free: bash plate and stator

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 20:47:22 -0000 "michaeljtruel" writes:

> ---I am curious about this: Friend of mine has a 2000 model with > 120,000 miles on it with only routine maintenance and regular oil > changes. What is all this rebuilding interest based on?? mike in > OK

<><><><><> <><><><><> Mike, If that's the bike I'm thinking it is it belongs to another Mike in TX. It's probably on it's way to Guatemala right now and was also run over by a pick up truck in CO in July 2004. I think the interest in engine rebuilding is one guy has an issue with his engine and is the exception to the rule. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, a14@... wrote:

> > > The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area. > > After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the > > parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another > > liner in there and be good to go. > > > > all the best, > > > > Mike > Don't you really mean you CAN'T just throw another > liner in there and be good to go? > > Walt

Walt - you are indeed correct. Thanks for catching that!! My typo's bit me again!!! The new cylinder liner WOULD require boring and facing AFTER the install into the cylinder block. all the best, Mike

[Norm Keller]

If your piston to cylinder wall clearance is at or slightly above the high end of service clearance, you may wish to consult an automotive machine shop to see if they are able to knurl the piston. Knurling is a process which rolls a pattern into the piston skirts such that the skirt material is set up so the piston skirt diameter is increased. It is easy to illustrate this if you take the example of tapping a series of centre punch marks into a piece of metal. The thickness of the metal will be increased although the surface area will be reduced. As long as the surface area is sufficient to support the load, this is a useful technique. We used this technique routinely when refurbishing fleet engines. If the cylinder's taper and out of round are in limits or can be brought into limits by honing, knurling can be a useful technique. Note that honing requires a truing hone rather than a deglazing hone which will simply follow the existing cylinder profile. This is a strange tale because a properly deglazed cylinder which is even close to service limits should seat and seal with a new set of rings. As someone noted, excessive piston clearance may be an issue and it is possible that a bent rod may be an issue however this should be evident from inspection. I urge you to consider other possible oil consumption causes such as valve guide seals or a fault in fitting during the previous re-ring job. HIH Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kestrelfal]

I agree with the last para. of Norm's 2nd post. If you want to keep it simple and inexpensive, have an oversize piston fitted to your existing cylinder by a *proven (motorcycle) specialist* (there's a LOT of unqualified people out there! ). Assembly lube on the cylinder/rings might be a problem. Fwed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "AT" wrote: > > Here is the history since last rebuild: > > 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of running > 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or when I shut > it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about 10000 > (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250 miles. > Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it was just > BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it back > together with Lubriplate assembly lube. > > Andy > andyt59@...

[fasteddiecopeman]

Mike, Once he'd had the new sleeve installed and bored, the machinist then milled it down to flush w/ the deck rather than leave the small amount protruding, and that started some REAL problems for my pal. Hopefully I won't run into those problems myself. Cheers, Ed

> Ed, > The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area. > After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the > parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another > liner in there and be good to go. > > all the best, > > Mike >

[Andrew Tuning]

I am leaning towards the piston and rings because: 1) When they were measured, they fell within .001 of being OUT of spec (just barely in spec) 2) The cylinder head was rebuilt by a machine shop here locally that came highly reccomended by our local Kawasaki dealer and several other engine rebuilders. They installed new valves, guides and seals. Someone had previously asked what my break in period was. I used the same break in procedure that is reccomended on all new KLR's. Thanks for all the advice and offers for parts. Those that have offered me parts will be contacted within the next week. I'm going out of town this weekend to play in the snow of Cascade, ID. -Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tony JONES]

I long ago sold my KLR. These somehow never got given to the buyer. 1. Stock bash plate. Dirty but no damage. 2. Stock stator. Exciter coil is bad (failed resistance test) causing starting problems but stator itself was fine. From discussions here some folks had removed the exciter coil (it's a small thing expoxied on, not part of the main stator) and installed an aftermarket one. Looks doable but I never did as after 1 year of trying to troubleshoot, I just wanted it to work so I bought a whole new one. Anyways, thats the deal as best I know it. Both free, you pay shipping. Guessing $10 on the stator as it's heavy, $8 on the bash plate. If it's less, I'll refund diff. Paypal only, EFT/cash only (no credit/debit payments). or just mail me cash.