safety

[monahanwb]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Trev" wrote:

> As much as I hate saying oil on the list....... > Just hit the 6K mile mark on the '02 and am wondering is it normal

to

> have to put a half quart (or more) of oil in this thing every other > tank of gas. I am on the freeway most of the time riding 2 up

going

> 70-80mph but

Wide open running seems to be where the KLR burns the most oil - not surprising. A friend of mine has one he bought with ony 11000 on it and it was burning more than that, mostly running on the open road. His philosophy? Oil is cheap. Another guy I knew took the piston out of his and couldn't get one of the rings all the way out of the groove - piece of broken ring stuck in the groove - welded in there, actually. I agree, though. Oil IS cheap. For now, anyways.

[googam]

Man, what kind of engine rebuild did you do to get that kind of oil burning? Lee __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

[Bill Emmack]

Ummmm... do you mean "man, what kind of sweet engine rebuild did you do to get such a sweet oil burning rate?" Or do you mean, "whoh, suck dude! your bike's burning hella oil, yo! I'd get that sh*t fixed soon." 'Cause I'm losing/burning oil at about 1 qt. every 500 miles or so. But I thought I read somewhere in the FAQ that some oil burning was kinda normal on older KLR's. Should I be worried? BE SF, A9, ~36,000mi. --- googam wrote: [replying to someone else who had oil level fall from top to bottom of window w/in 1500 miles]

> Man, what kind of engine rebuild did you do to get > that kind of oil burning? > Lee >

__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

[Bill Watson]

Bill, KLR's burn some oil, especially when ridden at high rpm all day. But 500 miles to a quart? That sure sounds excessive. Heck, when a 8-cylinder car gets to that kind of burn rate, it's usually time for a rebuild. And this is a ONE cylinder burning as much? Sounds like a lot. If it's a leak, that's a different story. Bill Phoenix ------------------ From: Bill Emmack 'Cause I'm losing/burning oil at about 1 qt. every 500 miles or so. But I thought I read somewhere in the FAQ that some oil burning was kinda normal on older KLR's. Should I be worried? BE SF, A9, ~36,000mi. ------------ I'm __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Hagen]

Quote.... "I've noticed that oil consumption in the KLR is like girls, some do and some don't" Yes, BUT it is the REVERSE, come on guys, we LIKE the girls that DO? In FACT, who cares how much oil your KLR uses, if you are lucky enough to got the girl that DOES! Oil is CHEAP! Mike Crestline, Ca. A18 - eBay Red

[patch]

I had previously posted an oil level question>>I am using a half qt every 150 miles. When I rev the engine I do see blue smoke and now seem to be getting a loud backfire on deceleration. I had bought my KLR 96 model with 6600 miles and and according to previous owner had reworked the head and put in new rings. Any suggestions for a solution>>how do you do a compression ck? How much compression should it have? Thanks I "There is no defeat, except in no longer trying. There is no defeat, save within, no really insurmountable Barrier, save our own inherent weakness of purpose" "Elvert Hubbard" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

If I understand this correct you bought a 96 model with 6600 miles, and the owner had already put in rings and "reworked the head"? I hope you only paid $500 for the bike, because this sounds like a clear DPO "dipsh*t previous owner" case. Problem could be anything. Incompetence sometimes knows no limits. You are about to rebuild the entire top end of the bike. Previous owner probably ran the bike out of oil, siezed it, opened it up, did a 5 minute hone job on the cylinder, scuffed up the piston with some 400 grit, put in new rings, and offed the bike on to you. Consider parting out the bike, and buy another one. If the guy is this bad, figure you are about to find more surprises. Cut your losses now, before you spend bucks fixing this turd. Just my take on this. Jeff A20 In a message dated 5/11/2008 1:24:03 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, barry_h56@... writes: I had previously posted an oil level question>>I am using a half qt every 150 miles. When I rev the engine I do see blue smoke and now seem to be getting a loud backfire on deceleration. I had bought my KLR 96 model with 6600 miles and and according to previous owner had reworked the head and put in new rings. Any suggestions for a solution>>how do you do a compression ck? How much compression should it have? Thanks I "There is no defeat, except in no longer trying. There is no defeat, save within, no really insurmountable Barrier, save our own inherent weakness of purpose" "Elvert Hubbard" [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kerry Stottlemyer]

