klr650 : torque

[J. Sherlock]

Renthal XR Vintage Desert Bend is an excellent alternative. I saw one guy in Wisconsin that had the KDX blue anodized on the KLR. Said they worked fine. I've got my old handlebars around here somewhere. If I can find them, you can have them for the price of packaging and shipping. But, I'd recommend the Renthals. jim_ama585601 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[J. Sherlock]

>If so, what is a good brand to buy?

I went to a rally in Wisconsin in 2001 and met a fellow rider with a 600 that used blue anodized KDX style Renthal Bars. I have the Desert Vintage Renthal's on my KLR650. Got those from Fred. jim_ama585601 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[buzzardco2000]

A few days ago I bought a 03 KLR that was involved in an accident. The guy I bought it from put some scratched up bars from a honda on it (it looks awful) The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black bars. Is there anything cheaper that would look just as good. Motorcycle accessory warehouse (MAW) has a close out sale on some for around$35.00. I noted the dimensions on the general information page but the only metric I understand is 8-15mm wrenches,sockets etc.. Any suggestions? Thanks,Buzzard.( I would like close to a stock bar)

[wannabsmooth1]

I think you need to call Fred! arrowheadmotorsports.com Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng San Diego, Ca. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "buzzardco2000" wrote:

> A few days ago I bought a 03 KLR that was involved in an accident. > The guy I bought it from put some scratched up bars from a honda

on

> it (it looks awful) The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black

bars.

> Is there anything cheaper that would look just as good. Motorcycle > accessory warehouse (MAW) has a close out sale on some for > around$35.00. I noted the dimensions on the general information

page

> but the only metric I understand is 8-15mm wrenches,sockets etc..

Any

> suggestions? Thanks,Buzzard.( I would like close to a stock bar)

[thad_carey]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "buzzardco2000" wrote:

> A few days ago I bought a 03 KLR that was involved in an accident. > The guy I bought it from put some scratched up bars from a honda on > it (it looks awful) The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black

bars.

> Is there anything cheaper that would look just as good. Motorcycle > accessory warehouse (MAW) has a close out sale on some for > around$35.00. I noted the dimensions on the general information

page

> but the only metric I understand is 8-15mm wrenches,sockets etc..

Any

> suggestions? Thanks,Buzzard.( I would like close to a stock bar)

And you really have to watch out for the "rise" dimensions on any bar you put on a KLR. Many conventional bars will not clear the fuel tank at full bar lock--ouch. The rise must be reasonably high to get this clearance, so be careful in your selection. The suggestion of checking with Fred at Arrowhead is a good one. He will obviously know the rise requirements of any KLR setup. Thad Carey A15 (at Barbie's house)

[mwl_95623]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "buzzardco2000" wrote: snip

>The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black bars. > Is there anything cheaper that would look just as good.

snip

> I would like close to a stock bar

Do not pay $87 for stock replacement bars! I'd recommend getting either the Renthal ATV Race or Suzuki Quadracer if you want stock dimensions. Matt

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "buzzardco2000" wrote:

> A few days ago I bought a 03 KLR that was involved in an accident. > The guy I bought it from put some scratched up bars from a honda on > it (it looks awful) The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black

bars.

> Is there anything cheaper that would look just as good. Motorcycle > accessory warehouse (MAW) has a close out sale on some for > around$35.00. I noted the dimensions on the general information

page

> but the only metric I understand is 8-15mm wrenches,sockets etc..

Any

> suggestions? Thanks,Buzzard.( I would like close to a stock bar)

First of all, get "stock bars" out of your mind. THEY SUCK! They bend very easily, and you'll likely just end up replacing them again. I went with the Renthal bars (Fred would know which ones) and I love them. I laid down both bars next to each other when I had them off of the bike, and they look very very close to the same bend. I have thrown my bike down the road twice, once at 45mph on the left side, and once at 25mph on the right side. The Renthals stayed perfectly straight, and still are. They cost just about the same amount as the stockers do, and they look way better on the bike. The silver metalflake look of the Renthals, matches the frame paint pretty closely. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special) MrMoose

[bigfatgreenbike]

k.saltzer@... wrote:

>--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "buzzardco2000" > wrote: > > >> The dealer wants $87.00 for the stock black >> >> >bars. > > > >First of all, get "stock bars" out of your mind. THEY SUCK! >

I'll second this. There are many other brands, and MANY other bends, out there that will fit the KLR using the stock cabling. So since you are about to spend a little bit of $$$ you should think about the riding position and if you're happy with it. CR-hi desert bend renthals are nearly stock dimensions, MUCH stronger, and the aluminum seems to soak up a little bit of engine vibration. Take the same opportunity to get different grips since the stock ones aren't great AND are glued on (you'll have to hack them off the clutch side). Renthals are usually $85, except unlike the bars your dealer is offering they are worth the money. Renthal bars for a Yamaha Raptor ATV give more rise and pullback. MSR Dominator bars have similar dimensions, but are steel and cost $35 or so. These are the few examples I have direct experience with, there's a lot out there. -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

[Don Kime]

Buzzard, millimeters divided by 25.4 = inches; i.e., 13mm 25.4 = 0.51" inches X 25.4 = millimeters Happy New Year & Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/ At 02:10 AM 12/27/03 +0000, Buzzard wrote:

> I noted the dimensions on the general information page >but the only metric I understand is 8-15mm wrenches,sockets etc.. Any >suggestions? Thanks,Buzzard.( I would like close to a stock bar) > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > >To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_klr650/ > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[GW De Lacey]

In previous posts I've commented on the lack of vibration on my C model. Well, I've found out why. Trying to install a set of Rally- pros, I decided to start on the RHS. Removed the clutch grip, and noticed a heat mark on about the last quarter inch of the handle. Closer examination revealed that the end of the bar had been brazed closed. Ah well, says I, I'll only lose a bit of the handlebar if I cut that brazed bit off, so what the hell. A couple of Dremel cut off wheels later, I decided that this was a job for the trusty old hack saw. I cut through something hard, and found that there was a steel rod that was brazed into the handle bar. I had cut through the brazing, so it came out easily. I installed the Ascerbis guard - bewdy, no more broken brake levers for me. On the other side, I decided that the way to go would be to cut below the braze mark with the Dremel, but only through the wall of the handlebar. Trouble was, no braze mark! Ah well, says I, if I cut a quarter inch below the end of the handle bar, I'll be sweet. Two hours and 5 cut-off wheels later, I now have a handlebar that's an inch shorter on that side, and that rod is still there as solid as ever. Seems these weights were the reason for the low vibration, the RHS was brazed in and the LHS was epoxied all the way! I need a new handlebar now. I might as well get the best, so any suggestions as to which way to go? -- GW