One thing I think a lot of people saying "buy a Fluke!" are missing is that for many of us, 12v DC is the max we'll ever see on our VOM. I live in an apartment. If something electrical breaks in my apartment, I call maintenance. At work we have Flukes for dealing with the power supplies in our gear, as well as a lot of other very expensive equipment (a storage oscilloscope, a multi-channel logic analyzer, etc.), but on a personal basis I need to be able to check that my battery has voltage, that the voltage is getting from point A (beginning) to point B (end) of the new wire I just ran, and that I have continuity from point A to point B of a fuse. I also have a need for a small/compact VOM to go into my tool kit, one where, if it gets broken from bouncing around offroad, I'm not heartbroken. In short, there's a place for $100+ Fluke meters. But there's also a place for the $5 Harbor Freight special. It goes into the tool kit that's permanently in place in my Jeep and stays there in case I need it when I'm 50 miles from civilization. I simply am not going to put a $100+ VOM into that situation, that would be ridiculous. (I have an old Radio Shack pen-type for the KLR toolkit, same deal applies). _E> My living is made as a maint. mech/elect. > I own a fluke 112 , 87V multi-meters and 337 ampmeter. None cheap. > So the old man has a harbor freight model. very clean . no use. > The test lead broke in my hand this very morning! Just below the > raised finger guard. > Thank goodness I was only checking continuity on a 220v scrap cord > and male plug.
klr250 tires, chain, sprockets?
-
E.L. Green
- Posts: 639
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:36 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote:
-
Greg May
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:01 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
Seems like the multimeter thread has taken on a life of it's own almost like a good tire or oil thread... 
.... so since I tossed in my 2 cents before I may as well go for a .05 eh...Most of my meters are Flukes, ranging from a 12 and an 89 which are my everyday meters to a ScopeMeter and a FlukeScope and several clamps I can't remember the model numbers of, of these the 12 is the only one I paid for. I also own or use a variety of RCC, Hioki, Amprobe and Greenlee multimeters and clamps. These run in price from about 80 bucks to somewhere I believe over 3000 for the FlukeScope. I also have a couple cheap meters that I never paid for, free from various vendors that I kept because they have specific functions on them, one for example I remember has a port on it for checking transistors, I can't remember the last time I used any of the cheap ones. If you have 2 meters in your box, a cheap on and a good one why would you even consider using the
cheap one and come t think of it wouldn't the price of six 5 dollar meters buy 2 like Jeff suggested. I guess that qualifies me as being one of the pro Fluke guys eh. I will say that the Fluke 12 is the ideal meter for anyone, you can set it to an ohm scale and connect it to 600 volts and rather then blow up it will beep and switch to reading voltage, I actually had a millwright frantically come get me one day because he had checked for voltage to see if he had locked out the right section of a piece of production machinery, forgotten to disconnect his meter before he powered up after he was finished and while carefully trying to remove the leads managed to knock it into an open water tank, when I arrived it was still connected laying it about 18 inches of water happily reading whatever the voltage was it was connected to, we removed it took it apart and dried it out and as far as I know it is still being used. That being said I really don't like
the Fluke 12 very much....again just my opinion.
What I tried to say in my earlier post was, the most important feature for me in any meter was how safe it was to use, the highest voltage I would measure live would be on a corona treater somewhere around 2500 volts @ if I remember right 20 kHz. This is done using a Fluke 89 and a 1000/1 high voltage probe, 600 volts is an everyday voltage for me. Safety needs to be my first concern. To do a quick resistance check on a wire or fuse or to measure 12 volts on a circuit anything will work, truthfully for me I prefer to use continuity testing as a last line of fault finding an prefer the power on so a test light is usually my first choice when I work on bike/car wiring. I would never and I mean never use the amp or milliamp function on a cheap meter. I agree that the12 volts present on your KLR or car is pretty unlikely to kill you but the unfused shunt circuit used in a cheap multimeter for current measurements has no resistance, check it with a
second meter if you don't believe me, and connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current like your battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, but if you do take pictures.
From a functional point of view for even simple shop use if it was going to be my only meter I would never consider a meter without diode check, a min/max function, a properly fused amp function and at least a Cat1 rating. The other functions that certainly come in handy are a back lit display and true RMS capability as well as a zoom bar rather then just a digital display. I checked out the meter that Jeff mentioned and saw on the sears site for I believe 50 some dollars a true RMS meter that I believe had most of what I mentioned above along with a Cat3 600 volt rating. Seems like it would do all most people would need and more and do it safely.
