classifcations???? geesh!

[Doug Herr]

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005, Dooden wrote:

> Also note that if the clutch safety is disabled, it gives the ability > to start the bike in gear, say..... headed up a hill and you stall, > you can leave the bike in first gear, grab the clutch and start it, or > at a stop light if you stall, without this bypass, you must find "N".

Well... I still have all the original safeties installed and I *can* start it just fine while in gear as long as I pull in the clutch. I think many here have had the safeties bypassed so long that they don't remember what the original condition is. As to the safeties going bad, I found that mine went wonky as soon as I did some work with the brush guard by the clutch lever. One of the sets of screws there works as an adjustment for the safety switch. To get it fixed I just used a ohm meter to make sure it was on/off at the right points and all has been good ever since. Not saying that the safety switches don't every brake, but sometimes it is just that they are out of adjustment. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sun, Jan 30, 2005 at 08:01:17AM -0800, Doug Herr wrote:

> > On Sun, 30 Jan 2005, Dooden wrote: > > > Also note that if the clutch safety is disabled, it gives the ability > > to start the bike in gear, say..... headed up a hill and you stall, > > you can leave the bike in first gear, grab the clutch and start it, or > > at a stop light if you stall, without this bypass, you must find "N". > > Well... > > I still have all the original safeties installed and I *can* start > it just fine while in gear as long as I pull in the clutch. I

Right. The behaviour Dooden described was what you get if the clutch safety is *misadjusted* (which seems to be the case when many bikes leave the dealership). This nearly got me killed twice the first week I had my KLR -- then I figured out what was going on and fixed it. Sigh. Thor

[Doug Herr]

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> Right. The behaviour Dooden described was what you get if the clutch > safety is *misadjusted* (which seems to be the case when many bikes > leave the dealership). This nearly got me killed twice the first week > I had my KLR -- then I figured out what was going on and fixed it. Sigh.

Ah, good point. The "original condition" may not be the "proper" condition. Had not even thought of that. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[dooden]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> On Sun, Jan 30, 2005 at 08:01:17AM -0800, Doug Herr wrote: > > > > On Sun, 30 Jan 2005, Dooden wrote: > > > > > Also note that if the clutch safety is disabled, it gives the

ability

> > > to start the bike in gear, say..... headed up a hill and you stall, > > > you can leave the bike in first gear, grab the clutch and start

it, or

> > > at a stop light if you stall, without this bypass, you must find

"N".

> > > > Well... > > > > I still have all the original safeties installed and I *can* start > > it just fine while in gear as long as I pull in the clutch. I > > Right. The behaviour Dooden described was what you get if the clutch > safety is *misadjusted* (which seems to be the case when many bikes > leave the dealership). This nearly got me killed twice the first week > I had my KLR -- then I figured out what was going on and fixed it.

Sigh. Well.. mine was misadjusted from the dealer then. not that it matters anymore is fixed. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

I mounted a SPDP switch on the sidestand/starter relay plastic cover so that a flip and the safety switches are by-passed. This gives the best of both worlds since the safeties operate unless I need them not to. It's a simple connection. If anyone needs directions, they can be emailed. Norm

[Gerald]

This is a bit of an oddball, I think. A couple of times now, after having sat for about a week (a crime I know), I'll go to start it up, and it fires up right away (I use the choke). Runs for 2 to 3 seconds and then quits. Then it takes a crap load of cranking before it will start again, usually only if I set the choke to about half and give it a good amount of throttle. Any ideas? Oh yeah, I'm not sure on this one, but definitely the last time this happened (this am) the bike had been parked after riding through some pretty wet weather. No problems while riding though even though I have not done the carb vent t fix yet. By the way, that brings up another question, if this is a vent hose, ie. vapours coming out, can I just shove a one way valve in there to stop water from getting up in there, or is it a breather hose, ie, air going in? Thanks, Farmerger A18 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Rodney Copeland]

Air is goin out and or comin in pretty sure, depending on throttle. The main thing is to keep it open. A filter down low will get obstructed by water across the opening of the tube, through water crossins or rain from the road. Thus the reason for runnin it up under the seat with the Y mod. Rod,,,,through water almost up to the seat

