who wants my klr

DSN_KLR650
Dennis Griffin
Posts: 36
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2001 7:54 am

valves check max or min clearence ?

Post by Dennis Griffin » Wed Sep 16, 2009 6:51 pm

The seat face of the valve and the valve seat in the head are the only items that would normally receive appreciable wear or dimensional change (through peening & erosion). Not the cam bearings, journals, lobes, buckets, shims or the end faces of the valve stems. So, with the valve heads settling into the valve seats, the ends of the valve stems will be coming closer to the base circle of the cam lobe, over time, as seen through the valve actuating bucket and shim. This happens more on the exhaust valves since the hot combustion gasses are passing the valve heads & seats, without the cooling effect of the incoming air/fuel mix that the intake valves benefit from. Min & max tolerances exist because there need to be manufacturing & operational tolerances for mechanical parts to fit and operate. Using the middle of the tolerance range isn't always best. Without getting into the considerations of linear coefficients of thermal expansion and other metallurgical areas, wouldn't you want your ring gap and piston to cylinder to be as close as operationally possible? Best performance is obtained when all parameters are optimal for the existing conditions, with tolerances not too loose or too tight or too middle of the road. Finally, singles have far fewer parts than a comparable displacement multi, so fewer valve (and carb, etc) adjustments to have to make and fewer parts to go wrong or to replace at overhaul time. But, fewer parts, doing all the work? They don't necessarily have an easier time of it, just because we do. FWIW, Dennis
On Sep 16, 2009, at 3:30 PM, skypilot@... wrote: > Still doesnt make sense. As things wear out they get looser. The valve > gap should get looser as things wear out or break in. What would make > them get tighter? > > One other thing is still eating at my mind too. Performance is > calculated in the middle of all spec clearances. That means the best > performance occurs when all things are in the middle. The KLR is > easy to > work on. That is why we all like it. Why not just keep it in the > middle. > Valve clearances don't change that fast on a single that it would be > hard to keep near the middle > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

flacomert
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:30 am

who wants my klr

Post by flacomert » Thu Sep 17, 2009 10:30 am

Im selling my 2004 (A17 I think you guys call it) Its red - but it's not pretty. covered in stickers and NYC grime - I don't wash it - that's my "anti theft device" Its got 8,700 miles on it. I bought it used in October '04 Im selling because Im getting a r1200 GS the KLR has seen a lot of dirt, and fallen down a lot, in the dirt - never fallen on the street MODS progressive fork springs rear suspension was whatever you guys talked about on this list back in spring 05 - I think it was Larry Rosesseler or something like that? heavy duty shift lever I had an issue with bad gas once - could have been a little rust in the tank - not sure, but I put in a in line fuel filter and never had the issue again and have never had to replace the filter Got a new seat - again I forget the kind but it's whatever I read about on here... Tires are Conti TKC 80s Front is pretty new - rear has a few thousand miles on it I have loved this bike for 5 years... very well maintained... regular oil changes etc... If you want a service history, we can get one from the motorcycle shop at 46th and 11th avenue in Manhattan Im not putting this on Craigslist or Ebay because I wanna sell it to a KLR lover - not some douche canoe. I dont even know what to ask for it... so make a reasonable offer, and come get it in NYC and its yours. My one cavet is - you need a good answer to the eternal question.... In 50 words or less - Freebird or Stairway? jake

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests