how much clearance between front fender and frame? steering fee

[Jim Ousley]

----- Original Message ----- From: "Vernon, Kenny" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 3:56 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] First Oil Change > Hey guys and gals, > > Getting ready to do first oil change. Any helpful hints/tips? > Don't throw away the metal tube that is in the old filter. You need to put it in the new filter. Jim

[toomanybikes]

> Wow, Autozone has Fram filters for the KLR, coool. I > was going to > order them from Rockymountainatv. >

They may have to order but it usually on takes 2 days, I just used my last so it is time to order a few more. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax http://taxes.yahoo.com/

[Fred Hink]

Better try a CH6070. Fred (still alive and kickin- just barely)

----- Original Message ----- From: "Walter Lesnowich" To: "Vernon, Kenny" ; "Zachariah Mully" Cc: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 10, 2002 2:35 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] First Oil Change > > Watch out when you're tightening the oil cover bolts, they're easy to > > strip out. I think the FRAM part number is 6012 (check that, it might be > > the part number for the Concours), anyone really know the FRAM part > > number? > > FRAM part number is CH 6040. >

[bradklr650]

I won't use Fram filters on the bike after seeing this, IMO cardboard is not the best idea in a pressurized oil filled enviornment. http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters.shtml I found the above link at a BMW based site, with a lot of good or interesting info, thats located at: http://webbikeworld.com/ Brad

> > Wow, Autozone has Fram filters for the KLR, coool. I > > was going to > > order them from Rockymountainatv. > > > They may have to order but it usually on takes 2 days, > I just used my last so it is time to order a few > more. > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax > http://taxes.yahoo.com/

[Devon Jarvis]

Everybody has their own little routine for oil changes, some swear that the sight glass is in the wrong place, some swear that it's fine and Kawi specifies too much oil. In a sense they're both right since nobody's blowing up motors due to oil starvation. I go by the manual- drain the oil, change the filter, pour 2.5L of oil into the crankcase. This puts the oil level over the top of the sight glass. Less works OK too, and if I am running the bike really hard and go 3000mi between changes, it will end up at the top mark on the sightglass by the time I change it. You never check the oil with the motor running. Devon A15 "Juan C. Gonzalez" wrote:

> I'm about to do my first oil change also, the dealer did the first one at > 500 miles, and am wondering how much oil I should use? The manual says 2.6 > quarts, if changing oil filter, but a buddy of mine insists that his KLR > won't take much more than 2 quarts. Do I put two quarts, start it up, and > then keep adding until the oil level comes up to the "high" mark? > --Juan > '02 KLR650 > '85 K100RT > '82 XL250R > >

[dooden]

Kenny, I must be the crazy one here, cause I actually bought Kaw-Chem Oil at the shop and a Kawi filter, I figured at least during the complete break in phase, I better stick with at least Kawi stuff. 1 Gallon was like $11 and filter was like $6, also got a small can of honda Chain lube, total oil change cost me like $21 with can of chain lube. Mostly was concerned about the clutch, if I used auto type oil, not sure and with a new bike.. well why chance it. As for suggestions on changing oil, would recommend you run down to Autozone and get a tube of Anti-seize compound (High Temp) any bolt you take out, apply a little of this stinky messy stuff on. Ok on to the bike, Drain plug on the bottom, pretty obvious. Attempt to keep bike as straight up as possible, when oil is draining, back out the oil filter cover bolts and wiggle the cover out, its basically a machined sleeve with a O-ring so be careful. Reason you want the bike straight up is all the oil in the filter will need to go somewhere, at the outside rim there is a oil return hole that the drained oil can drip back down into the lower end. If you pull the filter out slowly this oil will drip down that hole. Or do what I did pull out the dripping mess and wipe up the oil. If the bike is leaned on the stand, the oil sits inside the filter chamber and pools. Metal post thingy (by-pass tube) the filter has in it, needs to go back in the engine, do not toss it. Have fun, keep rags handy, do not be too alarmed if the oil appears to have alot of fine metal dust in it if its the first oil change. Duden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Vernon, Kenny" wrote: > Let me summarize what I've learned so far to make sure I'll be doing this > right. > > 1. Don't throw away metal tube from old filter, needed in new filter. Easy > enough. > > 2. Preferences on oil differ from "Orville Reddenbachers Buttery Flavored > Popping Oil" to "used cage oil" to new. I'll think I'll give the new oil a > shot and see how it works. Full report on this to come. Oh yeah, stick a > shot of Jack Daniels in there (for the extra HP). > > 3. Don't pry the filter housing off with screwdriver due to possible > damage. What about an impact? Nobody mentioned that. > > > That's what I love about this list. You just don't get service like that at > a dealership (Gino -- you taking notes here???). > > Thanks guys. > > Kenny > Proud A16 Rider > > -----Original Message----- > From: Walter Lesnowich > To: Vernon, Kenny; Zachariah Mully > Cc: DSN_klr650@y... > Sent: 4/10/02 3:35 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] First Oil Change > > > Watch out when you're tightening the oil cover bolts, they're easy to > > strip out. I think the FRAM part number is 6012 (check that, it might > be > > the part number for the Concours), anyone really know the FRAM part > > number? > > FRAM part number is CH 6040. > > > > The oil should be new, not the stuff you just drained from your cage > > > Personally, whatever is on sale werks for moi, though I do prefer > Mobil > > Delvac 1300 Super... $5/gal at WallyWorld when I can get out to the > > burbs and buy it. > > > > Z > > DC > > > > I prefer Orville Reddenbachers Buttery Flavored Popping Oil. > > Walt > A14 "War Horse" > > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@y... > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@y... > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@y... > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@y... > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Brent B]

