high winds and coasting issue

[Norm Keller]

A trail-side swap of the front sprocket is a nuts & bolts operation. You can best judge whether the operation is worth while by doing it at home using tools which you will be carrying. You may wish to consider the following: 1) The stock tools are made of cream cheese and should be discarded in favour of better tools. Mid-quality tools such as Craftsman are light-years ahead of the stock ones. There is no need (IMO) to jump to premium professional quality tools for your carry set. People often fail to consider that a cheap tool is a bad idea when it is the only one available. When only one tool is available it is necessary for it to be able to do the job or it will turn out to be very expensive in time and trials. 2) A trail-side change will be a potentially dirty exercise so nitrile gloves, ground cloth (plastic sheet not used for camping), and rags will be very useful. Some WD40 or such will be useful fro cleaning and can also be used in a pinch for tire mounting lube. A couple of heavy zip lock bags will be useful for storing the sprocket and related items to avoid soiling other things. 3) The sprocket is often very tight as supplied so an impact gun is very handy to remove for the first go. 4) I using hand tools, it is best to loosen the sprocket nut with chain in place. This will allow the rear brake to be used to hold the output shaft from rotating. Depending on the engine, even on low gear is, IMO, poor practice because it risks difficult to repair internals. 5) It is probably not necessary that the front sprocket nut be torqued but it does need to be very tight. If the nut is not very tight, there is a real risk that the sprocket will work back and forth within the clearance between the sprocket and output shaft splines. This kind of rotational working will wear the spines which will not be a good thing. Wear to the sprocket splines is minor but excess wear to the output shaft splines will require a major tear down. 6) In order to reduce the number of tools, it might be useful to carry a small breaker bar and a piece of heavy walled tubing or pipe to slip over the breaker bar as a "cheater." A cheater will allow a short bar to perform as required and may be sized to work as a prop for tire changing. It might also serve for striking yourself on the fore head if you are considering that Yukon ride at this time of year. (VBG) We lived in Yukon for 11 years so know of what I speak. Think long and hard before you do the Dempster in wet weather, oh pilgrim. You can't carry enough patches.... Good luck on your ride, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[G Smith]

Hi Norm, Thanks for the reply. I should have mentioned I'm planning our trip for next fall, not this year, late August early September. I appreciate your advice. The tool kit is something I am working on and I will have a good set prior to the trip. I'm fortunate that a good friend sold his KLR and gave a tianium KLR tire wrench set that will fit the bill. I need to throw in a few more items for a trip of this magnitude however. I want to do the Canol pipeline from the BC/Yukon border to Ross River. I'd like to do the entire trip right into the NWT but am going to bite off small chunks over multiple years to gain experience for the narlier bits that are further north and farther from civilization. Any comments on the route would also be appreciated. Regards, Garrett -- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote:

> > A trail-side swap of the front sprocket is a nuts & bolts

operation. You can best judge whether the operation is worth while by doing it at home using tools which you will be carrying.

> > You may wish to consider the following: > 1) The stock tools are made of cream cheese and should be

discarded in favour of better tools. Mid-quality tools such as Craftsman are light-years ahead of the stock ones. There is no need (IMO) to jump to premium professional quality tools for your carry set.

> > People often fail to consider that a cheap tool is a bad idea when

it is the only one available. When only one tool is available it is necessary for it to be able to do the job or it will turn out to be very expensive in time and trials.

> > 2) A trail-side change will be a potentially dirty exercise so

nitrile gloves, ground cloth (plastic sheet not used for camping), and rags will be very useful. Some WD40 or such will be useful fro cleaning and can also be used in a pinch for tire mounting lube. A couple of heavy zip lock bags will be useful for storing the sprocket and related items to avoid soiling other things.

> > 3) The sprocket is often very tight as supplied so an impact gun

is very handy to remove for the first go.

> > 4) I using hand tools, it is best to loosen the sprocket nut with

chain in place. This will allow the rear brake to be used to hold the output shaft from rotating. Depending on the engine, even on low gear is, IMO, poor practice because it risks difficult to repair internals.