In the end it boils down to what you are comfortable with, pretty much the same as tires and oil eh...... One thing I do disagree with though is comparing a cheap meter with a cheap wrench, I have my share of cheaper wrenches and they all do serve a purpose, even my 3 torque wrenches probably never cost much more then $100. To me the difference for example if I know I'm going to use one of the torque wrenches I occasionally take it to work and test it at the torque I'm going to use it at against one of the shop torque wrenches that has been calibrated, so far they have always been as far as I can tell right on. Accuracy even on a cheap multimeter is probably no a real issue for work on a KLR, and used only on 12 volts with proper care neither is safety but for me at least the extra functions and convenience of a better meter are well worth the extra cost....just my opinion and hopefully I haven't put anyone to sleep....have a great evening
Greg
n Mon, 8/25/08, wingerr wrote:
From: wingerr
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NKLR, OT, Multimeter On Sale SATURDAY
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Received: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:35 AM
.... so since I tossed in my 2 cents before I may as well go for a .05 eh...Most of my meters are Flukes, ranging from a 12 and an 89 which are my everyday meters to a ScopeMeter and a FlukeScope and several clamps I can't remember the model numbers of, of these the 12 is the only one I paid for. I also own or use a variety of RCC, Hioki, Amprobe and Greenlee multimeters and clamps. These run in price from about 80 bucks to somewhere I believe over 3000 for the FlukeScope. I also have a couple cheap meters that I never paid for, free from various vendors that I kept because they have specific functions on them, one for example I remember has a port on it for checking transistors, I can't remember the last time I used any of the cheap ones. If you have 2 meters in your box, a cheap on and a good one why would you even consider using the
cheap one and come t think of it wouldn't the price of six 5 dollar meters buy 2 like Jeff suggested. I guess that qualifies me as being one of the pro Fluke guys eh. I will say that the Fluke 12 is the ideal meter for anyone, you can set it to an ohm scale and connect it to 600 volts and rather then blow up it will beep and switch to reading voltage, I actually had a millwright frantically come get me one day because he had checked for voltage to see if he had locked out the right section of a piece of production machinery, forgotten to disconnect his meter before he powered up after he was finished and while carefully trying to remove the leads managed to knock it into an open water tank, when I arrived it was still connected laying it about 18 inches of water happily reading whatever the voltage was it was connected to, we removed it took it apart and dried it out and as far as I know it is still being used. That being said I really don't like
the Fluke 12 very much....again just my opinion.
What I tried to say in my earlier post was, the most important feature for me in any meter was how safe it was to use, the highest voltage I would measure live would be on a corona treater somewhere around 2500 volts @ if I remember right 20 kHz. This is done using a Fluke 89 and a 1000/1 high voltage probe, 600 volts is an everyday voltage for me. Safety needs to be my first concern. To do a quick resistance check on a wire or fuse or to measure 12 volts on a circuit anything will work, truthfully for me I prefer to use continuity testing as a last line of fault finding an prefer the power on so a test light is usually my first choice when I work on bike/car wiring. I would never and I mean never use the amp or milliamp function on a cheap meter. I agree that the12 volts present on your KLR or car is pretty unlikely to kill you but the unfused shunt circuit used in a cheap multimeter for current measurements has no resistance, check it with a
second meter if you don't believe me, and connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current like your battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, but if you do take pictures.
From a functional point of view for even simple shop use if it was going to be my only meter I would never consider a meter without diode check, a min/max function, a properly fused amp function and at least a Cat1 rating. The other functions that certainly come in handy are a back lit display and true RMS capability as well as a zoom bar rather then just a digital display. I checked out the meter that Jeff mentioned and saw on the sears site for I believe 50 some dollars a true RMS meter that I believe had most of what I mentioned above along with a Cat3 600 volt rating. Seems like it would do all most people would need and more and do it safely.
In the end it boils down to what you are comfortable with, pretty much the same as tires and oil eh...... One thing I do disagree with though is comparing a cheap meter with a cheap wrench, I have my share of cheaper wrenches and they all do serve a purpose, even my 3 torque wrenches probably never cost much more then $100. To me the difference for example if I know I'm going to use one of the torque wrenches I occasionally take it to work and test it at the torque I'm going to use it at against one of the shop torque wrenches that has been calibrated, so far they have always been as far as I can tell right on. Accuracy even on a cheap multimeter is probably no a real issue for work on a KLR, and used only on 12 volts with proper care neither is safety but for me at least the extra functions and convenience of a better meter are well worth the extra cost....just my opinion and hopefully I haven't put anyone to sleep....have a great evening
Greg
n Mon, 8/25/08, wingerr wrote:
From: wingerr
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NKLR, OT, Multimeter On Sale SATURDAY
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Received: Monday, August 25, 2008, 3:35 AM
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > I would never recommend that any body trust thier life to a cheap > tool. > > Thats' my $.02 worth. > Realistically, there's little on the KLR that an inexpensive HF DMM couldn't do that would require an expensive one. Measuring milliohms might be one, but even that could be estimated by relative readings. The probe leads are the biggest functional difference; a nice set of longer length quality probes could easily cost ten times the cheap meter, and worth it if frequently used, but 12V measurements would be pretty unlikely to be life threatening. Accuracy of any DMM far exceeds requirements for typical KLR diags. Except: if you keep trying to use it after the low battery warning comes on. With the cheapies it'll read way off, while the quality ones will continue to read accurately until the display is too dim to see any more. So change the battery if the LO bat comes on.. For those that only need a way to measure if the battery is up to snuff or if a fuse has continuity, the $3 HF units are fine. Really no need to scare people saying they'd be lethal. If probing high voltage live circuits, it'd be a good idea not to use a probe that pulled apart, of course. I have a Fluke 88 along with a half dozen HF ones, and I usually reach for what's at hand, which will work fine. __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
smthng else
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:43 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
On 8/25/08, Greg May wrote: >connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current like your >battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, but if >you do take pictures. Er.. That's twice I think you've tried to say whatever it is you're saying about cheap meters and I'm still not buying whatever you're selling. It could be that I'm just not understanding it. You keep using the battery as an example and stating that it will blow a cheap meter. I use a meter to test the battery all the time. If it's not putting out 12.6 volts at rest, smthng is probably wrong. I don't know of any way to test that other than putting a meter on it or wiring in a Datel (which is really just a simple meter). I tried getting my neighbors kid to touch the wires to his tongue, but that only worked once. :S Why have none of my cheap meters (which is all I buy) blown up? If I'm just really really lucky that none have blown up, how else does one test a battery? In my world, a meter isn't smthng I use a lot, so it get's "put away", possibly not to be found again for a year or two. Which means if I need a meter, I'm probably just going to go get another $7 ratshack special. I also drop them, run over them, kick them accidentally, etc. I'd be a wee bit torqued if that happened to a $100+ meter. I can also fit a $7 special cheapie on the bike and I really don't care what happens to it. None of my cheap meters have ever died due to this treatment... they just get uglier.--Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes Springfield, VA 2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS - "Blue Bayou" 2006 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - "Teflon" 2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - It's here, but it hasn't earned a name yet.
-
Jeff Saline
- Posts: 2246
- Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 02:48:37 -0400 "smthng else" writes:
SNIP <><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Jonathan, What Greg said is hooking a cheap meter up incorrectly may improve your chances for an exciting experience. Hooking them up correctly isn't normally the issue. So how about hooking your inexpensive meter to the battery while it's set up to take a resistance reading and tell us what happens. Yeah, I wouldn't do that on purpose either... : ) I think there is enough mystery on this list about electrickery that many folks don't understand the difference between ohms, volts and amps. And they don't understand resistance, current and voltage measurements, how to take them and then how to correctly understand the readings. I find I use a Radio Shack digital meter in my shop for most simple voltage and resistance readings. It's the same meter I carry on/in each of my vehicles. But I have more meters available for use when the need arises. I've found if you can use the same meter all the time, when it comes time to really need it you won't be wondering how to set it up. As an example, the other day I was taking a few amp readings on Martin's bike checking heating element resistance. Then we wanted to take a quick voltage reading just to see what the battery was reading. I was using a meter I don't use very often. Of course I forgot to move the positive cable from the amp post to the volt connector. I quickly figured that out. I'm glad I wasn't using a cheap meter. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Free law school search. Click here to get info and have career success. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oFGmEEtcMjPYJnEyBwl7lMqZWhZPKmkNHEtKV17rfEhqSFm/> On 8/25/08, Greg May wrote: > > >connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current > like your > >battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, > but if > >you do take pictures. > > Er.. That's twice I think you've tried to say whatever it is > you're > saying about cheap meters and I'm still not buying whatever you're > selling. It could be that I'm just not understanding it. > > You keep using the battery as an example and stating that it will > blow > a cheap meter. I use a meter to test the battery all the time. If > it's not putting out 12.6 volts at rest, smthng is probably wrong.
