shifter /shifting

[Ernie Campbell]

Thanks Thor plenty of usefuf information here. To bad i dont have the original switch. All i have done to the bike right now thats not stock is that switch. Im just going to go over everything like you said and get a sealed battery. What do you think of the one at Arrowhead? Again i have lots of good stuff to do now Thank You. Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: "Thor Lancelot Simon" To: "Ernie Campbell" Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 1:23 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Charging Delima > On Sat, Jul 08, 2006 at 02:25:19PM -0400, Ernie Campbell wrote: >> Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week before >> i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual, level >> fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and play.When i >> say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may think.Also >> Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same problems. > > "Jim on this list" has also added quite a bit of wiring to his bike, > like you in the handlebar area where everything gets flexed a lot and > insulation faults are most common, and might have the same problem I > suspect you do: a poorly insulated wire or junction that leaks current > to ground very slowly. > > Go over every connection you've even thought about touching -- in fact, > every one you've even breathed at -- take the insulation off and wrap > with tape _twice_ _neatly_ (if it doesn't look like a lineman's insulated > splice on a telephone pole, you didn't do a good enough job) back to 2cm > or so from the actual conneciton point or, if it's a solder joint, check > the joint, then brush with liquid electrical tape, allow to dry, then > tape once thoroughly (and neatly). > > It's also possible that there's a slow leak to ground somewhere in that > aftermarket push-to-cancel turn signal switch. I have no idea where > those actually come from and I've heard some dealers selling them don't > either -- maybe they're defective parts from some other bike, it wouldn't > be the first time. Try the original switch again. > > But first, take that battery out of the bike. Top up to spec with > distilled water (or throw it away, if you ever put tap water in it), > and trickle-charge for several hours, checking that 1H after charging > the voltage of the battery is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery in > the bike, crank the bike to start, take the battery back out, check > that voltage is still well above 12V. If either of these aren't true, > your battery is toast. > > And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the bike > or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least 2000 > RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs at > least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike takes > out. > > Thor >

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 01:50:38PM -0400, Douglas Bouley wrote:

> > What are the implications of this for very slow stop and go traffic?

The KLR charging system, with the stock set of accessories, is pretty much balanced at idle RPM -- the battery should charge, or discharge, only a tiny tiny little bit. But if you have high-drain accessories like heated grips, and/or a headlight bulb with increased wattage, and you're in stop and go traffic so the fan's kicking on all the time -- it is a good idea to turn those accessories off. This is another reason why the brighter headlight bulbs with stock wattage for the *low* beam (e.g. 100/60) are a much better idea than the ones that are brighter for both high and low. Anyway, you cannot charge a KLR by letting it sit at idle. A trickle charger is the right way to go. Thor

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 06:27:14PM -0000, Jim wrote:

> In my particular case, it has nothing to do with the wiring I added. > I tapped into the KLR wiring in only 2 places...the city light > circuit and the positive terminal on the starter solenoid for battery > power. When I began having charging problems, I unhooked both > circuits so everything was back to stock, and used my multimeter to > check voltage at the battery...and it was still low.

That says precisely nothing about whether the battery was discharged to low voltage (or repeatedly, so it wouldn't hold a charge) _while_ the added wiring was in place.

> As for the "slow leak to ground" theory, thats called a short, and > even a tiny short will cause the fuse to blow.

Sorry, but that's false. Current is inversely proportional to resistance, and resistance is directly related to the size of the conductor; in the case of an insulation flaw (on a wire or at a connection between wires) the "conductor size" may be extremely small. In such a case the battery may drain while the bike is off with the total current being far less than the many amps required to blow a fuse.

[Douglas Bouley]

Thanks, Thor. I do have heated grips, so that will be something to consider when it gets cold again... and I was thinking about a little more headlight bulb, so I'll consider a higher high beam only. -doug Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 01:50:38PM -0400, Douglas Bouley wrote: > >> What are the implications of this for very slow stop and go traffic? >> > > The KLR charging system, with the stock set of accessories, is pretty > much balanced at idle RPM -- the battery should charge, or discharge, > only a tiny tiny little bit. But if you have high-drain accessories > like heated grips, and/or a headlight bulb with increased wattage, and > you're in stop and go traffic so the fan's kicking on all the time -- it > is a good idea to turn those accessories off. > > This is another reason why the brighter headlight bulbs with stock wattage > for the *low* beam (e.g. 100/60) are a much better idea than the ones that > are brighter for both high and low. > > Anyway, you cannot charge a KLR by letting it sit at idle. A trickle > charger is the right way to go. > > Thor > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > >

[Kimosabe]

I'm typo prone, sorry. I meant to type "shift lever being loose on the shift shaft from the engine". Just tighten the bolt that clamps the lever to the shaft if it is loose. Be careful not to overtighten since it is easily broken. I've broken a couple on other bikes and had to drill the lever out to use a larger, sturdier bolt with a nut to correct the problem. I've never broken the larger bolts and they tend not to loosen. -- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kimosabe" wrote:

> > I can't recall if it was mentioned that your shifting problem may

be

> due to your shift lever being loose on the shift lever from the > engine. This has been my most common cause of developing missed > shifts on many bikes. > > The missed shift problem isn't usually as noticeable on

downshifting

> since there is more strength in the action of pushing the front of > your foot down as well as more range of motion in your ankle as > compared to lifting the front of the foot up. > > Even a little bit of looseness produces slack in shifting. The > shifting problem also affected by the position of your foot on the > peg and, if you're wearing them, the stiffness of your boot in the > ankle. > > The other suggestions you received were excellent and brought up

some

> items that I hadn't considered before. > > > >

[Ernie Campbell]

Thanks Jim i hope its just the battery im stock to except that switch, plug and play. i probaly fried the battery when i charged it and i havent been able to ride it much or far , 1 acre oh well no biggie ill get it right no matter what. Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: Jim To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 2:27 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Charging Delima In my particular case, it has nothing to do with the wiring I added. I tapped into the KLR wiring in only 2 places...the city light circuit and the positive terminal on the starter solenoid for battery power. When I began having charging problems, I unhooked both circuits so everything was back to stock, and used my multimeter to check voltage at the battery...and it was still low. As for the "slow leak to ground" theory, thats called a short, and even a tiny short will cause the fuse to blow. Jim --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > > On Sat, Jul 08, 2006 at 02:25:19PM -0400, Ernie Campbell wrote: > > Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week before > > i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual, level > > fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and play.When i > > say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may think.Also > > Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same problems. > > "Jim on this list" has also added quite a bit of wiring to his bike, > like you in the handlebar area where everything gets flexed a lot and > insulation faults are most common, and might have the same problem I > suspect you do: a poorly insulated wire or junction that leaks current > to ground very slowly. > > Go over every connection you've even thought about touching -- in fact, > every one you've even breathed at -- take the insulation off and wrap > with tape _twice_ _neatly_ (if it doesn't look like a lineman's insulated > splice on a telephone pole, you didn't do a good enough job) back to 2cm > or so from the actual conneciton point or, if it's a solder joint, check > the joint, then brush with liquid electrical tape, allow to dry, then > tape once thoroughly (and neatly). > > It's also possible that there's a slow leak to ground somewhere in that > aftermarket push-to-cancel turn signal switch. I have no idea where > those actually come from and I've heard some dealers selling them don't > either -- maybe they're defective parts from some other bike, it wouldn't > be the first time. Try the original switch again. > > But first, take that battery out of the bike. Top up to spec with > distilled water (or throw it away, if you ever put tap water in it), > and trickle-charge for several hours, checking that 1H after charging > the voltage of the battery is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery in > the bike, crank the bike to start, take the battery back out, check > that voltage is still well above 12V. If either of these aren't true, > your battery is toast. > > And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the bike > or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least 2000 > RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs at > least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike takes > out. > > Thor > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ernie Campbell]

A new charger and gell battery are the next things im getting. Thanks again Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: Thor Lancelot Simon To: Douglas Bouley Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Charging Delima On Sun, Jul 09, 2006 at 01:50:38PM -0400, Douglas Bouley wrote: > > What are the implications of this for very slow stop and go traffic? The KLR charging system, with the stock set of accessories, is pretty much balanced at idle RPM -- the battery should charge, or discharge, only a tiny tiny little bit. But if you have high-drain accessories like heated grips, and/or a headlight bulb with increased wattage, and you're in stop and go traffic so the fan's kicking on all the time -- it is a good idea to turn those accessories off. This is another reason why the brighter headlight bulbs with stock wattage for the *low* beam (e.g. 100/60) are a much better idea than the ones that are brighter for both high and low. Anyway, you cannot charge a KLR by letting it sit at idle. A trickle charger is the right way to go. Thor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Doug Herr]

On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Ernie Campbell wrote:

> A new charger and gell battery are the next things im getting. Thanks again

A sealed battery is great, but you may not want a gell cell. They use a different charger. A regular charger works just fine with an AGM, so that would seem to be the one you should lean toward. I am pretty sure that most people here are not talking gell cell when they talk about sealed batts. If I am wrong here then somebody please chime in a correct. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Ernie Campbell]

Im going to get the one at Arrowhead, is this a good sealed batt? Almost everything ive gotten for my KLR came from there and i am very pleased with the service and fast shipping. Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Herr To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 4:14 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Charging Delima On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Ernie Campbell wrote: > A new charger and gell battery are the next things im getting. Thanks again A sealed battery is great, but you may not want a gell cell. They use a different charger. A regular charger works just fine with an AGM, so that would seem to be the one you should lean toward. I am pretty sure that most people here are not talking gell cell when they talk about sealed batts. If I am wrong here then somebody please chime in a correct. -- Doug Herr doug@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]