lower links

[Bogdan Swider]

On 10/12/06 3:13 PM, "Larry W Menefee" wrote:

> By all means go with the rear spring over stock body and replace front springs > too. That is if you wiegh more than 160lbs.

Last time I checked I'm at 153lbs. Spring works for me - no cons. I won't advise you to make the change yourself. This is coming from a guy that did it himself once and had a shop do it on another occasion. Bogdan

[hill_buster]

Thanks to all that answered. I will be buying the 500/560 rear spring from Fred as well as the front progressives. I don't do much off road and prefer secondary roads including unpaved. I am seriously thinking about going to labrador city next summer on my A15. Larry M. you mentioned in your responce to adjust sag and to reverify it in a couple of hundred Km's. How do you adjust sag? Thanks again Hill_buster

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hill_buster" wrote:

> How do you adjust sag?

For the KLR, use the preload adjuster to adjust the preload to the point where the seat sags 3" from full extension to compressed where it bears the weight of you and your luggage. Measure from the rear axle to a pint on the frame directly above it. If the bike sags too much with the stock spring at max preload, you need a stiffer spring. The Progressive fork springs may come with 2" spacers. To increase preload, make longer spacers out of PVC. Set sag to about 2.25" from fully extended to laden. You may want a spacer of 2.5 to 2.75" to achieve this. If you are going to be picking your way through rocks, you might accept a little more sag to keep the springs compliant at low speeds. If you want to be fast on rough ground, get the sag right. This is a rude approximation of the procedure. For more detail (and the right specs), look up The Patman on KLR650.net (which is a little sluggish right now) or at : http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php where he is hanging out at the moment while KLR650.net recovers fully from its crashed server. Sorry I can't just point you to a link. It is not available right now.

[RM]

On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 14:05:39 -0000, "hill_buster" said:

> I will be buying the 500/560 rear spring from Fred as well as the > front progressives. > Larry M. you mentioned in your responce to adjust sag and to reverify > it in a couple of hundred Km's. How do you adjust sag?

Unless you're a really big dude, the preload adjuster at the minimum setting will probably suffice with the 500/560 spring. Just get the front tuned to a point that feels good and ride! RM

[CLS]

I agree with previous response. Go 1" link and if you need more modify the seat. I have a 30" inseam and went 1" down works like a charm. I can't flat foot it 100% of the time but that's no big deal for me. Handles fine and plenty of clearance, Clarence. BtW you may want to lower the front end by adjusting forks in the tripple tree, again try in tiny increments a little goes a long way. Also, same goes for chopping off side stand -don't cut too much off or parking stability will be compromised.

[hill_buster]

I find it surprising that only 1 other individual has noticed lateral movement at the upper bolt connection (and this 2 years ago). Note: This is only noticed when the rear wheel is suspended from the ground. I riposted my question below as my previous question appeared to have been hijacked. More info on the topic would be nice especially if the general consensus is that the slack doesn't cause problems. Thanks Brian Posted by: "hill_buster" tsucol11@... hill_buster Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:24 pm (PDT) I just received & installed the progressive 420-1030 rear shock on my 2001 KLR. Everything was torqued to spec. I find that there is about the thickness of a washer of lateral movement at the upper bolt, I can push / pull the shock. Is this normal? The 2 (upper) side bushings are where they should be. Up & down movement appears tight. Brian