klr tools for sale
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klr650 valves
#ygrps-yiv-1314668298 .ygrps-yiv-1314668298ygrp-photo-title { TEXT-ALIGN:center;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298ygrp-photo { BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 P { PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;CLEAR:both;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1314668298 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1314668298ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} On Fri, 4 Jul 2014 07:02:42 -0700 "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Jeff
You were correct the measurements are incorrect ,so I had to take cam shafts off replace the "new "shims with the old ones ,put cam shaft back ,re-torque cam caps , I borrowed a feeler gauge and am now ready to measure gap .
Question : I had the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets aligned properly with the top of the head ,but when I put back the timing chain tensioner the spring in the tensioner push everything up about 1/2 inch . How to you keep the arrows aligned when putting tension on the timing chain ?
Thank You <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Luc, To keep the timing of the cams correct when installing them I gently pull the chain up from the front side of the engine. This is the run of chain that is pulled down when the engine is running. So pulling up on it removes any slack. I set the exhaust cam first and then move to the intake cam again gently pulling the chain toward the intake cam. Again, this removes slack from that run of chain. Any slack left should now be on the rear side of the intake cam and will be removed when the cam tensioner is installed. You can put a finger in the cam chain tensioner hole in the rear of the cylinder and push on the tensioner guide. It should remove slack so you can easily see if the timing marks on the cam sprockets remain aligned correctly. Don't have your finger in the hole when you turn the engine over. I'll suggest you should only turn the engine counter clockwise as that is the direction the engine turns when running. The tension of the chain is between the crankshaft sprocket and exhaust cam and then between the exhaust cam and the intake cam. There should be no tension on the run of the cam chain between the intake cam and crankshaft sprocket other than what is put there by the cam chain tensioner. Turning the engine in a clockwise direction puts tension on the cam chain tensioner which it is not designed to handle. I will suggest you do not rotate the engine if the cams are not properly aligned. The KLR engine is an interference engine meaning the valves when open will occupy the same space as the piston when it is at top dead center. That means they can contact which will probably result in a bent valve in some instances. You can bend a valve turning the engine over by hand if the cams are not correctly timed. Glad you are getting the clearances figured out. Best,
Jeff Saline
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
. . . . . . .
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klr tools for sale
NOOOOOOOOO! tell me it ain't so. Sold the KLR, Was there a Nuclear bomb attack? LOL
Don't need the tools, but may be going threw, (stopping 1-2 days) Roanoke soon, on may way to NC. still riding?
On Saturday, July 5, 2014 3:41 PM, "oldwing@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Sold my KLR so I am selling off some of the KLR related items. 1. Doohicy tools; A bent 1 1/4 wrench to hold the flywheel and a threaded bolt to pop it off. $25 +$8 for shipping. 2 Tee wrench to remove the front fork internals. Basically a nut welded to square stock that holds the top while you loosen the bottom nut. $25 + $8 for shipping. 3 8 valve shims between 245 and 265. $30 +$5 for shipping. 4. Timber Wolf soft saddle bags that you throw over the seat and strap down. Includes silver rain covers... $50 + $10 shipping. You will need a stand off to on the muffler to keep the bag off of it. Ask any questions that you may have. Gonna miss the KLR but I moved to a patio home with a smaller garage and something had to go. Bill Lewis Roanoke, Virginia Professor of Motorcycleology 2004 R1150RT 2002 KLR 1990 R100RT/Champion Escort Expect The Unexpected #ygrps-yiv-69147876 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 -- #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-69147876 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-69147876 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-69147876 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-69147876 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163 #ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-69147876yiv8503726163ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-69147876 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klr650 valves
I find the of the marks that situate the cams to be sloppy; they don't line up perfectly and thus can be confusing. To take away any guesswork, I draw a line on the chain and sprocket before I take the cams out. White chalk is sufficient it you're careful not to rub int out; nail polish would be better.
Bogdan
From: "Jeff Saline salinej1@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, Jeff Saline
Date: Saturday, July 5, 2014 8:48 AM
To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, "zrislois2klr@..."
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] klr650 Valves
On Fri, 4 Jul 2014 07:02:42 -0700 "Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: Jeff
You were correct the measurements are incorrect ,so I had to take cam shafts off replace the "new "shims with the old ones ,put cam shaft back ,re-torque cam caps , I borrowed a feeler gauge and am now ready to measure gap .
Question : I had the arrows on the cam shaft sprockets aligned properly with the top of the head ,but when I put back the timing chain tensioner the spring in the tensioner push everything up about 1/2 inch . How to you keep the arrows aligned when putting tension on the timing chain ?
Thank You <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Luc, To keep the timing of the cams correct when installing them I gently pull the chain up from the front side of the engine. This is the run of chain that is pulled down when the engine is running. So pulling up on it removes any slack. I set the exhaust cam first and then move to the intake cam again gently pulling the chain toward the intake cam. Again, this removes slack from that run of chain. Any slack left should now be on the rear side of the intake cam and will be removed when the cam tensioner is installed. You can put a finger in the cam chain tensioner hole in the rear of the cylinder and push on the tensioner guide. It should remove slack so you can easily see if the timing marks on the cam sprockets remain aligned correctly. Don't have your finger in the hole when you turn the engine over. I'll suggest you should only turn the engine counter clockwise as that is the direction the engine turns when running. The tension of the chain is between the crankshaft sprocket and exhaust cam and then between the exhaust cam and the intake cam. There should be no tension on the run of the cam chain between the intake cam and crankshaft sprocket other than what is put there by the cam chain tensioner. Turning the engine in a clockwise direction puts tension on the cam chain tensioner which it is not designed to handle. I will suggest you do not rotate the engine if the cams are not properly aligned. The KLR engine is an interference engine meaning the valves when open will occupy the same space as the piston when it is at top dead center. That means they can contact which will probably result in a bent valve in some instances. You can bend a valve turning the engine over by hand if the cams are not correctly timed. Glad you are getting the clearances figured out. Best,
Jeff Saline
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
. . . . . . .
____________________________________________________________
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