> > 5) It is probably not necessary that the front sprocket nut be

torqued but it does need to be very tight. If the nut is not very tight, there is a real risk that the sprocket will work back and forth within the clearance between the sprocket and output shaft splines. This kind of rotational working will wear the spines which will not be a good thing. Wear to the sprocket splines is minor but excess wear to the output shaft splines will require a major tear down.

> > 6) In order to reduce the number of tools, it might be useful to

carry a small breaker bar and a piece of heavy walled tubing or pipe to slip over the breaker bar as a "cheater." A cheater will allow a short bar to perform as required and may be sized to work as a prop for tire changing. It might also serve for striking yourself on the fore head if you are considering that Yukon ride at this time of year. (VBG)

> > We lived in Yukon for 11 years so know of what I speak. > > Think long and hard before you do the Dempster in wet weather, oh

pilgrim. You can't carry enough patches....

> > Good luck on your ride, > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Garrett Smith]

Hi Jeff, Odd how your message didn't post. It also got sent to my "BULK" mailbox, rather than the "INBOX". I'm glad I looked before deleting. Thanks for the response and great advice. As I mentioned to Norm, I'm planning for next fall and will be happy to post our adventure on this site. It looks like I'll be gearing up to do the sprocket swap. I'll have to do it a couple of times as practice. We have a loooong list of things to do before going. It's fun just thinking about it. Regards, Garrett Jeff Saline wrote: On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 15:52:42 -0000 "G Smith" writes:

> > Hi Folks, > > Does anybody have experience with doing a quick change of the front > spocket on the side of the road? >

SNIP

> > If any of you have experience with this I'd appreciate knowing what > you > use and how you accomplish the swap and if you feel it is worth the > trouble. > > Thanks > > Garrett

<><><><><><><><><><><><><>> Garrett, Yes I think that's worth the effort. Steve and I both changed sprockets for our rides home after De Tour. And he changed to a 14 tooth when he got to my place before De Tour. Five riders all changed front sprockets at the US/Canada border two years ago when starting the Great Divide Ride. I think everyone used a Jake's Nut on the counter shaft. I think you can get the equivalent from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com now and I think it's made by our own Eagle Mike. It takes maybe 20 minutes to change a front sprocket from when you first touch the bike to get the tools out until you've finished putting the tools away if you're familiar with the procedure. Tools needed as I recall are the ones you use to remove the sprocket cover (I have sockethead stainless steel bolts in mine so I'm different from stock), 12mm and 14mm box end wrenches for the rear axle chain adjusters, tools to loosen the rear axle (I think it's 19mm and 24mm but again I have a different nut on my axle so it's not stock), and finally I use "Big Mikey", a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a socket (30mm I think) to remove the countershaft nut (Jake's Nut). To break the countershaft nut loose... from the right side of the bike I step on the rear brake pedal and lean over the seat so my gut's on it. Then I pull up on Big Mikey with a quick jerk. Usually I can break the nut loose in one pull. Then I loosen the rear axle and back the chain adjuster nuts back about 11-12 turns (but I make sure I turn each nut the exact same amount so I can easily keep the wheel aligned). I kick the wheel forward, swap sprockets, and then gently tighten the rear axle so the adjuster nuts must be used to pull the wheel to the rear. I usually take turns with the left and right adjusters turning the nuts 1 turn at a time. I have dimples on the nut flats (made with a center punch) to help me keep track of the exact rotation of each nut. When I get the chain adjustment where I want it I tighten the axle and the locknuts to the adjuster nuts. Then I finish tightening the Jake's Nut (again by stepping on the rear brake pedal and leaning over the seat and pulling up on Big Mikey) and finally reinstall the sprocket cover. May I suggest you try this at home using just the tools you plan on carrying on the bike. And it doesn't hurt to also remove the front wheel once too as that takes a few different tools. If you don't have a centerstand it's a good thing to figure out how you're gonna keep the bike in the air without one wheel. The Quik Jack type device Jeff Layton is working on might be very handy. And then see if you have the tools needed to repair a flat. For that I'd suggest the tools to remove a front or rear wheel, 3-4 large tire irons, something to break a tire bead, tube repair stuff (with FRESH glue) and a way to fill a tire at least 4 times. I suggest at least 4 times as if you have to locate a leak that's once, inflate the tube before installing it is twice, inflate the repaired and installed tube is thrice and then starting over caused you pinched the tube will be an easy fourth time. CO2 cartridges won't cut it probably and it sounds like you won't be in an area where you can easily replenish a CO2 cartridge supply. I use an electric compressor from Walmart that's been taken out of the plastic housing. I also carry some wheelbearing grease in a 35mm film canister container. Putting some duct tape over the wheel bearings will help keep them clean. Then you can wipe the axle clean and lube with fresh grease and know you've made a complete repair and don't have to go back in at a later date. If you need a container for holding liquids cutting the bottom from a 5 gallon plastic bucket (about 4" tall, make it enough to hold at least 3 quarts in case you need it for an oil change) works good. It doesn't take much room when packed and can also be used to keep a wheel out of the dirt and the rotor inside the bucket where it's protected. Have a wonderful trip. I'm looking forward to hearing about it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT --------------------------------- The best gets better. See why everyone is raving about the All-new Yahoo! Mail. --------------------------------- All new Yahoo! Mail - --------------------------------- Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 15:52:42 -0000 "G Smith" writes:

