KLR Green Tires: Mefo 99 Explorers Country roads (20% dirt), dual tracks. NY State and Northern New England

----- Original Message ----- From: Jud Jones To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:40 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Bike idles but floods and dies --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Angus" wrote: > > The flooding I speak of is black smoke, way rich running, if you back off > the gas the engine starts to idle and clears up. It acts like the timing > does not advance or there is hi-voltage breakdown in the coil, as the RPM > increases the coil shorts out internally. This effect happened on my old > carb and my new one, all the gas lines are new, the fuel filter has been > removed, the tank has been replaced with a small plastic tank for testing. > The valve clearance shims were adjusted. > > Not an easy problem. > > > _____ Not easy indeed. It could be fuel-related, but it could also be a symptom of a fault in the charging system and a discharged batery. Putting a meter on the battery at rest and with the motor running should give you a quick read, and at least rule out electrics if they are not the problem. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kevin Angus]

The flooding I speak of is black smoke, way rich running, if you back off the gas the engine starts to idle and clears up. It acts like the timing does not advance or there is hi-voltage breakdown in the coil, as the RPM increases the coil shorts out internally. This effect happened on my old carb and my new one, all the gas lines are new, the fuel filter has been removed, the tank has been replaced with a small plastic tank for testing. The valve clearance shims were adjusted. Not an easy problem. _____ From: Taralynn [mailto:taralynnbernard@...] On Behalf Of AT Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 12:36 AM To: kangus@... Subject: Re:Bike idles but floods and dies I feel you are barking up the wrong tree here. The fitting where the fuel inlet line goes into the carb, is pressed into a rubber O ring. What will happen, a small piece of this gets torn off and can work loose. It will be just large enough it won't completely pass the needle seat for the float causing it to stick open, flooding the carb. Remove the fitting, get this piece(s) out (using air, a straight pin, anything) and it will be fine. Been there, done that, problem solved... Why are you checking the coil if it is flooding? -Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 03:01:53 -0000 "zx111990" writes:

> Hi, I just bought a 2003 KLR 650. I know this has ben probably asked > > a thousand times, but, what type of oil should I use. The bike > needs > a oil change and I was wandering if there is any type of oil I could > > purchase at places such as WalMart or Autozone.... > > Also, I am 6'3" and was wandering where i can get a stronger spring? > > What brand and what store and what type. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Larry H > 2003 KLR 650 > San Antonio, TX

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Larry, I suggest you try Rotella 15w-40 dino oil. Analysis shows it's good for at least 1,500 smiles and I'm thinking it'll still pass at 2,000 smiles but haven't got there yet. I've got test results from 1,000, 1,250 and 1,500 smiles so far and from a few bikes. Valvoline is only good for maybe 1,000 smiles and is sheared from a 40w to a 20w. I suggest you stop at a NAPA store and get a new crush washer for the drain plug. It's part number 704-1371 and cost is about $1. It's a 12 mm blue soft washer. You won't need as much torque on the drain plug to get it to seal which will be good for the case threads. This washer will also last a long time and is good for multiple oil changes. When you change the oil filter make sure you save the metal tube in the middle of the filter. It only goes into the oil filter compartment in one direction. The o-ring on the oil filter door is usually reusable. I have probably 15 oil changes on my o-ring and it's still good. I suggest you contact Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com for your suspension questions and needs. He can take good care of you. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT