we made it, the klr650 is.......

[Alan L Henderson]

At 01:16 PM 10/30/2002 -0700, you wrote:

> >> The KLR does have a 12V battery, right? >> >Sure does, When was the last 6V sold ? Anybody remember ? A 70's Spanish >dirt bike ? > >Bogdan

Gee, Bogdan, my seventies Spanish dirt bike doesn't have a battery. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Bogdan Swider]

> Gee, Bogdan, my seventies Spanish dirt bike doesn't have a battery. > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa >

Is that because it has a magneto or cause it's been sitting for years with the battery out ? Bogdan

[Alan L Henderson]

>> Gee, Bogdan, my seventies Spanish dirt bike doesn't have a battery. >> Alan Henderson A13 Iowa >> > Is that because it has a magneto or cause it's been sitting for >years with the battery out ? > > Bogdan >

None of the Bultacos I was around had a battery. Magneto for ignition with a lighting coil for the head light. The brake light was in series with the mag and the brake switch was in parallel with the bulb, opening when the brakes were on so current would pass through the bulb. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Steve Dyer]

Question here ---> What is the appropriate at rest (engine off) voltage for an AGM KLR battery following a recharge from full drain? The FAQ suggests 12.9V, but is that consistent across all battery types? Story here ----> Hopped on the '99 a few days ago and the newish Sears AGM battery was dead as a doornail, after working flawlessly since installation a few months ago. Maybe I left the key on - I dunno. Anyway, plugged up the big shiny 10/2 amp charger set to 2 amps and let it charge 15 min later the charger's flashing the green light and the needle on the gauge is bouncing, suggesting the battery has a full charge. This seemed awfully fast to me, so I unplugged the charger, hit the starter and the engine sluggishly turned over, indicating significantly less than a full charge. Some months ago I dropped this big charger hard onto the concrete garage floor, and even though it hums as normal during use and the charging rate gauge and lights all work as normal I don't really trust it any more. Soooo, I borrowed a neighbor's -very- basic 12V/6V 1 amp lawn mower/motorcycle 'maintenance' charger and clipped it to the KLR battery. This charger has no lights or gauges of any kind or any indication it's a 'smart' charger, so I'm guessing if yo leave it plugged in you get 1 amp continuously until you unplug it. A couple hours later I disconnected it and hit the starter - the KLR turned over quite readily. With the engine off and the charger unplugged, the battery is showing 12.59V on my digital meter and the KLR turns over and starts easily. Would it be better to plug the charger back in and check battery voltage occasionally until it reaches 12.9V, or consider it good enough, go ride it and let the KLR system top it off? Steve

[David Bell]

If it will start, I would ride it. If you don't ride it right away, leave the charger unplugged overnight and then check it in the morning to make sure it's holding a charge. I don't think the 12.9 vs 12.59 is really all that critical. There is some variation in the normal day to day of things. ________________________________ From: Steve Dyer To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:57:11 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Battery voltage Question here ---> What is the appropriate at rest (engine off) voltage for an AGM KLR battery following a recharge from full drain? The FAQ suggests 12.9V, but is that consistent across all battery types? Story here ----> Hopped on the '99 a few days ago and the newish Sears AGM battery was dead as a doornail, after working flawlessly since installation a few months ago. Maybe I left the key on - I dunno. Anyway, plugged up the big shiny 10/2 amp charger set to 2 amps and let it charge 15 min later the charger's flashing the green light and the needle on the gauge is bouncing, suggesting the battery has a full charge. This seemed awfully fast to me, so I unplugged the charger, hit the starter and the engine sluggishly turned over, indicating significantly less than a full charge. Some months ago I dropped this big charger hard onto the concrete garage floor, and even though it hums as normal during use and the charging rate gauge and lights all work as normal I don't really trust it any more. Soooo, I borrowed a neighbor's -very- basic 12V/6V 1 amp lawn mower/motorcycle 'maintenance' charger and clipped it to the KLR battery. This charger has no lights or gauges of any kind or any indication it's a 'smart' charger, so I'm guessing if yo leave it plugged in you get 1 amp continuously until you unplug it. A couple hours later I disconnected it and hit the starter - the KLR turned over quite readily. With the engine off and the charger unplugged, the battery is showing 12.59V on my digital meter and the KLR turns over and starts easily. Would it be better to plug the charger back in and check battery voltage occasionally until it reaches 12.9V, or consider it good enough, go ride it and let the KLR system top it off? Steve [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:57:11 -0600 "Steve Dyer" writes:

> Question here ---> What is the appropriate at rest (engine off) > voltage > for an AGM KLR battery following a recharge from full drain?

SNIP SNIP SNIP

> Would it be better to plug the charger back in and check battery > voltage > occasionally until it reaches 12.9V, or consider it good enough, go > ride it > and let the KLR system top it off? > > Steve

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Steve, I'm not much for AGM batteries but I know lots of folks have lots of luck with them. I have too for the one I bought in 1999 and am still using. A fully charged battery should read 12.65 volts or so at rest. I think the AGM batteries tend to like a higher charging voltage than slosh batteries. The one AGM battery I have usually sits at 12.7 volts for months on end. Slosh batteries tend to drain at maybe 0.3 volts per month in my experience. The KLR uses a 14 amp hour battery. To bring it to a full charge with a 1 amp (trickle) charger will take 14 hours. After 14 hours the battery is/should be, fully charged. If you measure the voltage as soon as you take the charger off the battery you will be reading a "surface" charge which can give you a false reading. Normally let the battery sit for a few hours and then read the voltage. It should be at least 12.65 volts on a fully charged battery in good condition. You might get a 13 plus volt reading if you check the voltage immediately after taking the charger off the battery. You can check the battery sooner by removing the surface charge. To do this put a load on the battery. I do this by turning on the head light for a few minutes if the battery is in the bike. If the battery is on the bench I have a head light I can easily hook to the battery for a few minutes. After a few minutes, remove the load and check the voltage and see what you've got. Then maybe check it again after another 5 minutes or so. It'll probably come up a tenth or two on a good battery. But that will give you a pretty good idea of the condition of the battery. Now above I mentioned a 1 amp charger will take 14 hours to fully charge the battery. That's figuring on the battery being dead. If a battery is only at 1/2 charge it would only take about 7 hours to bring it to a fully charged state. That's why sometimes it only takes a few minutes to an hour or two for a fully charged light to come on some trickle chargers. Usually the battery isn't fully discharged so doesn't need a full charge application. You can kind of think of this as filling a tank. If the tank is empty it will take a full charge. If the tank is half full it will only accept 1/2 a charge. When the tank is about full it will only take a little to top it off. Now stuffing electricity into a battery at a faster rate can be done within reason. But charging a battery is doing a couple of things. It is causing an electrical to chemical reaction and it is also creating heat. The chemical reaction can only happen so fast so trying to speed that up past it's maximum rate won't work. Stuffing too much electricity into the battery too fast will also cause excessive heat build up and can cause internal damage to battery parts. Knowing this, you could decide you want to fast charge a motorcycle size battery with a 10 amp charger for maybe 15-30 minutes. But if you decide you want to do this make sure you are monitoring the voltage and the temperature of the battery. Ten amps for 30 minutes is the same as a 5 amp charge in 1 hour. The 1 amp trickle charger would take 5 hours to do the same charge. A slow charge is better for the battery but you don't always have the option of time and sometimes must fast charge. Fast charging will shorten battery life. Your KLR with no electrical accessories can probably charge at a maximum rate of about 7 amps per hour when running down the road (5k rpms or better). The voltage regulator will control the charge rate to a good extent. It's usually best to put a charged battery in a bike but if that's not possible you can get by with topping it off as you ride. My rule of thumb is if the battery will start the bike and the battery is in good condition the bike charging system can probably top it off if given a chance. Another rule of thumb for me is for each second of cranking when starting the bike it will take a minute to replenish the electricity used for starting. So if you have to crank the bike for 8 seconds to get it to start you must ride for at least 8 minutes just to get the battery back to where it was charge wise before you tried to start the bike. If you are doing lots of short trips you can easily take out more than you can put in. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Click to consolidate debt and lower month expenses. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2PBHub0G0ZH0Fbu46SCMN1Wv29TJr0Cg0O0wcsSm1BEXu40/

