r. blinkers

[hens_p]

Everytime I change the oil in the KLR I am baffled by the amount that I drain out, the amount stamped on the case to put in, the site gauge, the suggested amount in the manual, etc. Nothing every makes sense. The whole thing always makes me thirsty for a beer. Pat

[mcdeld1]

Anyone have a website with details on how to do a oil and filter change? Thanks Chuck

[kcuf_oohay_666]

Don't know of any website. maybe DualSportNews archives. 1) put pan under engine 2) remove oil drain plug 3) watch oil come out and miss the pan and get on the floor. 4) remove 2 screws that hold oil filter cover in place. 5) twist and pull cover from motor 6) remove oil filter 7) >>> IMPORTANT --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "mcdeld1" wrote: > Anyone have a website with details on > how to do a oil and filter change? > Thanks > Chuck

[klrz4ever]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kcuf_oohay_666" wrote:

> Don't know of any website. maybe DualSportNews archives. > > 1) put pan under engine > 2) remove oil drain plug > 3) watch oil come out and miss the pan and get on the floor. > 4) remove 2 screws that hold oil filter cover in place. > 5) twist and pull cover from motor > 6) remove oil filter > 7) >>> IMPORTANT

NOT

> through it away!!!!!! > 8) place the metal tube inside new filter > 9) place new filter in motor > 10) put filter cap on and tighten 2 screews. > 11) tilt bike up to get remaining oil from engine > 12) install drain plug > 13) fill with 2.5 liter 20-50 oil > 14) scratch your head and think if you frogot something > 15) I think thats all > 16) dispose of waste oil properly.......pour it on your neighbors > kids car because he's always playing his stereo too loud > >

Important safety tips: 1) You don't need a new O-ring for the filter cover if you're careful getting the cover off and putting it back on (hold it flush and press in 'flat'. 2) There's a little tab on the oil filter cover that lets you _carefully_ use a blade screwdriver to get the cover started coming off. 3) I don't have the stock skid plate, but if you do, you might have to remove it (can't remember) 4) Make sure the washer on the drain plug is in place when you put the plug back in (or use a new one). Sometimes they fall off after you remove the plug, while the oil is draining. 5) Don't overtighten any fasteners 6) After you're done, take a ride, let 'er sit, then top off oil if necessary. __Arden

[Allan Patton]

> > 4) remove 2 screws that hold oil filter cover in place. > > 5) twist and pull cover from motor > > 2) There's a little tab on the oil filter cover that lets you > _carefully_ use a blade screwdriver to get the cover started coming > off.

I use two needle nose pliers in the screw holes to remove the filter cover. Easiest way I've found.

> > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.xmission.com/~dkenison/cgi/lwgate.cgi/KLR650/archives/ > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[wld_champ]

I hate to stir up this hornets nest again, but I do not have a clear understanding yet. The Kawi dealer states 20W50 Kawi motorcycle oil. There is some strong support for 15W50 which I can't seem to find in motorcycle specific oil. This begs the nest question, is motorcycle specific oil the best choice? I know the arguements for, but I know a mechanic that swears by QuakerState 20W50 in all three of his bikes (wet clutch on all three). I just want to make sure I don't use something that is going to cause undue wear and/or damage. I am leaning toward Amsiol 20W50 because I can get it here and my choices are limited, but am certainly open to any and all suggesions and comments, and I trust this list more than my local dealer. Thanks, Dave

[Anita Vermaak]

I'm changing the oil and I noticed the owner's manual has a torque value for the drain plug. Do I really need a torque wrench or can I just tighten the plug "by feel"? I'm probably just being cheap but thought I'd check it out before spending the cash. If anyone who is so kind as to reply could also do so to me off list (I'll be somewhat digest impaired this weekend) I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Devon Jarvis]

Anita Vermaak wrote:

>I'm changing the oil and I noticed the owner's manual has a torque value >for the drain plug. Do I really need a torque wrench or can I just >tighten the plug "by feel"? I'm probably just being cheap but thought >I'd check it out before spending the cash. If anyone who is so kind as >to reply could also do so to me off list (I'll be somewhat digest >impaired this weekend) I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. > >

Tighten the plug by hand until it completely bottoms, then another 1/16th turn. I drilled mine for safety wire. I barely tighten it more than hand tight, and wire it. A 1/16" drill bit through the flats of the drain plug, and any stainless baling wire that fits in the hole will do. People have cracked cases, or stripped the hole, when they did it by "feel" but they didn't know how tight to go. The aluminum threads in the case are NOWHERE near strong enough to support the torque you would put on a bolt of the same size. Devon

[ron criswell]

I tightened mine with a torque wrench and stripped it. I go by feel now. Criswell Anita Vermaak wrote:

> I'm changing the oil and I noticed the owner's manual has a torque value > for the drain plug. Do I really need a torque wrench or can I just > tighten the plug "by feel"? I'm probably just being cheap but thought > I'd check it out before spending the cash. If anyone who is so kind as > to reply could also do so to me off list (I'll be somewhat digest > impaired this weekend) I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Chris]

Can anyone explain how safety wiring works? I sort of have an idea, as in drill through the head of a bolt and tie off bailing wire to 'something' to prevent it rotating?? I'm a bit confused trying to visualize what you tie off to...or I'm missing something as far as how it works. I'm guessing that with an axle nut, you would drill through the nut and axle and tie wire through the assembly, I've seen things like this. The drain plug threw me, as far as what the wire goes through to stop the rotation.

On Sat, Jun 28, 2003 at 12:46:57AM -0400, Devon Jarvis wrote: > I drilled mine for safety wire. I barely tighten it more than hand > tight, and wire it. A 1/16" drill bit through the flats of the drain > plug, and any stainless baling wire that fits in the hole will do. > -- __ ___ __ / //_(_)__ _http://www.kingsqueak.org _/ /__ / ,< / / _ \/ _ `(_-