-
klr6501995
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 3:39 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
Well said as usual Jeff
My first meter was a radio shack analog type back in 79 or maye 80,
grade school. First day I had it I thought I check the resistance of
the outlets in the house. Mind you this was in England. 240 volts.
meter blew up . not just the fuse.
A few years back the helper for a electrician got himself shocked on
my front patio while wiring up the porch lamp. his sears meter held
up just fine. problem was he set the meter to ~Amps. Left the probes
in the com. and + and the meter read zero.He was ok.
I bought two of harbor freight meters because for the price I couln't
buy batteries! the idea was to keep on on the bike toolkit and the
other in the truck. The one in the bike kit got funky because of a
bad solder job on the circuit board. the one in the truck got stupid
because the 9v battery leaked-corroded.
The Sears meteres do seem to be a decent buy. Many of thier meters
appear to be made by exe-tech or such..
When I wrote that I'd not trust my life to a cheap tool. Well that
applies mostly to meters and anything above 12vdc. And goes for
chinese cresent wrenches and hammers.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 02:48:37 -0400 "smthng else" writes: > > On 8/25/08, Greg May wrote: > > > > >connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current > > like your > > >battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, > > but if > > >you do take pictures. > > > > Er.. That's twice I think you've tried to say whatever it is > > you're > > saying about cheap meters and I'm still not buying whatever you're > > selling. It could be that I'm just not understanding it. > > > > You keep using the battery as an example and stating that it will > > blow > > a cheap meter. I use a meter to test the battery all the time. If > > it's not putting out 12.6 volts at rest, smthng is probably wrong. > > SNIP > > <><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><> > > Jonathan, > > What Greg said is hooking a cheap meter up incorrectly may improve your > chances for an exciting experience. > > Hooking them up correctly isn't normally the issue. > > So how about hooking your inexpensive meter to the battery while it's set > up to take a resistance reading and tell us what happens. Yeah, I > wouldn't do that on purpose either... : ) > > I think there is enough mystery on this list about electrickery that many > folks don't understand the difference between ohms, volts and amps. And > they don't understand resistance, current and voltage measurements, how > to take them and then how to correctly understand the readings. > > I find I use a Radio Shack digital meter in my shop for most simple > voltage and resistance readings. It's the same meter I carry on/in each > of my vehicles. But I have more meters available for use when the need > arises. I've found if you can use the same meter all the time, when it > comes time to really need it you won't be wondering how to set it up. As > an example, the other day I was taking a few amp readings on Martin's > bike checking heating element resistance. Then we wanted to take a quick > voltage reading just to see what the battery was reading. I was using a > meter I don't use very often. Of course I forgot to move the positive > cable from the amp post to the volt connector. I quickly figured that > out. I'm glad I wasn't using a cheap meter. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Free law school search. Click here to get info and have career success. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oFGmEEtcMjPYJnEyBwl 7lMqZWhZPKmkNHEtKV17rfEhqSFm/ >
-
smthng else
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:43 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 9:37 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > So how about hooking your inexpensive meter to the battery while it's set > up to take a resistance reading and tell us what happens. Yeah, I > wouldn't do that on purpose either... : ) Ok.. NOW that makes sense.
-
klr6501995
- Posts: 629
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2002 3:39 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
it could seem that many people are saying buy a fluke.
When it comes to the 5 dollar h.f meters they scare me.
