Yes, Fred, it was me. You said it wasn't possible. I did it. I did the impossible!
Once I rotated it to get the hole uncovered, it indexed fine and all was well.
If you want to say that it was not indexed properly, that's fine too.
But I did it and I fixed it and it worked fine afterward.
Or it was a gremlin. Or a ghost. Or I imagined it.
Or aliens. Aliens are always a good choice, if I can't explain it otherwise.
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================
On 4/9/2014 9:11 AM, Fred Hink wrote:
Robert, I don t remember if I had this conversation with you or someone else about this matter. It is not possible with these parts in good condition to be able to cover this hole in the slide. The needle clip thingy has six notches in it at it s base that fit over and index on a six sided arrangement in the bottom part of the slide. This indexes the clip so that it isn t over the vacuum hole. If it is over the hole then the six sided part of the slide will keep it off the bottom about 1/8 and not cover the hole. If you were to install this clip over the hole I m sure it wouldn t stay there very long as the spring will eventually push it to the bottom and it will be indexed then. If this clip isn t indexed, the needle will have about an 1/8 free movement up and down. Once the clip is indexed it pushes down on the needle so there is no free-play. Take the slide out sometime and try turning this clip, it won t turn because of the indexing. In case anyone is interested the part we are talking about is 16007-1113 ref. # 16007
https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SSIConverted/3871980_140409_120806_1185.png Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
[b]From:[/b] robert@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, April 09, 2014 8:13 AM [b]To:[/b] jwflower53@... ; johnbiccum@... [b]Cc:[/b]
dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Help! 22-cent mod renders motor non-running!?!?!? ('99 KLR)
It is possible to cover the slide hole with the needle clip thingy. If you do that the slide won't lift and well, it don't run so good.
You have to look down at the clip thingy from the inside of the slide and make sure that the hole is not blocked.
Been there, done that.
Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 4/8/2014 9:34 PM, James W. Flower wrote:
John- Another good tip, thanks. -James On Apr 8, 2014, at 9:14 PM, "John Biccum" wrote:
Still think its electrical, not fuel system. I d check the plug cap next. The plug cap has a thread like a woodscrew. Unscrew it (counterclockwise) then cut off about a inch of plug wire, then give the screw threads a bit of dialectic grease before screwing the plug cap back on. Over time that connection gets loose or corroded and will show up as a miss when engine under load at 5k. [b]From:[/b] James W. Flower [jwflower53@
yahoo.com]
[b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, April 8, 2014 20:40
[b]To:[/b] John Biccum
[b]Cc:[/b]
dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com
[b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Help! 22-cent mod renders motor non-running!?!?!? ('99 KLR) John- Thanks, did that, no help. -James On Apr 8, 2014, at 9:54 AM, John Biccum wrote:
Locate the white plug that feeds the low voltage side of the coil. Remove, clean with contact cleaner, fill plug with dielectric grease, reinstall. Here is where to find the white plug:
http://johnbiccum.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Misc-KLR-photos/497409_bP982t#!i=2596412262&k=s4Zhk3D [b]From:[/b]
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [DSN_KLR650@
yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]James W. Flower
[b]Sent:[/b] Monday, April 7, 2014 21:56
[b]To:[/b]
dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com
[b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Help! 22-cent mod renders motor non-running!?!?!? ('99 KLR) Engine had been running fine for years and several thousand miles (13,XXX miles on odometer). I'd had some off-idle stumble so I'd exposed the mixture screw and opened it up. It worked best at 1-1/4 (1300 RPM IDLE; I ride at sea level), which helped but didn't entirely fix the stumble.
A few months ago I developed a new problem: freeway cruising above 5000 rpm, motor would start to miss. First just occasionally, then increasingly, missing more and more cycles at a time, until it felt like a bucking bronco. Though the problem never began under 5000, once it started, slowing down to under 5000 didn't fix it. I'd limp home, go out the next day and again it ran fine until I cruised over 5000, then the problem started again.
