two stupid things in two minutes!

DSN_KLR650
Krgrife@aol.com
Posts: 806
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 9:32 pm

the doohickey

Post by Krgrife@aol.com » Mon Mar 08, 2004 11:50 pm

Pat, you are correct and I was wrong. I visited Elden today and as Mike already pointed out we had discussed making stronger parts but at that point were still a little ways away from getting it done. Jake was developing his about the same time. Regards, Kurt Grife

kdxkawboy@aol.com
Posts: 1442
Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2003 7:59 pm

the doohickey

Post by kdxkawboy@aol.com » Tue Mar 09, 2004 7:55 am

In a message dated 2004-03-08 9:50:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, Krgrife writes:
> > > Pat, you are correct and I was wrong. I visited Elden today and as Mike > already pointed out we had discussed making stronger parts but at that point > were still a little ways away from getting it done. Jake was developing his > about the same time. > Regards, > Kurt Grife >
I'd like to take a moment to make a couple of points about this, and the oversized brake rotor discussions.... First, despite the worry several of our listers have expressed to me off-line, there hasn't been any real flaming, name calling, or trolling involved in either thread. Second, I haven't seen anything that says we can't walk from these discussion agreeing to disagree. I may decide not to replace my dohickey for general principles but that doesn't make you an idiot for doing so. Having said that, here is what I think about the whole dohickey issue. From a reliability point of view I would argue that Elden's Balancer Spring Inspection window is a must. If my dohickey were to ever brake I would more than likely replace it with an improved after market part. And if I was picking up a used KLR, I would lean towards pulling the engine apart far enough to see what condition the dohickey was in - when it comes to POs I tend to be a cynic until I get a chance to tear things apart far enough to see what I really got. Its just my opinion that when properly maintained the dohickey is mostly a non-issue. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim A Backer
Posts: 66
Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2003 9:21 am

the doohickey

Post by Jim A Backer » Tue Mar 09, 2004 8:03 am

What is this inspection window I keep seeing folks refer to? kb7tgr A6 02 gl18 WY ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

wannabsmooth1
Posts: 459
Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 4:32 pm

the doohickey

Post by wannabsmooth1 » Tue Mar 09, 2004 8:27 am

The "inspection window" consists of drilling thru an already existing blind bolt hole in the generator case cover, the second engine case cover you remove when you take apart the left side of the engine. The entire process I do involves drilling that hole thru, oversize, installing a threaded insert. Installing a threaded insert in the hole for the lever adjustment bolt. Machining smooth and flat the surface of this case where the lever, aka "hickey", is attached. I've seen cases where the system would not adjust because the cases had rough casting spots and/or burrs in this area. all the best, Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng San Diego, Ca --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jim a backer wrote:
> What is this inspection window I keep seeing folks refer to? > kb7tgr > A6 > 02 gl18 > WY > > ________________________________________________________________ > The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! > Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

Tengai Mark Van Horn
Posts: 1922
Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 8:31 pm

the doohickey

Post by Tengai Mark Van Horn » Tue Mar 09, 2004 1:01 pm

At 8:55 AM -0500 3/9/04, kdxkawboy@... wrote:
>I'd like to take a moment to make a couple of points about this, and the >oversized brake rotor discussions.... > >First, despite the worry several of our listers have expressed to me >off-line, there hasn't been any real flaming, name calling, or >trolling involved in >either thread.
That's a good thing, right?
>Second, I haven't seen anything that says we can't walk from these discussion >agreeing to disagree.
Where's Jim Sherlock when you need him!?
>Having said that, here is what I think about the whole dohickey issue. From a >reliability point of view I would argue that Elden's Balancer Spring >Inspection window is a must.
No, I'd still rather pull the magneto cover every other oil change and do a real inspection, stock doohickey or not.
> I would lean towards pulling the engine apart far enough to see what >condition the dohickey was in - when it comes to POs I tend to be a >cynic until >I get a chance to tear things apart far enough to see what I really got.
I recommend not putting too many miles on a used KLR until the Doohickey AND oil strainer are inspected. Mark http://www.reelrider.com

Thor Lancelot Simon
Posts: 529
Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2002 5:32 pm

the doohickey

Post by Thor Lancelot Simon » Tue Mar 09, 2004 5:30 pm

On Tue, Mar 09, 2004 at 02:26:42PM -0000, wannabsmooth1 wrote:
> > I've seen cases where the system would not adjust because the cases > had rough casting spots and/or burrs in this area.
And then there's the other interesting loose-tolerances condition: on my bike, the doohickey's particualrly prone to tip out because, at least compared to a few other samples I measured once I thought about it enough to get curious, the idler shaft is noticeably undersized. With a little bit of tweaking and teasing, I can get a *stock* doohickey to bind on my bike's idler shaft, in a tipped- out orientation in which it could easily break against the spider on the back of the big starter gear. I disagree with Pat's suggestion that if the doohickey is adjusted exactly per the Kawasaki procedure, nothing bad will happen, and that incompetent shade-tree mechanics are responsible for most if not all of the busted samples. On my bike, loosening the lock bolt "a few" turns, as the manual says, is enough to let the doohickey tip out and bind. That's why I now do the adjustment with the bike all the way over on its right side, *and* loosen the bolt only until it starts to turn freely (1/2 turn at most); this is very much not what Kawasaki says to do (it's also more cautious even than Elden's procedure; but it is easy to do, and I have had enough problems in this area already, thank you very much!). Thor

Keith Saltzer
Posts: 1071
Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 10:03 pm

two stupid things in two minutes!

Post by Keith Saltzer » Thu Feb 24, 2005 3:47 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Silverstein" wrote:
> Excellent question! You must have gotten gold stars on your reading
for
> comprehension tests in school. > > I have a 30 year old habit of resetting the trip meter *after* I've > taken off, within the first few hundred yards. I have no idea why. > Clearly it's a habit whose utility I should rethink.
LOL! I understood it right the first time Mike..........and I was kicked out of 2 schools. Never finished 10th grade. Cool, guess I didn't miss much. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

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