I could see a diy er at home using that thing to check things around
the house other than 12vdc auto/bikes.
like maybe his dryer or oven, a.c unit etc.
so to answer a question is the sears meter better than the h.f
yea I'd say so. And nothing else said could ever convince me
otherwise. Looking at those sears meters I'm certain they would hold
up better in a toolkit on the road than my h.f meters did.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > > My living is made as a maint. mech/elect. > > I own a fluke 112 , 87V multi-meters and 337 ampmeter. None cheap. > > So the old man has a harbor freight model. very clean . no use. > > The test lead broke in my hand this very morning! Just below the > > raised finger guard. > > Thank goodness I was only checking continuity on a 220v scrap cord > > and male plug. > > One thing I think a lot of people saying "buy a Fluke!" are missing is > that for many of us, 12v DC is the max we'll ever see on our VOM. I > live in an apartment. If something electrical breaks in my apartment, > I call maintenance. At work we have Flukes for dealing with the power > supplies in our gear, as well as a lot of other very expensive > equipment (a storage oscilloscope, a multi-channel logic analyzer, > etc.), but on a personal basis I need to be able to check that my > battery has voltage, that the voltage is getting from point A > (beginning) to point B (end) of the new wire I just ran, and that I > have continuity from point A to point B of a fuse. I also have a need > for a small/compact VOM to go into my tool kit, one where, if it gets > broken from bouncing around offroad, I'm not heartbroken. > > In short, there's a place for $100+ Fluke meters. But there's also a > place for the $5 Harbor Freight special. It goes into the tool kit > that's permanently in place in my Jeep and stays there in case I need > it when I'm 50 miles from civilization. I simply am not going to put a > $100+ VOM into that situation, that would be ridiculous. (I have an > old Radio Shack pen-type for the KLR toolkit, same deal applies). > > _E >
-
Greg May
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:01 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
Hi Jonathan, I'll try one last time, it's no doubt my explanation that is confusing you, usually if I'm explaining meters it's to someone who uses one on a regular basis, apprentice, industrial mechanic, etc. who while they use it don't have the best practises in the way they use it.
The reason why you have never experienced any problems with a cheap meter is because you haven't connected one to a voltage source while set on an ohm or current (amp) scale. As long as you don't make this mistake you will probably safe forever. But connecting across a source like a battery, I keep going back to a battery because it is the worst case scenario as far as what can happen on a bike goes, and will you run into the biggest problems. The amp/milliamp scale on any meter has basically 0 resistance through the meter, This would be the same as connecting a length of wire directly from the negative to positive post. A good meter has a very fast acting fuse in the circuit that will at best protect the meter and you and at worse protect you. Replace the fast acting fuse with a time delay fuse and suddenly your safe meter is not much safer then your cheap one. If I need to jumper out a failed limit switch for example to allow a section of a
machine to be moved so the switch can accessed and replaced I use my meter on a current scale, the convenience of a jumper wire with the safety of the fast acting fuse in the meter. I don't endorse this practise.
For any multimeter to work on ohms or resistance the internal battery outputs a small voltage through the component you are trying to measure. The safety issue now is if you connect the meter to again the bikes battery while on an ohm scale you are in effect connecting a length of wire with a small battery in the middle across a reasonably high current source, again not pretty. Better meters simply have better protection if you should make this mistake.
I've seen many blown meters over the years, millwrights I've worked with were good for several a year till we started getting them Fluke 12's, no amp scale and protected so if you connect it to a voltage source while on a resistance scale it simple beeps and switches to a voltage scale. Digital meters seem to be a lot less impressive when they blow up then the old analog ones but I have seen at least one with the bottom blown off. This was a meter a guy brought in from home to see if we could tell him why it blew up, turns out the rotary dial where you chose the scale had broken and slipped so while the pointer was saying voltage on the outside the contacts in the inside were on a resistance setting. Was easy to find because the dial was still in place on the outside and the contacts were welded in place on the inside.
If you are very careful using your cheap meter you are probably safe, the problem is in a lot of cases the average user that buys a cheap meter for use around the house and shop from an experience point of view is probably the person at the highest risk and can benefit from having the extra safety margin provided by a better quality meter. Something else that should be considered, are the cheap meters such as the Harbour Freight meters UL, ULC or CSA approved, any electrical device sold in North America legally is suppose to carry the proper approval proving it was built to at least some level of safety.