I discovered this in fifth on the freeway, then tested in fourth and third and got the same problem: missing started just over 5000 rpm. (My countershaft sprocket is 14 teeth; 5000 is 65 mph actual.)
I thought I'd check the main jet. It looked fine, even under the magnifying glass, but I soaked it with a denture-cleaning fizzy on general principle. My amateur eye didn't turn up any problems with the carb,but I didn't go over it thoroughly.
But while I was doing this, I also did the following;
-Installed a new spark plug, NGK DPR8EIX-9 (Irideum), .034" gap;
-Installed the Big Cee gravity feed petcock kit;
-Installed a new length of 1/4" fuel line;
-Drilled the forward hole in the bottom of the slide to 7/64";
-Installed a #4 SS washer, .032" thick, under the head of the jet needle;
-Installed a new float bowl gasket, with Copper Coat in the groove of the bowl and grease on top of the gasket;
-Installed a CV Performance EZ-Just mixture screw, with new O-ring, washer, and spring. Started with it two turns out.
Result: motor stumbles and dies if I try to rev it from idle. If I start at idle and very slowly open the throttle, it'll get to 2000-2400, then die. Once I was able to rev it up, and it stumbled like crazy (puh-POP, puh-POP, pub-POP), then died.
It did this at every mixture screw position from one turn out to four. I switched back to the OEM mixture screw: no help. (I re-installed the thumb screw). I checked that I'd re-installed the slide frontwards (drilled-out hole toward front): I had. Then I removed the washer from the needle: no help!
The carb is back just the way it was before I starting messing with it, except for the hole in the slide. I can't believe anything I did (intentionally) caused this. But I can't find anything I broke or put back in wrong, or didn't put back in at all. Can anybody tell me what to check next?
Any suggestions appreciated. And the weather's just getting good here, too!
-James
When you have a problem with a machine, solve the problem before making any modifications or improvements. This is as solid a rule as one can derive. What you've done is to introduce many additional variables into what might have been a far simpler problem. Sorry if this sounds "preachy" as that's not my intent. I'm simply hoping to reduce others' problems. Wow, where to start...?.... First, I'd begin with the basics, compression test/leak down and a general inspection. Put a drain hose onto the bottom bowl drain and drain at least a couple of quarts of fuel into a container. This should insure that you have reasonable mechanical condition and are not experiencing fuel starvation. A compression test is one of the most basic and important indicators as one can have all sorts of issues on top of poor cylinder pressure. Were I to compromise on time and effort, though, I'd tend to discount the tight valves and low compression possibility because you don't mention hard starting which is a classic low compression symptom. Might be better to avoid opening up to do valve adjustment as that might interject other variables. While this may seem circular, my intention is to try to provide context as to why I am thinking along this line. Since the problem which you outlined as the initial and ongoing, appears after some running time, we should confine hypothesis building to those factors which are likely to change while in operation. The valve train's operation generally does not change while in operation so it is less likely to be part of the root cause. Valve clearance tightens when the engine heats up so this is a variable but the change stabilizes very soon in operation so it is unlikely to be the cause of your cutting out symptom. The 5,000 RPM cut-out is also unlikely to be valve train related because this condition progresses to lower RPM which a valve issue is unlikely to do. A weak valve spring or binding valve/valve guide would similarly be unlikely to progress or change. Guide is possible but very rare, IME. I think that you are best to investigate fuel system and ignition system, basing your investigation on factors which are likely to change under the operating conditions stated and to those which affect the operation. Idle circuit, for example, is insignificant at 5,000 RPM so cross that one off. Off to meet a friend but will try to add some more thoughts which I hope will be useful to you. FWIW, IME measuring ignition modules is a waste of time in diagnosis. This is almost as true in diagnosing coils, stator and other parts. The only useful tests, IMO, are oscilloscope, substitution or inference based on metered reading of cranking/turning outputs from components. Off to shower but happy to try to help. Don't know where you're located but if you happen to be in Canada's Upper Fraser Valley, I might be able to provide some hands on help. I also have some substitute components. Norm