klr in the snow on the road.

[Paul Statham]

Try looking at you front brake lever. After my bike collision with a deer the front lever need to be adjusted because the brake switch did not work. I cannot remember if it was stuck on or off. But a quick fix if that is the problem Paul ________________________________ From: raven434 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:28:16 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: rear brake-light failure I went out to look at the rear break switch connected by the spring. I played with it, tightening and loosening, and got no response from the brake/tail light. I wanted to take the spring all the way off to get the switch off, but was unsure the best way to do it, since I didn't want to bend the hook at the bottom unless I'm supposed to, and I wasn't sure the trick to getting the top of the spring out of its metal loop, either. But I did determine that the brake light is stuck ON, because when I unplugged one connector from the front brake (the connector closest to the headlight), the brake light went off and the dimmer tail light came on. When I reconnect it the brake light stays stuck on again. I do have an LED light, I believe I got it from DualStar many years ago. Its normal function for the brake is to blink several flashes and then stay solid. I have a multi-meter and am ready to troubleshoot. Valerie __________________________________________________________________ Connect with friends from any web browser - no download required. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger for the Web BETA at http://ca.messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Skypilot]

Tom I agree with the metal studs bit but you might consider a pair of cheap street tires to stud if you plan to ride roads in the winter. If you just want to snowmobile around in the back yard or on some unplowed roads then the Studded Kenda K270s are perfect. You will have plenty of grip from the studs and you will need to remove them come spring anyways. Snow on roads is tricky and not safe under any conditions but if you are hell bent on riding in it, and I do regularly, give up on the idea of dirt bike stuff and focus only on what will work on the road. More tread area means more studs. This means more of the only thing that will offer any traction on ice. Since there is always ice when there is snow you must expect it. I have had a winter beater for the last few years, an old grey market KZ550 shaft drive. It is way way not pretty but it does the trick. Regardless if you rig your bike or get a winter beater try the following. These tips have worked well for me for a few years now -Synthetic oil. Until the oil is warmed up regular oil will not flow. That's bad for your engine! -Synthetic racing fork oil, low viscosity! You wont ride aggressively anyways in the winter. Again oil doesn't flow and in this case you will blow the fork seals on the first big bump with regular fork oil. If you get good at it you will be able to change it quickly in the spring and fall. -Use a Lubeman or other oiler with synthetic oil for your chain, use it a lot! Road grime will eat away at it fast in wet winter road conditions. Synthetic oil keeps it lubed and rinses crud off. -Gear up or get to higher gear quickly! Less torque to the road means the tire is not trying to break free. -Expect ice around every corner. -Keep two garbage bags with you. One for the handle bar and one for the seat. When you get out of work or a restaurant your bars wont be icy from the weather you didn't expect. -Put more chain oil on! -Use a 2 gallon garden sprayer with water to rinse the bike each day and hose it down regularly with wd40 or some other protectant. Leave the sprayer filled and in the house so it is ready each day when you return. Don't leave it in the garage or it will be a 2 gallon ice cube. -Inspect the tires a lot to be sure you don't loose studs. I mean a lot!!! The area you lost them in may be where the tire is down when you need to stop. No studs, no stop, someone goes boom. That's bad too. -They have hoods with neck warmer sections that are wind proof, found mine at a kiosk in the mall. Use it backwards pulling hood down in front. Stick it under the chin strap to keep neck and chin warm. $15-20 bucks that goes a long ways!!! -All riding gear must be 100% water proof. Failure to do this will kill you since one good splash will turn into hypothermia by the time you get home. Shaking hands don't control bikes well and your reaction times slow down more than you would believe before you begin to shiver. -If you plan to go with Electric gear remember this. If it stops working you will have to stop. A good snowmobile suit doesn't blow fuses. -Now go put some more oil on your chain! Happy winter trails! Chris

>> I would appreciate any tips on riding the KLR in the snow >>on the road if you got em. >> >>such as tire pressures etc. >> >>Thanks >>Tom >>SW Pennsylvania >If you're talking "real snow": aggressive tires, 22psi, studs. >If you're talking 2" or less and temps of 30F or above, just air down >your Kenda K270s to 25psi. >Be gentle on the brakes, and watch the speed in corners. >The above is what I did for years in central PA; your mileage may vary. > >Mark