> > Hi Folks, > > Does anybody have experience with doing a quick change of the front > spocket on the side of the road? >

SNIP

> > If any of you have experience with this I'd appreciate knowing what > you > use and how you accomplish the swap and if you feel it is worth the > trouble. > > Thanks > > Garrett

<><><><><><><><><><><><><>> Garrett, Yes I think that's worth the effort. Steve and I both changed sprockets for our rides home after De Tour. And he changed to a 14 tooth when he got to my place before De Tour. Five riders all changed front sprockets at the US/Canada border two years ago when starting the Great Divide Ride. I think everyone used a Jake's Nut on the counter shaft. I think you can get the equivalent from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com now and I think it's made by our own Eagle Mike. It takes maybe 20 minutes to change a front sprocket from when you first touch the bike to get the tools out until you've finished putting the tools away if you're familiar with the procedure. Tools needed as I recall are the ones you use to remove the sprocket cover (I have sockethead stainless steel bolts in mine so I'm different from stock), 12mm and 14mm box end wrenches for the rear axle chain adjusters, tools to loosen the rear axle (I think it's 19mm and 24mm but again I have a different nut on my axle so it's not stock), and finally I use "Big Mikey", a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a socket (30mm I think) to remove the countershaft nut (Jake's Nut). To break the countershaft nut loose... from the right side of the bike I step on the rear brake pedal and lean over the seat so my gut's on it. Then I pull up on Big Mikey with a quick jerk. Usually I can break the nut loose in one pull. Then I loosen the rear axle and back the chain adjuster nuts back about 11-12 turns (but I make sure I turn each nut the exact same amount so I can easily keep the wheel aligned). I kick the wheel forward, swap sprockets, and then gently tighten the rear axle so the adjuster nuts must be used to pull the wheel to the rear. I usually take turns with the left and right adjusters turning the nuts 1 turn at a time. I have dimples on the nut flats (made with a center punch) to help me keep track of the exact rotation of each nut. When I get the chain adjustment where I want it I tighten the axle and the locknuts to the adjuster nuts. Then I finish tightening the Jake's Nut (again by stepping on the rear brake pedal and leaning over the seat and pulling up on Big Mikey) and finally reinstall the sprocket cover. May I suggest you try this at home using just the tools you plan on carrying on the bike. And it doesn't hurt to also remove the front wheel once too as that takes a few different tools. If you don't have a centerstand it's a good thing to figure out how you're gonna keep the bike in the air without one wheel. The Quik Jack type device Jeff Layton is working on might be very handy. And then see if you have the tools needed to repair a flat. For that I'd suggest the tools to remove a front or rear wheel, 3-4 large tire irons, something to break a tire bead, tube repair stuff (with FRESH glue) and a way to fill a tire at least 4 times. I suggest at least 4 times as if you have to locate a leak that's once, inflate the tube before installing it is twice, inflate the repaired and installed tube is thrice and then starting over caused you pinched the tube will be an easy fourth time. CO2 cartridges won't cut it probably and it sounds like you won't be in an area where you can easily replenish a CO2 cartridge supply. I use an electric compressor from Walmart that's been taken out of the plastic housing. I also carry some wheelbearing grease in a 35mm film canister container. Putting some duct tape over the wheel bearings will help keep them clean. Then you can wipe the axle clean and lube with fresh grease and know you've made a complete repair and don't have to go back in at a later date. If you need a container for holding liquids cutting the bottom from a 5 gallon plastic bucket (about 4" tall, make it enough to hold at least 3 quarts in case you need it for an oil change) works good. It doesn't take much room when packed and can also be used to keep a wheel out of the dirt and the rotor inside the bucket where it's protected. Have a wonderful trip. I'm looking forward to hearing about it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[hal gainous]