Hopefully this isn't too long winded and does a better job of explaining why I'm not a fan of cheap meters.....have a great day....Greg
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, smthng else wrote: From: smthng else Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NKLR, OT, Multimeter On Sale SATURDAY To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 3:48 AM On 8/25/08, Greg May wrote: >connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current like your >battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, but if >you do take pictures. Er.. That's twice I think you've tried to say whatever it is you're saying about cheap meters and I'm still not buying whatever you're selling. It could be that I'm just not understanding it. You keep using the battery as an example and stating that it will blow a cheap meter. I use a meter to test the battery all the time. If it's not putting out 12.6 volts at rest, smthng is probably wrong. I don't know of any way to test that other than putting a meter on it or wiring in a Datel (which is really just a simple meter). I tried getting my neighbors kid to touch the wires to his tongue, but that only worked once. :S Why have none of my cheap meters (which is all I buy) blown up? If I'm just really really lucky that none have blown up, how else does one test a battery? In my world, a meter isn't smthng I use a lot, so it get's "put away", possibly not to be found again for a year or two. Which means if I need a meter, I'm probably just going to go get another $7 ratshack special. I also drop them, run over them, kick them accidentally, etc. I'd be a wee bit torqued if that happened to a $100+ meter. I can also fit a $7 special cheapie on the bike and I really don't care what happens to it. None of my cheap meters have ever died due to this treatment... they just get uglier.
-
Greg May
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 9:01 am
nklr, ot, multimeter on sale saturday
Hi Jeff and Jonathan, wish I had read ahead a few posts before my last post, would have saved me a couple hundred words, thanks Jeff you captured what I was trying to say...have a great evening....Greg
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, Jeff Saline wrote: From: Jeff Saline Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: NKLR, OT, Multimeter On Sale SATURDAY To: you@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Received: Tuesday, August 26, 2008, 10:37 AM On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 02:48:37 -0400 "smthng else" writes: > On 8/25/08, Greg May wrote: > > >connected improperly to a circuit capable of providing high current > like your > >battery, the meter will blow up, I don't suggest you test this one, > but if > >you do take pictures. > > Er.. That's twice I think you've tried to say whatever it is > you're > saying about cheap meters and I'm still not buying whatever you're > selling. It could be that I'm just not understanding it. > > You keep using the battery as an example and stating that it will > blow > a cheap meter. I use a meter to test the battery all the time. If > it's not putting out 12.6 volts at rest, smthng is probably wrong. SNIP <><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> Jonathan, What Greg said is hooking a cheap meter up incorrectly may improve your chances for an exciting experience. Hooking them up correctly isn't normally the issue. So how about hooking your inexpensive meter to the battery while it's set up to take a resistance reading and tell us what happens. Yeah, I wouldn't do that on purpose either... : ) I think there is enough mystery on this list about electrickery that many folks don't understand the difference between ohms, volts and amps. And they don't understand resistance, current and voltage measurements, how to take them and then how to correctly understand the readings. I find I use a Radio Shack digital meter in my shop for most simple voltage and resistance readings. It's the same meter I carry on/in each of my vehicles. But I have more meters available for use when the need arises. I've found if you can use the same meter all the time, when it comes time to really need it you won't be wondering how to set it up. As an example, the other day I was taking a few amp readings on Martin's bike checking heating element resistance. Then we wanted to take a quick voltage reading just to see what the battery was reading. I was using a meter I don't use very often. Of course I forgot to move the positive cable from the amp post to the volt connector. I quickly figured that out. I'm glad I wasn't using a cheap meter. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ Free law school search. Click here to get info and have career success. http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/Ioyw6i3oFGmEE tcMjPYJnEyBwl7lM qZWhZPKmkNHEtKV1 7rfEhqSFm/ __________________________________________________________________ Get the name you've always wanted @... or @...! Go to http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/jacko/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
dooden
- Posts: 3355
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:37 pm
klr250 tires, chain, sprockets?
No truck or trailer to get it home ?
Dooden
A15 Green Ape ( I get to ride in the truck and in the trailer )
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon
wrote:
like it may> > I'm probably about to buy a *really* trashed-out 250. It looks
not far> need a chain, sprockets, and tires just to ride it home -- and it's
the '02 650> from my home, either.
650> I sold last year. Will the sprockets fit? > > What are the tire sizes on a 250? I have some tires I took off the
> that probably have some miles left in them too. > > Thor >
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 25 guests