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Gerald" wrote: > This is a bit of an oddball, I think. A couple of times now, after having > sat for about a week (a crime I know), I'll go to start it up, and it fires > up right away (I use the choke). Runs for 2 to 3 seconds and then quits. > Then it takes a crap load of cranking before it will start again, usually > only if I set the choke to about half and give it a good amount of throttle. > Any ideas? > > Oh yeah, I'm not sure on this one, but definitely the last time this > happened (this am) the bike had been parked after riding through some pretty > wet weather. No problems while riding though even though I have not done > the carb vent t fix yet. By the way, that brings up another question, if > this is a vent hose, ie. vapours coming out, can I just shove a one way > valve in there to stop water from getting up in there, or is it a breather > hose, ie, air going in? > > Thanks, > > Farmerger > > A18 > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dbrow10031]

hi guys '86 klr 600 just started dying, then coming back on, like you hit the kill switch. Then it began running a tiny bit rough and dying more often. Now it will give only a single hot spark to the plug each time you try to start it. My kawasaki dealer told me to change the cdi because the trigger coil and the (something else electrical) were OK. Changed the cdi with a USED one and got the exact same result. One hot spark each time its turned over. The mechanic told me I could buy a new cdi for $338.00 but here's the problem. Its impossible to really bench test the cdi and if thats not it, I can't return it. Any ideas of what to do next? I have never had a kickstand switch. Someone said it might be the stator or a small switch that is next to the stator. Someone said the trigger coil may be testing OK when it is bad because the first time it fires it is going on battery power. thanks, dan

[Donald Dickerson]

Having "grown up" (did I ever?) riding "enduros", streetable bikes with "street knobbies" that at least looked like dirt bikes, I still consider the KLR an enduro. Dual Sport? Yeah, whatever. Yeah, it's a little heavy, but nothing like my old SL450 Honda and handles better. Oh yeah, I had a 350 Kawasaki Bighorn. Heavy, wouldn't handle, had a REALLY unreliable ignition, would pretty much climb anything...but I'll take my KLR... Two wheels and a motor? It's a motorcycle! --- A Chesley wrote:

> >Note that, back in the day, there was a *LEGAL* difference between > an "enduro" bike and a "dual-sport" bike. > > > Ha ha this must be back in the day of the 80s perhaps. In the 50's, > 60's it was a motorcycle. No classification. If you wanted to race it > , you stripped it down and raced it, put the lights back on and ride > it on the street. It was a bike, cycle, scooter, motorcycle or all of > the above. We never really had a class of what's dirt and whats > street and all phases inbetween. Maybe sometimes call a strict race > bike " My race bike" . > First enduro's I seen advertised was by Yamaha in the late 60's with > thier DT1's etc. Then followed by kawa I think. Early British stuff > was at times, had a C added to the end of the model classifing it as > a Comptetion model or called a Scrambler. Some were street legal, > some not but you could get a light kit from the factory and make it > so. The true scramblers came with knobbies and straight pipes and no > lights. I had a G80 Matchbox set up like that. A good friend bought a > '59 BSA spitfire scrambler set up like that. Funny was that another > in our group back then had bought a '60 BSA Lightning < I think that > was the name. Anyway it was a full steet equiped 650 and everytime > they had a drag race at our dirt playgrounds, he would beat the > Knobby tired Scrambler. Gearing plus traction available I reckon. We > were pretty young group back then ( 16 - 20 ) and didn't try to > figure it out, just used what worked. > Back in the old flat track and scramber days we never used knobbies. > just aggresive street tires. Now most think they have to have > knobbies to drive across thier yards. .. > Now, geesh, every bike has to have a class. MX, Flattracker, 1/4 > miler, road racer, enduro, trail, dual sport, adventure , standard, > cruiser, Hondavago. Gets to be pretty funny to us old timers. > > '43 Andy in Jennings, La. > '00 KLR650 > '02 R1150GSA > for sale >

Those who fail to learn the lessons of history are doomed to repeat them. Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who didn't. "Life is either a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure." -- Helen Keller __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

[Looking for bi-fem]

I think I have seen this problem before here but can't find it in the history. This will happen at any time when I try to start. I press the starter and "nothing" no click nothing, the lights "DON'T DIM" just nothing, i press it a few times and bingo it starts. It's a 2006 with 8000 miles, this has been going on sence about 1000 miles, just lately its getting more often.