what is the trick to getting the the front sprocket off the bike i have 2 kawasaki manuals and they only show how to take off an 1984. i've never delt with a washer like this and i don't want to ruin it. do i flatten it out all the way around the nut? is the nut normal or left hand thread? i'm turning the motor and tire when i try to turn the nut either way hurry and reply before i ruin something thanks hal2006

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 23:26:40 -0000 "hal gainous" writes:

> what is the trick to getting the the front sprocket off the bike > i have 2 kawasaki manuals and they only show how to take off an > 1984. > > i've never delt with a washer like this and i don't want to ruin > it. > do i flatten it out all the way around the nut? > is the nut normal or left hand thread? > > i'm turning the motor and tire when i try to turn the nut either > way > hurry and reply before i ruin something > > thanks > hal2006

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Hal, You flatten the washer so it isn't locking the nut. It may have one or more flats covered. I used a cold chisel when I did mine. I don't use that style locking device anymore. I use a prevailing torque nut. You can't just buy one at the hardware store as it needs a recess cut into the back side to allow room for the countershaft. I think you can buy this from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com . To remove the nut (it's standard thread as in righty tighty and lefty loosey) I use a big breaker bar with the correct size socket. Put the bike in gear, the higher the better as you don't want torque multiplication in this procedure. With the bike on the side stand I approach it from the right side. I put my right foot on the rear brake pedal and lean over the seat so my stomach is on the seat. Install the breaker bar with the handle pointing towards the rear of the bike. Then put a lot of weight on the rear brake pedal and sharply pull up on the breaker bar. It'll be tight from the factory. Once you've got it broke loose it should quickly turn a bit easier. Installation is the opposite of removal. On Steve's bike that he bought in the middle of De Tour the sprocket was stuck to the countershaft. We had to use a puller to remove it. Once we cleaned the splines on the shaft and sprocket it worked fine. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Rick Linson]

I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. Thanks, Rick [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud]

The short answer is: don't waste your time. The stock gearing is 15/43, with 106 links in the chain. I have heard of people running a 17t chainwheel. It barely fits, but apparently they like it. I can't see why. I tried a 16t and didn't like it: poor top-gear roll-on, sluggish around town and off the line, geared way too tall off-road, no improvement in fuel economy, and the bike would not come close to pulling its re-line in top. On the up-side, the bike ran 300 rpm slower at 70. Give up a lot, gain very little. There is a lot of variation in power output between different examples, though; the ones with a couple or three more horsepower may be better at pulling the taller gear. To my mind, though, tall gearing is for bikes with a small frontal area and decent aerodynamics. The KLR is wide and dirty, not a good candidate. Kawasaki really got the stock gearing right for most purposes. On the street, on the highway, and on most unpaved roads, stock gearing works just fine. In the mountains, or in a venue like Moab, where you might spend days off pavement and on steep tracks, it is worthwhile to lower the gearing. If your KLR spends a lot of time in conditions where tall gearing is a net asset, you probably ought to be on a different bike.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > Thanks, > Rick > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Brent Tegler]

