product install - metric blue master cylinder screw set

[ken cefalo]

"The only gun you need to have to protect yourself from a bear attack is a small .22 pistol. When you see the bear and he's coming after you. You shot your buddy in the foot and run. Because you don't have to be fast then the bear just faster then the slowest person in your group." That is the best advice I ever heard! Don't tell my buddy JJ! Ken KLR 650 R80 GL1500 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/

[L Lovering]

My two cents worth on bear spray. 1. You don't want to get caught bringing it into Canada (last I heard). Apparently they caught a couple of cyclists with some and banded them from Canada for 5 years. 2. If spraying the bear doesn't work you could try hitting it on the nose with the empty can. I have a friend who lives out west and there was a Forest Ranger who survived (barely) a bear attack using that method. And lastly, I do carry it when camping since up here we don't have the option of toting a hand gun. Lesley A19 Great White North [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

And if you're 500 miles from a tree it's a polar bear. Ever do a room to room search of a lodge to see if the polar bear is still in there? Much more exciting that trying to catch a mouse under the sink..... Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:

>SNIP > I carry my food in a bear canister, don't eat in my tent, etc. -- and > have never had an up-close-and-personal experience with a bear. I've > had a bear tear into the hard luggage on my KLR while it sat at the > trailhead (I was camped miles away to where I'd backpacked to a lake), > but all I did when I got back was pick the bike back up (he'd knocked > it over), bungee the luggage back together, cranked it up, and rode > home. (Note: I have a "check valve" of sorts in my gas tank vent hose > to prevent it from losing more than a tablespoon or so of gas when it > falls over, don't try this at home without one). >

Hi Eric, I can't say that I can smell the bear spray, but I think I can smell some 'usable' farlke. Would you share with us the part#, source, and perhaps a picture of this checkvalve? revmaaatin. PS. Speaking of camp hygine, within the past two years, someone had a bear bite the can of WD-40 (chain lube) that was on his bike. Was that you?

[Dennis Shell]

This city boy decides to go grizzly bear hunting on day. He graps his fathers old 30-30 and heads into the hills to get a bear. Middle of the day, he spots this big old bear sunning himself on a rock, so the city boy sights in , pulls the trigger and BOOM, the gun goes off and the bear is off the rock. The boy walks up to the rock, looking for the bear but doesn't see anything. Then he gets this tap on the shoulder and he turns around to see the bear. The bear looks at him and says " you tried to kill me so now, either, you can bend over that rock and I'll have my way with you or I'm going to maul you to death." .Well, not wanting to die, our friend bends over the rock. Walking out of the woods, sore, humiliated and very angry, his first stop is a gun shop.The city boy tells the owner he needs a better hunting rifle. the owner sells him a 7mm mag. The next day the angry city boy walks into the woods looking for the bear. He spots the bear on the same rock. He takes carefull aim, squeezes the trigger and BOOOM. The smoke clears and he walks over to the rock but no bear. About that time he feels a tap on his shoulder. Sure enough, the bear is standing behind him. The bear says " So, you thought you'd try it again, well, you know what your choices are". So once again our friend is heading out of the woods, more sore , more humiliated and more angry. He heads to that same gun shop and yells at the owner " I thought you said this was a better hunting rifle but, it didn't work any better at all !" The gun shop owner asks him " Well what are you hunting"? The city boy replies" grizzly bear" The gun owner says" Oh, why didn't you say so, Here, use this 416 Rigby, that will do it." The next day the city boy heads out to seek his revenge on this bear. He spots the bear on the same rock again. The city boy wants to be sure of his shot so he leans over a log to steady the shot, takes in half a breath, holds it, gently squeezes the trigger. BBBOOOOOMMMM. The big rifle slams back into him, knocking him down and brusing his shoulder. The city boy picks himself up, looks over at the rock and no bear. Sure that the 416 has done the job, he trots over to the rock and looks around, but, no bear. Then comes the tap on the shoulder. He turns around and looks at the bear and the bears asks him " you really aren't out here for the hunting are you"?----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Chait To: Kerry Stottlemyer ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; Moose Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 6:28 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Bear Spray