Go to the file section and read the "leak down tester" instructions. A compression test is in order but if you want to save the bike you need to know exactly what is out of spec. My recommendation would be to remove the entire engine from the bike. and completely disassemble. then send your cylinder to Schnitz racing and have it fiited for a 705CC piston kit Buy the kit and have Schnitz racing do the cylinder work little over 600 bucks then buy a bearing kit and clutch kit and have fun. Now the reason behind all this work. First you need a new piston running in a good cylinder, Two if the DPO did in fact run the engine dry you will need new bearings and a clutch. Three if you ever wanted more power out of that engine well here's your chance

> I had previously posted an oil level question>>I am using a half qt every > 150 miles. When I rev the engine I do see blue smoke and now seem to be > getting a loud backfire on deceleration. I had bought my KLR 96 model with > 6600 miles and and according to previous owner had reworked the head and put > in new rings. Any suggestions for a solution>>how do you do a compression > ck? How much compression should it have? > > Thanks > > I > > "There is no defeat, except in no longer trying. > > There is no defeat, save within, no really insurmountable > > Barrier, save our own inherent weakness of purpose" > > "Elvert Hubbard" > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family > favorites at AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[kjedick]

My KLR 09 likes to drink oil and according to Kawi, a quart every 1000 miles is OK. My drinks (burns out) about a 1 Quart and 5 oz. every 1000 miles. Kawi also said this was acceptable . Bike runs great. I commute 70+ miles round trip on a combination of rural roads (34 miles @ 65/70 mph), City streets (24 miles of stop and go @ 35 mph) and dirt roads (12 miles of dirt roads @ 45 mph). Bikes has had this problem from day one. (Current mileage10785 miles ) No Mods just farkle. HT Crash guards and Panniers. I guess I'm looking for some advice on what my next move should be to resolve this issue. Ken Colorado

[Jeffrey]

09s are not supposed to guzzle oil like the 08s. Your 09 shouldn't guzzle oil like that for at least 40k or 50k if you took care half decent car of it. My 04 with 31k on it guzzles less than half that. You could use thicker oil but then you wouldn't be able to start it on cold mornings. There are also automotive additives for high mileage engines with compression issues. However, you should first do a compression test. Compression Measurement Thoroughly warm up the engine so that the oil between the piston and cylinder wall will help seal compression as it does during normal running. Stop the engine, remove spark plug and attach compression gauge (special tool) into spark plug hole. *Most automotive compression testers dont seem to come with the right sized adapter for the KLR plug. Make sure you have one that matches your plug before starting. *put a little oil on the threads of the tester/adapter and sealing O-ring. This will keep the O-ring from getting ripped. With the throttle fully open, turn the engine over until the compression gauge stops rising; the compression is the highest reading obtainable. Compression Specifications for the KLR650 77-124PSI 530-855KPA 5.4-8.7KG/CM2 performed a few tests this morning. These were performed to see the difference if the factory method is not followed. I did not remove the KACR spring to test that option soley on testers lazyness. The manual does not ask to have that done anyway. Here are the results on a "fresh" 685 set at stock compression ratio. The cylinder head condition is unknown, it's the typical Ebay "low milage" gem. Here goes... Hot "by the book" -110psi Hot throttle closed - 80psi Cold open throttle - 95psi Cold no throttle -75psi Engine "hot" was with the engine run until the cooling fan cycled on and off twice. Engine cold was performed first with the engine at an ambient temperature of 65 degees F. RPM on the starter 360RPM (on a Vapor tach) throughout testing. Jeffrey #3