Hi Jud, I run a 16 tooth front sprocket and really like it, mind you all my riding is fast paced (80 to 120 km) on gravel and paved roads. You do notice a little more power is needed starting from a stop but now I have top end gears that I actually use. You definitely DO NOT want to go this route if you intend to ride off-road! Cheers, Brent. Tengai rider, Fergus, Ontario ________________________________ From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Jud Sent: Tue 29/05/2012 2:45 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: FRONT SPROCKET The short answer is: don't waste your time. The stock gearing is 15/43, with 106 links in the chain. I have heard of people running a 17t chainwheel. It barely fits, but apparently they like it. I can't see why. I tried a 16t and didn't like it: poor top-gear roll-on, sluggish around town and off the line, geared way too tall off-road, no improvement in fuel economy, and the bike would not come close to pulling its re-line in top. On the up-side, the bike ran 300 rpm slower at 70. Give up a lot, gain very little. There is a lot of variation in power output between different examples, though; the ones with a couple or three more horsepower may be better at pulling the taller gear. To my mind, though, tall gearing is for bikes with a small frontal area and decent aerodynamics. The KLR is wide and dirty, not a good candidate. Kawasaki really got the stock gearing right for most purposes. On the street, on the highway, and on most unpaved roads, stock gearing works just fine. In the mountains, or in a venue like Moab, where you might spend days off pavement and on steep tracks, it is worthwhile to lower the gearing. If your KLR spends a lot of time in conditions where tall gearing is a net asset, you probably ought to be on a different bike.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Rick Linson wrote: > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing the sprocket size. > > Thanks, > Rick > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Patrick Zegers]

I'd have to agree with Jud with his points. Although I personally run a 16/44 or 15/44 for my commute. The 16/44, a little higher than stock, does take away some of the vibration on the freeway. I do have a 14 for the off pavement but seldom use it. I tried a 16/45 and 15/45, but the 15/45 was too low for 70+ freeway riding. The 15/45 was nice for riding in the mountains where you didn't run 60mph much. (the ramble stops) Back to Jud's points, the 17/43 takes away too much for what you get. ________________________________ From: Jud To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 6:46:26 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: FRONT SPROCKET The short answer is: don't waste your time. The stock gearing is 15/43, with 106 links in the chain. I have heard of people running a 17t chainwheel. It barely fits, but apparently they like it. I can't see why. I tried a 16t and didn't like it: poor top-gear roll-on, sluggish around town and off the line, geared way too tall off-road, no improvement in fuel economy, and the bike would not come close to pulling its re-line in top. On the up-side, the bike ran 300 rpm slower at 70. Give up a lot, gain very little. There is a lot of variation in power output between different examples, though; the ones with a couple or three more horsepower may be better at pulling the taller gear. To my mind, though, tall gearing is for bikes with a small frontal area and decent aerodynamics. The KLR is wide and dirty, not a good candidate. Kawasaki really got the stock gearing right for most purposes. On the street, on the highway, and on most unpaved roads, stock gearing works just fine. In the mountains, or in a venue like Moab, where you might spend days off pavement and on steep tracks, it is worthwhile to lower the gearing. If your KLR spends a lot of time in conditions where tall gearing is a net asset, you probably ought to be on a different bike.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Linson wrote: > > I am looking to purchase a front sprocket 2 teeth more than the original. >Anyone have experience with a particular brand or number of teeth that worked >better than stock. I'm looking at bringing down the RPM a little on the freeway >and, at the same time, not lose too much low end power for off road. I know you >can't have both - just looking for those of you that have experienced changing >the sprocket size. > > Thanks, > Rick > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]