----- Original Message ----- From: "Moose" To: "Kerry Stottlemyer" ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:34 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Bear Spray > See, you guys laugh but I grew up in Alaska listening to my family telling > these stories. This couple goes up to a park ranger and tells him that they want to hike this trail but they are worried because there are both black bears and grizzly bears in the area. The rangers tells them that in order to be safe they need to wear blue ribbons and carry little bells to ring when they think bears are nearby so as not to surprise them. They ask him how they can tell when bears are nearby, and he answers that you can tell because they will see mounds of bear crap. He also tells them that if the bear crap is from black bears they don't have to worry too much, but if it's grizzly crap, they need to slowly and carefully leave the area. The couple thinks about this and asks the ranger how they can tell if the bear crap is from black bears or grizzlies. He answers................ "The grizzly crap has blue ribbons and little bells in it." ed A17 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote:

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > home. (Note: I have a "check valve" of sorts in my gas tank vent hose > > to prevent it from losing more than a tablespoon or so of gas when it > > falls over, don't try this at home without one). > I can't say that I can smell the bear spray, but I think I can smell > some 'usable' farlke. Would you share with us the part#, source, and > perhaps a picture of this checkvalve?

Free-flo Gas Cap Vent Hose W/ One Way Valve http://www.pitposse.com/frgascapveho1.html I have a piece of vacuum hose running from my fuel tank vent to where the old vacuum canister thingy used to be under my left fender, and this thing is at the end of it (I pulled off the short piece of hose on the Free-flo and plugged the "valve" part into the end of the vacuum hose). When I drop my bike, I just pick it up, pull the vent hose off my gas cap, blow any gas out of it, plug it back in, and ride off. Usually only lose a few teaspoons of gas at most. It's not really a check valve, it's a piece of fiberglass or other fibrous substance inside the "valve" part. When it gets saturated with gas, it won't allow air to backtrack to the tank, meaning a vacuum develops in the tank and won't allow gas to flow out. This assumes that the vacuum petcock on your KLR is working properly or that the petcock is turned off. All in all, a quite ingenious solution to the problem, although it probably won't work with the stock tank (I have the IMS tank).

> PS. Speaking of camp hygine, within the past two years, someone had a > bear bite the can of WD-40 (chain lube) that was on his bike. Was that > you?

Why, *yes*! He thoroughly lubed himself by drinking my motor oil and WD-40 after he tore open my luggage looking for the source of that wonderous fishy smell (the WD-40). Now *that* is a bear that didn't have trouble shitting in the woods that evening! I would have loved to see the expression on the bear's face after he crushed that WD-40 can in his jaws and it went "Whoosh!", but on second thought, I think it is better that I was six or seven miles away at the time :-}. -E

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "L Lovering" wrote:

> My two cents worth on bear spray. > > 1. You don't want to get caught bringing it into Canada (last I

heard). Apparently they caught a couple of cyclists with some and banded them from Canada for 5 years. Actually this is at the discretion of the border guard. Tell him where you're going that you might need bear spray (he'll ask you why you're coming to Canada, tell him you're heading up the Alaska Highway or whatever), tell him you have it, and ask him if he wants to confiscate it or let you in with it. He'll either confiscate it or let you through. If you have a good reason to have it, usually he'll let you through without confiscating it. Canadian border guards don't power trip like American ones. That whole "polite" thing. Try to put something over on them, though, and they get a bit, uhm, persnickety... as those cyclists found out. -E

[Arden Kysely]

