2004 klr 650 for sale! $3,750

[thad_carey]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, bigfatgreenbike wrote:

> > > ttcarey1@t... wrote: > > >--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Don Kime wrote: > > > > > > > >> In my case, the > >> > >> > >interest is > > > > > >>not so much on changing a tire, but on patching or changing a

tube

> >> > >> > >if > > > > > >>necessary. > >> > > Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead > >breaker. > > > > I have had tires that were extremely difficult to get off, usually

an

> MT21. Driving around with the valve core out will get one bead

loose,

> but to get the other one off the rim I had to run over the tire

with an

> automobile, and stomp on the other side of the wheel while it was

pinned

> under the car. > > I've realized later, that with the tire warmed up (fron riding a

flat

> for even a minute or two) you can jam two tire irons between the

rim and

> the bead, then push them apart from each other, levering a tiny

part of

> the bead loose. Then you just work your way around. If one side of

the

> bead is already off, this should finish it. > > > -- > Devon > Brooklyn, NY > > A15-Z '01 KLR650 > '81 SR500 cafe racer > > "The truth's not too popular these days....." > > Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

Ouch, Devon, don't tell me that about these MT21s--just put a set on this afternoon. I can see myself now on some jeep road near Death Valley in a couple of weeks looking for some 4-wheeler to drive over my tire to break the bead. I haven't run across one yet that I couldn't do by hand, or foot, or pushing/prying with a tire iron-- still all by hand basically. Has something changed in the bead construction on these DOT tires in the last few years. Until last June, I'd been out of motorcycles since about '98. These MT21s went on fairly easily today, and the OEM Dunlops came off super easy. It was nearly 70 degrees outside today, and it was about 75 in my shop. Maybe that helped. I saw that pic of your KLR in the ice and snow. Now that'd be some fun roadside flat fixing conditions. I'll bet any DOT tire would be like a brick. Thad Carey A15 (Barbie hates flats)

[rsanders30117]

I'm no expert on the subject & I use a big C-clamp for my bead breaker. I've found that as you begin to break the bead, if you squirt some "Armorall" in the crack between the tire bead & the rim, it will act as a penetrating lubricate. This will help break the bead loose.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Lujo Bauer wrote: > >> Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead > >>breaker. > >> > > > > > > I have had tires that were extremely difficult to get off, usually an > > MT21. Driving around with the valve core out will get one bead loose, > > but to get the other one off the rim I had to run over the tire with an > > automobile, and stomp on the other side of the wheel while it was pinned > > under the car. > > > > I've realized later, that with the tire warmed up (fron riding a flat > > for even a minute or two) you can jam two tire irons between the rim and > > the bead, then push them apart from each other, levering a tiny part of > > the bead loose. Then you just work your way around. If one side of the > > bead is already off, this should finish it. > > My rear Karoo was difficult enough to take off that I definitely > wouldn't want to tackle it on the road (or trail) without a bead > breaker. Oh, I imagine I could get it off if it was really necessary, > but not without perhaps dropping the bike on it in various ways and > hating every minute of the process. > > -Lujo

[thad_carey]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117" wrote:

> I'm no expert on the subject & I use a big C-clamp for my bead > breaker. I've found that as you begin to break the bead, if you > squirt some "Armorall" in the crack between the tire bead & the

rim,

> it will act as a penetrating lubricate. This will help break the > bead loose. > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Lujo Bauer wrote: > > >> Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead > > >>breaker. > > >> > > > > > > > > > I have had tires that were extremely difficult to get off, > usually an > > > MT21. Driving around with the valve core out will get one bead > loose, > > > but to get the other one off the rim I had to run over the tire > with an > > > automobile, and stomp on the other side of the wheel while it

was

> pinned > > > under the car. > > > > > > I've realized later, that with the tire warmed up (fron riding

a

> flat > > > for even a minute or two) you can jam two tire irons between

the

> rim and > > > the bead, then push them apart from each other, levering a tiny > part of > > > the bead loose. Then you just work your way around. If one side > of the > > > bead is already off, this should finish it. > > > > My rear Karoo was difficult enough to take off that I definitely > > wouldn't want to tackle it on the road (or trail) without a bead > > breaker. Oh, I imagine I could get it off if it was really > necessary, > > but not without perhaps dropping the bike on it in various ways