[Bogdan Swider]

Recently I was trying to find out why my electric vest was not doing its' job - cold torso, cold heart .or is it ? Anyway .I got no reading from the connector running from the battery. To make sure my Harbor Freight meter ( I only use the best ) was working, I threw the meter at my van, a 2001 Toyota Sienna ( I only drive the best ). Over the years when taking readings from my motorcycle battery, I consistently get 12.8 or higher even if my ride sits for a while. The reading from my van was 12.25. Seems low to me but an auto wrench told me that's fine. My van starts right up.

Anyone know what's the story. Do cage charging systems keep their batteries at a lower voltage ?

Bogdan, curious in Colorado

[Jeff Saline]

#ygrps-yiv-305954268 .ygrps-yiv-305954268ygrp-photo-title { TEXT-ALIGN:center;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268ygrp-photo { BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 P { PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;CLEAR:both;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-305954268 DIV.ygrps-yiv-305954268ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 16:23:57 +0000 Bogdan Swider bSwider@...> writes:   Recently I was trying to find out why my electric vest was not doing its' job - cold torso, cold heart .or is it ? Anyway .I got no reading from the connector running from the battery. To make sure my Harbor Freight meter ( I only use the best ) was working, I threw the meter at my van, a 2001 Toyota Sienna ( I only drive the best ). Over the years when taking readings from my motorcycle battery, I consistently get 12.8 or higher even if my ride sits for a while. The reading from my van was 12.25. Seems low to me but an auto wrench told me that's fine. My van starts right up. Anyone know what's the story. Do cage charging systems keep their batteries at a lower voltage ? Bogdan, curious in Colorado <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><>   Bogdan the Curious,   I'll suggest your meter is suspect along with the info from your auto wrench.   This is some info that is for lead-acid batteries I got from someone maybe 8 years ago.   You do need a digital voltmeter, the readings are at 70 degrees F and are for lead-acid batteries. You want to wait about 15 minutes or more after charging the battery or running the bike to allow the "surface charge" to disappate. I put this table on a little card and keep it with the VOM.   Percent         Voltage of charge:       Reading:   100%               12.63 90%                12.54 80%                12.45 70%                12.36 60%                12.27 50%                12.18 40%                12.09 30%                12.00 20%                11.91   0%                11.82   So from using this chart it suggests the battery is about 50% discharged at 12.25 volts.   There could be multiple reasons for the vest not getting hot like wiring that is too small for the load, blown fuse or poor connections.   But no matter what I wouldn't use a Harbor Freight multimeter unless that was the absolutely only option.  I've used them before and couldn't get two to read the same on the same connection at the same time.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Old School Yearbook Pics[/b] View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! classmates.com

[Martin Earl]

In keeping with Jeff''s excellent advice on 'suspect' HF voltmeters,Please send me the keys to your [unsuspecting] Toyota after placing the HF Volt Meter in a plain, brown paper bag beneath the passenger seat. Include a one way bus ticket to your location, If you are able to meet those terms, --I will gladly dispose of the 'suspect' volt meters for you; perhaps geocache them in the Beautiful Black Hills. revmaaatin. who is always helpful to his friends. ps. Did I mention I shot my first [ever] turkey this morning? I converted a .223 55g soft point this morning into dinner (tonight). More tasty than BBQed HF voltmeters hidden in a geocache.cough.I also drove 240 miles (4 days, 60 miles/ea) to shoot one .223.shrug.estimating the endeavor ~$14/lb About the same price as rear K270 (mandatory KLR content) which I must change before riding the ever faithful, incredible Blue Pig again.

On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 5:39 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: [u][/u] On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 16:23:57 +0000 Bogdan Swider bSwider@...> writes: Recently I was trying to find out why my electric vest was not doing its' job - cold torso, cold heart .or is it ? Anyway .I got no reading from the connector running from the battery. To make sure my Harbor Freight meter ( I only use the best ) was working, I threw the meter at my van, a 2001 Toyota Sienna ( I only drive the best ). Over the years when taking readings from my motorcycle battery, I consistently get 12.8 or higher even if my ride sits for a while. The reading from my van was 12.25. Seems low to me but an auto wrench told me that's fine. My van starts right up. Anyone know what's the story. Do cage charging systems keep their batteries at a lower voltage ? Bogdan, curious in Colorado <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Bogdan the Curious, I'll suggest your meter is suspect along with the info from your auto wrench. This is some info that is for lead-acid batteries I got from someone maybe 8 years ago. You do need a digital voltmeter, the readings are at 70 degrees F and are for lead-acid batteries. You want to wait about 15 minutes or more after charging the battery or running the bike to allow the "surface charge" to disappate. I put this table on a little card and keep it with the VOM. Percent Voltage of charge: Reading: 100% 12.63 90% 12.54 80% 12.45 70% 12.36 60% 12.27 50% 12.18 40% 12.09 30% 12.00 20% 11.91 0% 11.82 So from using this chart it suggests the battery is about 50% discharged at 12.25 volts. There could be multiple reasons for the vest not getting hot like wiring that is too small for the load, blown fuse or poor connections. But no matter what I wouldn't use a Harbor Freight multimeter unless that was the absolutely only option. I've used them before and couldn't get two to read the same on the same connection at the same time. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ [b]Old School Yearbook Pics[/b] View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! classmates.com

[RobertWichert]

Congrats on the turkey Martin! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 4/22/2014 6:34 PM, Martin Earl wrote:

In keeping with Jeff''s excellent advice on 'suspect' HF voltmeters, Please send me the keys to your [unsuspecting] Toyota after placing the HF Volt Meter in a plain, brown paper bag beneath the passenger seat. Include a one way bus ticket to your location, If you are able to meet those terms, -- I will gladly dispose of the 'suspect' volt meters for you; perhaps geocache them in the Beautiful Black Hills. revmaaatin. who is always helpful to his friends. ps. Did I mention I shot my first [ever] turkey this morning? I converted a .223 55g soft point this morning into dinner (tonight). More tasty than BBQed HF voltmeters hidden in a geocache. cough. I also drove 240 miles (4 days, 60 miles/ea) to shoot one .223. shrug. estimating the endeavor ~$14/lb About the same price as rear K270 (mandatory KLR content) which I must change before riding the ever faithful, incredible Blue Pig again. On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 5:39 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: On Tue, 22 Apr 2014 16:23:57 +0000 Bogdan Swider bSwider@...> writes: Recently I was trying to find out why my electric vest was not doing its' job - cold torso, cold heart .or is it ? Anyway .I got no reading from the connector running from the battery. To make sure my Harbor Freight meter ( I only use the best ) was working, I threw the meter at my van, a 2001 Toyota Sienna ( I only drive the best ). Over the years when taking readings from my motorcycle battery, I consistently get 12.8 or higher even if my ride sits for a while. The reading from my van was 12.25. Seems low to me but an auto wrench told me that's fine. My van starts right up. Anyone know what's the story. Do cage charging systems keep their batteries at a lower voltage ? Bogdan, curious in Colorado <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Bogdan the Curious, I'll suggest your meter is suspect along with the info from your auto wrench. This is some info that is for lead-acid batteries I got from someone maybe 8 years ago. You do need a digital voltmeter, the readings are at 70 degrees F and are for lead-acid batteries. You want to wait about 15 minutes or more after charging the battery or running the bike to allow the "surface charge" to disappate. I put this table on a little card and keep it with the VOM. Percent Voltage of charge: Reading: 100% 12.63 90% 12.54 80% 12.45 70% 12.36 60% 12.27 50% 12.18 40% 12.09 30% 12.00 20% 11.91 0% 11.82 So from using this chart it suggests the battery is about 50% discharged at 12.25 volts. There could be multiple reasons for the vest not getting hot like wiring that is too small for the load, blown fuse or poor connections. But no matter what I wouldn't use a Harbor Freight multimeter unless that was the absolutely only option. I've used them before and couldn't get two to read the same on the same connection at the same time. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ [b]Old School Yearbook Pics[/b] View Class Yearbooks Online Free. Search by School & Year. Look Now! classmates.com