Devon, I am ready for my 3000 mi change. I have had to add oil several times. Is this normal? According to your posts you, don't use that much oil, correct? I was in the city Mon and Tues on business, Kept looking for a KLR but didn't see you or any KLR brent Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 22:35:23 -0400 From: Devon Jarvis Subject: Re: First Oil Change Everybody has their own little routine for oil changes, some swear that the sight glass is in the wrong place, some swear that it's fine and Kawi specifies too much oil. In a sense they're both right since nobody's blowing up motors due to oil starvation. I go by the manual- drain the oil, change the filter, pour 2.5L of oil into the crankcase. This puts the oil level over the top of the sight glass. Less works OK too, and if I am running the bike really hard and go 3000mi between changes, it will end up at the top mark on the sightglass by the time I change it. You never check the oil with the motor running. Devon A15 "Juan C. Gonzalez" wrote:

> I'm about to do my first oil change also, the dealer did the first one at > 500 miles, and am wondering how much oil I should use? The manual says 2.6 > quarts, if changing oil filter, but a buddy of mine insists that his KLR > won't take much more than 2 quarts. Do I put two quarts, start it up, and > then keep adding until the oil level comes up to the "high" mark? > --Juan > '02 KLR650 > '85 K100RT > '82 XL250R

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RM]

On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, dooden wrote:

>basically a machined sleeve with a O-ring so be careful. Reason you >want the bike straight up is all the oil in the filter will need to go >somewhere, at the outside rim there is a oil return hole that the >drained oil can drip back down into the lower end. If you pull the >filter out slowly this oil will drip down that hole. Or do what I did >pull out the dripping mess and wipe up the oil.

Let the bike sit overnight and 90% of the oil in the filter cavity will drain back into the sump. Much less messy.

[hens_p]

RM: BAck in my mini bike days, somebody told me to always change oil while the engine was hot. The theory was that it helped remove the sludge with the oil. Anybody got any comments on that? Pat

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote: > Let the bike sit overnight and 90% of the oil in the filter cavity will > drain back into the sump. Much less messy.

[dooden]

NOW YOU TELL ME !!! First time opening, I just figured the return would be on the downward side. (kickstand) As my wife might atest.. I was wrong , but am now informed and will remember that trick since washing a KLR afterwards would be a sin. Also want a SS filter, but dont want to part with $70. Ta Ta Duden

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., RM wrote: > > On Thu, 11 Apr 2002, dooden wrote: > > >basically a machined sleeve with a O-ring so be careful. Reason you > >want the bike straight up is all the oil in the filter will need to go > >somewhere, at the outside rim there is a oil return hole that the > >drained oil can drip back down into the lower end. If you pull the > >filter out slowly this oil will drip down that hole. Or do what I did > >pull out the dripping mess and wipe up the oil. > > Let the bike sit overnight and 90% of the oil in the filter cavity will > drain back into the sump. Much less messy.