and

> > hating every minute of the process. > > > > -Lujo

Armorall...it's what's for dinner. Well, actually it's what's for tire changing. We started using Armorall years ago at the motorcycle shop I worked at for lots of tire changing issues--this was in the old days before most shops got machinery to make the job easier. It's also one of the best bead seating aids around. There's hardly a tire around that won't seat it's bead with an application of the stuff and a little more pressure--just watch out for Armorall in the eyes on a troublesome bead when it finally seats like a shotgun and hydraulics out the excess juice. I've noticed one downside. On some tire/rim situations, applying Armorall to install a new tire can make it very hard to keep a tire iron where you want it and for the tire to stick to the rim, when you want it to stick, as you work the bead into the rim valley. I usually don't apply Armorall to the bead until I get both sides over the edge of the rim on installation. Thad Carey A15 (GI Joe goes Barbie)

[Don Kime]

At 04:47 PM 1/29/04 -0500, Don Kime wrote:

>All tips greatly appreciated!

Thanks to all who responded to the "tire changing" request. I feel pretty fully prepped. A couple of trials at home, and we're ready for the trail! BTW, in place of jacks to hold the rear/front up, I've just cut two light boards which seem to work well. When the front's off the ground, make sure the bike's in 1st gear! Thanks again & Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

[bigfatgreenbike@netscape.net]

"thad_carey" wrote:

> I saw that pic of your KLR in the ice and snow. >Now that'd be some fun roadside flat fixing conditions. I'll bet any >DOT tire would be like a brick.

That's the nice thing about opposed rimlocks. I would just keep riding. Hopefully the tire would get hot about when I got somewhere convenient to work on it. Devon -- Brooklyn '01 A15-Z KLR650 '81 SR500 __________________________________________________________________ New! Unlimited Netscape Internet Service. Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Act now to get a personalized email address! Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

[hankkimball2000]

Any ideas on how to break the bead on the rear tire?....I have a Sahara 3 and can't even get close to getting it with a set of irons. Need to know just in case of a flat out in the boonies (I have a center stand) Thanks for any ideas

[Guy B. Young II - COG Tech Ed]

I used a large C clamp and a small block of wood. If stuck in the woods with another rider, use the other bike's sidestand. If stuck in the woods WITHOUT another rider, you're in deep doo-doo unless you've carried the proper tools with you in the first place. Guy -----Original Message----- From: hankkimball2000 Sent: Mar 4, 2004 11:22 AM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Tire Changing Any ideas on how to break the bead on the rear tire?....I have a Sahara 3 and can't even get close to getting it with a set of irons. Need to know just in case of a flat out in the boonies (I have a center stand) Thanks for any ideas

[Zachariah Mully]

On Thu, 2004-03-04 at 11:22, hankkimball2000 wrote:

> Any ideas on how to break the bead on the rear tire?....I have a > Sahara 3 and can't even get close to getting it with a set of irons. > > Need to know just in case of a flat out in the boonies > (I have a center stand)

Ride it. Eventually the bead will break. Z DC A5X A12X

[thad_carey]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hankkimball2000" wrote:

> > > Any ideas on how to break the bead on the rear tire?....I have a > Sahara 3 and can't even get close to getting it with a set of irons. > > Need to know just in case of a flat out in the boonies > (I have a center stand) > > Thanks for any ideas

Zach and others have touched on this, the easiest of possible methods, for getting a bead unseated. I just got a front flat on a Pirelli MT21 while I was in Anza-Borrego last month. I just carefully drove the bike a short distance while checking for the bead to unseat. Just don't hit any square-edged objects or anything at speed, and you'll find that the bead will easily unseat for ease of changing. The main caveat is just to be careful and stop as soon as you notice the bead has completely unseated. This process also seems to massage the casing a little to soften it up which makes the change easier. Good, quality DOT tires for the KLR seem to be capable of being run a fair amount while flat without damage to the tire or rim if you just don't go nuts with it. Thad Carey A15

[rsanders30117]

Use a BIG C-clamp --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hankkimball2000" wrote:

> > > Any ideas on how to break the bead on the rear tire?....I have a > Sahara 3 and can't even get close to getting it with a set of irons. > > Need to know just in case of a flat out in the boonies > (I have a center stand) > > Thanks for any ideas