WADR to CA Stu, whom I believe originated this characterization, and yourself who pointed out my mis-quote, some the fasteners on my A11 have seen enough water that the compressed oatmeal has de-compressed and returned to its natural mealy state. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > Dag Nabit.... get it right... > > thats "Compressed Oatmeal" > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Arden Kysely" wrote: > > > > Ross, > > Thanks for the tips and the play by play. You only got one thing > > wrong--you assumed that the master cylinder screws are made of metal, > > whereas the List has long known that several KLR screws, and those in > > particular, are made of oatmeal. 8~) My advice for anyone attempting > > this operation is start with an application of Kroil or another > > penetrant. Come back the next day and have at it. Also, before I go > > to the drill on a burgered Philips head, I try the centerpunch and/or > > cold chisel methods. Glad you were able to get them out without > > wrecking anything or throwing any tools! > > > > __Arden > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ross Lindberg" > > wrote: > > > > > > I know what you are thinking. How bored can this guy be to write > > about > > > installing a couple of screws? Well it got a little interesting, > > so here > > > goes. > > > > > > > > > > > > While ordering some parts from our man Fred, I saw he had Metric > > Blue > > > replacement screws for the front brake master cylinder. While > > researching > > > upgrading my brakes I had heard reports of others draining their > > brake fluid > > > to install stainless steel brake lines and then being unable to > > remove the > > > master cylinder screws. Something like that can really ruin your > > day. The > > > factory uses countersunk screws with Phillips heads. From my > > toolmaker days > > > I remembered that countersunk heads can really set themselves tight > > in their > > > holes, making removal a real pain. Upgraded screws were only 3 > > dollars, so > > > I ordered a set. > > > > > > > > > > > > Since I'm not a fan of Phillips head screws, and realizing this > > could be a > > > project I used a Snap-On screwdriver. They have some really good > > tips that > > > usually don't bugger up the screw heads. I learned that trick > > working in a > > > body shop as a kid. This isn't a job for a cheapie tool. > > > > > > > > > > > > I started on the left hand screw facing the inside of the bike. I > > figured > > > this should be an easy job. After all, the bike is practically new > > and > > > corrosion shouldn't have set in yet. Wrong! I'm a pretty big > > guy. I'm 6 > > > feet tall, 260 pounds and have a vigorous workout program at my job > > as a > > > beekeeper. That screw came out, but it was in there tight! I > > replaced that > > > screw with a Metric Blue unit and moved to the right one. I > > couldn't move it > > > with just the screwdriver, so I put a wrench on the bolster under > > the > > > handle. That will usually break them loose. Here is a little tip. > > If you > > > are going to be working on a fastener that you suspect might be > > tight, > > > especially a Phillips head, watch the tip if the tool AND the head > > of the > > > screw while cranking on it. If the tool moves and the fastener > > doesn't, > > > STOP! Don't crank any more you'll only make things worse. Not > > only was > > > this screw stuck, but the screw itself was made of soft metal. I > > could > > > actually feel the metal giving. Boy, this is getting ugly! I > > figured I had > > > one more shot at getting the screw out before resorting to drilling > > it out, > > > which I really despise. > > > > > > > > > > > > I dug in my toolbox and found my impact driver. For those of you > > who don't > > > have one, it is an inertial tool that you strike with a hammer. I > > have a > > > cheap one that I bought from Dennis Kirk about 25 years ago. Mine > > isn't > > > clearly marked as to which way it is set to turn when struck, so I > > use this > > > trick. There is a spring and cam inside the tool. Put the > > appropriate bit > > > in the tool, put the tip on a workbench and press down. You should > > see the > > > tip move either to the left or the right. Make sure the tip is > > turning in > > > the right direction, place it firmly in the stubborn fastener then > > push down > > > taking all the slack out of the spring before striking with the > > hammer. The > > > beauty of these tools is that when properly used, they will force > > the > > > screwdriver tip into the fastener while hopefully shocking the > > fastener > > > loose. While striking the impact driver, use the same trick of > > watching the > > > tool tip and fastener head to ensure they are turning in unison. > > It took 4 > > > really good whacks to break the screw loose and thankfully didn't > > screw up > > > the screw head any more than it was. I installed the other screw > > and the job > > > was finished. > > > > > > > > > > > > The point of this article is that the factory screws are very soft > > and > > > countersunk screw heads can really grip tight. The Metric Blue > > screws are > > > made of much higher grade material and feature a metric hex head > > instead of > > > a Phillips head. If you have a new bike, I think it would be a > > good idea to > > > spend 3 bucks and replace the cheap factory units before time and > > corrosion > > > take their toll. If you have an older bike and haven't changed > > them out yet > > > and are worried about what to do if the screws are stuck, hopefully > > some of > > > these tips will help. I did consider using anti-seize on the > > screws, but > > > there was some brake fluid on the threads and underside of the > > heads, so I > > > was concerned about the possibility of contaminating the brake > > fluid. > > > > > > > > > > > > As always, hoping this is of use you some of you. > > > > > > > > > > > > Ross Lindberg > > > > > > Fertile, MN > > > > > > Oakdale, CA > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > >