dunlop vs. metzeler

[Krgrife@aol.com]

In a message dated 12/17/2004 4:17:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, s2mumford@... writes:

>You gotta stand on the pegs off road to go at a good clip. >Why? I really don't care, but I can and do do it.

And that is all there is to say about that! Thank you, Stu. Kurt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Erik]

> > In a message dated 12/17/2004 4:17:36 PM Pacific Standard Time, > s2mumford@... writes: > >> You gotta stand on the pegs off road to go at a good clip. >> Why? I really don't care, but I can and do do it. > > And that is all there is to say about that! Thank you, Stu. > Kurt

Yeah, screw science and engineering. What has it ever done for us? erik

[matteeanne@yahoo.com]

NOt sure about the center of gravity thing, but I love the workout you get from standing up, I also love the fact that standing on my KLR pegs my head is now 7' off the ground. I love the ache I have in my arms and shoulders after 30-60 miles off road. And, as busy as I am, anytime I can mix fun with a workout, I'm in.. --- Stuart Mumford wrote:

> > Imagine this: You have a 200 pound weight on the > seat of your KLR. > Now remove that, split in half, and put a 100 pound > weight on each of your > footpegs. > While the total weight is the same, the load is > carried lower on the bike. > > Now do this: get a piece of paper and draw a circle > on it about the size of > a quarter. Draw an upside down "Y" directly below > the circle, with the stem > ending at the circle. Now, about half way down the > stem, draw a horizontal > line about an inch long. > Look! You made a person! > > Thanks > CA Stu > > > -----Original Message----- > > Pegs are lower than the seat. > > > > Plus it makes tossing the beat around easier. > > > > Dooden > > A15 Green Ape > > > > Just hope it does not restart the countersteer > thread again, that was > > worse than the election thread. > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jake > Szufnarowski wrote: > > > How does standing on the pegs lower your center > of gravity? It > > seems to > > > me that it would heighten it, though I am far > from a physicist... > > > > > > Jake > > > A18 nyc > > > > > > > > -Some of the guys covered it, but I'll repeat: > STAND ON THE PEGS > > in the > > > > dirt. > > > > That lowers your c of g about a foot and a > half and removes some > > of the > > > > top- > > > > heavy. Have a relaxed grip so the bike can > 'move' when it needs > > to. And > > > > WEAR your protective gear! Have fun. > > > > Ed > > > > > > --Jake Szufnarowski > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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> > > > Message: 5 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:36:13 -0000 > > From: "Dooden" > > Subject: Re: standing on pegs in dirt > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" > wrote: > > > > > > Pegs are lower than the seat. > > > > > > Plus it makes tossing the around easier. > > > > > > Dooden > > > A15 Green Ape > > > > > > Just hope it does not restart the countersteer > thread again, that was > > > worse than the election thread. > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jake > Szufnarowski wrote: > > > > How does standing on the pegs lower your > center of gravity? It > > > seems to > > > > me that it would heighten it, though I am far > from a physicist... > > > > > > > > Jake > > > > A18 nyc > > > > > > > > > > -Some of the guys covered it, but I'll > repeat: STAND ON THE PEGS > > > in the > > > > > dirt. > > > > > That lowers your c of g about a foot and a > half and removes some > > > of the > > > > > top- > > > > > heavy. Have a relaxed grip so the bike can > 'move' when it needs > > > to. And > > > > > WEAR your protective gear! Have fun. > > > > > Ed > > > > > > > > --Jake Szufnarowski > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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> > > > Message: 6 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 13:18:00 -0000 > > From: "Conall" > > Subject: Re: Tire mounting help. > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Randall Marbach > > > wrote: > > > Hi All > > > > > > I am in the middle of mounting a new d606 rear > on my > > > A17. There is a mark/spot on the side of the > tire. > > > > > > What does this mark mean? > > > > > > Does the valve stem go next to this mark or 180% > from > > > this mark. > > > > > > TIA > > > > > > Randy from Burbank > > > > Randy, > > > > Have a quick look at > > http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/rearaxle1.html > > > > for a pictorial on tips to getting the rear azle > and brakes set up. > > Thanks, > > > > Conall > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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> > >

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> > > > Message: 7 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 13:27:13 -0000 > > From: "Conall" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > > > wrote: > > > > > The company's website says that the stuff was > created in 1953 when > > a > > > small company with 3 employees set out to create > a line of rust- > > > prevention solvants and degreasers for use in > the aerospace > > > industry. It was on the 40th try that they > found the Water > > > Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. > Then they used the > > > stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it > from rust and > > > corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > MrMoose > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > In Mexico, WD-50 is available, took them 50 tries > to get the formula. > > Different company. :^) >

=== message truncated === __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

[denvowell@aol.com]

You need to be a rocket scientist to ride one of these bikes. Dennis A18 The Big Red 1 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dskinc@alltel.net]

Hey, what's counter steering? Should I be counting while I steer? TK

> > From: "Stuart Mumford" > Date: 2004/12/17 Fri PM 04:00:35 CST > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Subject: [DSN_klr650] RE:Re: standing on pegs in dirt > > > Imagine this: You have a 200 pound weight on the seat of your KLR. > Now remove that, split in half, and put a 100 pound weight on each of your > footpegs. > While the total weight is the same, the load is carried lower on the bike. > > Now do this: get a piece of paper and draw a circle on it about the size of > a quarter. Draw an upside down "Y" directly below the circle, with the stem > ending at the circle. Now, about half way down the stem, draw a horizontal > line about an inch long. > Look! You made a person! > > Thanks > CA Stu > > > -----Original Message----- > > Pegs are lower than the seat. > > > > Plus it makes tossing the beat around easier. > > > > Dooden > > A15 Green Ape > > > > Just hope it does not restart the countersteer thread again, that was > > worse than the election thread. > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jake Szufnarowski wrote: > > > How does standing on the pegs lower your center of gravity? It > > seems to > > > me that it would heighten it, though I am far from a physicist... > > > > > > Jake > > > A18 nyc > > > > > > > > -Some of the guys covered it, but I'll repeat: STAND ON THE PEGS > > in the > > > > dirt. > > > > That lowers your c of g about a foot and a half and removes some > > of the > > > > top- > > > > heavy. Have a relaxed grip so the bike can 'move' when it needs > > to. And > > > > WEAR your protective gear! Have fun. > > > > Ed > > > > > > --Jake Szufnarowski > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 5 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:36:13 -0000 > > From: "Dooden" > > Subject: Re: standing on pegs in dirt > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > > > > > Pegs are lower than the seat. > > > > > > Plus it makes tossing the around easier. > > > > > > Dooden > > > A15 Green Ape > > > > > > Just hope it does not restart the countersteer thread again, that was > > > worse than the election thread. > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Jake Szufnarowski wrote: > > > > How does standing on the pegs lower your center of gravity? It > > > seems to > > > > me that it would heighten it, though I am far from a physicist... > > > > > > > > Jake > > > > A18 nyc > > > > > > > > > > -Some of the guys covered it, but I'll repeat: STAND ON THE PEGS > > > in the > > > > > dirt. > > > > > That lowers your c of g about a foot and a half and removes some > > > of the > > > > > top- > > > > > heavy. Have a relaxed grip so the bike can 'move' when it needs > > > to. And > > > > > WEAR your protective gear! Have fun. > > > > > Ed > > > > > > > > --Jake Szufnarowski > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 6 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 13:18:00 -0000 > > From: "Conall" > > Subject: Re: Tire mounting help. > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Randall Marbach > > wrote: > > > Hi All > > > > > > I am in the middle of mounting a new d606 rear on my > > > A17. There is a mark/spot on the side of the tire. > > > > > > What does this mark mean? > > > > > > Does the valve stem go next to this mark or 180% from > > > this mark. > > > > > > TIA > > > > > > Randy from Burbank > > > > Randy, > > > > Have a quick look at > > http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/rearaxle1.html > > > > for a pictorial on tips to getting the rear azle and brakes set up. > > Thanks, > > > > Conall > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 7 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 13:27:13 -0000 > > From: "Conall" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > > wrote: > > > > > The company's website says that the stuff was created in 1953 when > > a > > > small company with 3 employees set out to create a line of rust- > > > prevention solvants and degreasers for use in the aerospace > > > industry. It was on the 40th try that they found the Water > > > Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. Then they used the > > > stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it from rust and > > > corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > MrMoose > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > In Mexico, WD-50 is available, took them 50 tries to get the formula. > > Different company. :^) > > > > Conall > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 8 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:42:19 -0500 > > From: "Streetfighters" > > Subject: Help Barnicle Bill help Christopher Powers - Merry Christmas! > > > > Friends- > > > > Below is a request that went out on one of the motorcycle internet lists > > that I'm on. Barnacle Bill is a trusted member of the motorcycle > > community > > (http://www.racingleather.com) and this is no scam. It just seemed like a > > good cause, especially at this time of year, and I wanted to assist in > > spreading the request for help beyond reach of our little enthusiast's > > world. > > > > To visit the forum where he originally posted it; > > http://makeashorterlink.com/?A29412C0A > > > > He's asking for $5 per person, but give as much as you can!!! > > > > Here are the details, directly from Barnacle Bill: > > > > "Christopher is a little 12-year old boy that lives at the end of my road. > > He was born with a hole in his heart and underwent 4 major > > surgeries when he > > was just weeks old. During one of the surgeries he had a disabling stroke. > > He can walk but he can't run. He can't talk but he can sign language. His > > right arm is only 10% as his right leg. He loves Nascar racing. > > > > He has 3 younger brothers that love him dearly and help him all they can. > > Christopher's parents are in their late 20's. His father works 2 jobs and > > his mother is a teacher's aid at the local school. They are > > active in their > > church youth groups and his father is working to become a minister. > > > > Christopher now had a rare blood disorder. They removed his > > spleen last year > > but they just can't find out what is wrong. His white blood cell count is > > so low and his immune system so impaired he can no longer go to school. > > > > Needless to say all this has wrecked havoc on the families > > finances. I can't > > watch this young father carrying his son in his arms or the care > > the rest of > > the family shows for him without a tear coming into my eye. I > > just found out > > this morning that they had to let their car go back when the lease was up. > > They are using a loaner from her parents. > > > > I want and need to do something for them. I want the WERA family > > to help me. > > I could just make a donation but I can take that same money and buy > > materials for a new custom suit. Help me do this for Christopher and his > > family. Every single penny of your 5-dollar donation will go to this > > family. I think enough of you know me to know this is true. I would think > > just send in your donation along with your name and address and > > phone number > > which will go into a general drawing and Darethea can pick the > > recipient of > > the new suit right after the first of the year and then the details can be > > worked out then. It just feels like the right thing to do. I would really > > like to have a least a 1000 people donate and get into the pool. Input is > > appreciated. I plan to do something even if this is a no go. Tell me what > > you think. Emails and phone calls are appreciated. I AM BARNACLE BILL my > > email is barnacle@... my phone number is 859-336-7375. Thank you all > > for your time. As always, the best to all- > > > > Barnacle Bill and Darethea" > > > > Donations can be sent to: > > > > Barnacle Bills Racing Leathers > > 1106 Logan Rd > > Springfield, KY 40069 > > > > or...for Paypal...you may put attention "for Christopher Powers " > > > > Dave Arkle a.k.a. (diet)DrThunder is local and has offered to > > handle Paypal > > donations for Bill. E-mail address for Paypal is > > mag_fanatic@... (don't miss the "_" between "mag" and > > "fanatic". Just copy/paste the address.) > > -------------------------------------------- > > > > Now you many of you might not need a new leather motorcycle > > racing suit. So > > if you win it, we already have volunteers to either auction it > > off or use a > > raffle to raise even more money for this family!!! > > > > Thanks for your help and Merry Christmas!!! And spread the > > word!!! Forward > > this on to as many as you can!!!!! > > > > Geoff- > > www.oldrice.com > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 9 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:16:56 EST > > From: kdxkawboy@... > > Subject: Re: Re: standing on pegs in dirt - do it in odd surfaces > > > > In a message dated 2004-12-16 10:07:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, > > lasvegasrider@... writes: > > > > > > > > COG issue - standing up raises it, however, it creates a > > fulcrum point of > > > the weight references - trust us - standing up is a good thing in many > > > surface environs. > > > > > > > > > > To get the picture it might help to keep in mind that their are > > to physically > > different COGs, the bike's and your's. Your going straight down the road, > > sitting on the seat and ride no hands. Your weight is adding say > > 200 pounds to > > the weight of the bike at the height of the seat, raising the > > bike's center of > > gravity. Do the same stunt, but standing up on the pegs. Your COG > > is higher but > > you are adding 200 pounds to bike at the height of the footpegs, > > lowering the > > center of gravity. This happens because it's not where your COG > > is but where > > your weight rides on the bike. > > > > By raising your COG you increase the effectiveness of your body english, > > which is using your body as a lever and the further out on the > > lever that you can > > put the weight the greater the force. Because you are on the > > pegs, apply these > > forces to a point on the bike you are like the guy riding a > > bicycle on a high > > wire holding onto to a long bar with a couple of weights at each end that > > hang lower than the bike as far as your balance goes. > > > > P@ > > G'ville, Nv > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 10 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:52:59 -0500 > > From: "John Kokola" > > Subject: RE: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > That describes my CBR1000F. Been using WD-40, and occasionally 75W90 gear > > oil as well. 25k out of a DID X-ring so far. Haven't had to adjust it in > > several thousand miles, it's got no 'sticky links,' and it's a > > clean chain. > > > > --John Kokola > > FWIW > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Keith Saltzer [mailto:k.saltzer@...] > > > > > > 4. These same guys were telling countless stories about how "the most > > > miles they ever got out of a chain" were while they were only using > > > WD-40. These milage figures were usually in the 15,000-30,000 mile > > > range. Some of them higher. A lot of the bikes were high horsepower > > > bikes as well. > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 11 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 15:18:35 -0000 > > From: "Rodney Copeland" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > I tried the WD40 regement for the first 10,000 miles on my new KLR. > > I noticed very loose rollers and went to some lubes that left me with > > ungodly messes on the back of my head. > > I did manage to get 20,000 out of my chain and rear sprocket. > > I noticed a few rollers missin shortly after. > > I'll update with the results of a new Xring and both sprockets. > > I'll try wax for this round. > > Pretty sure if you feel the chain after a ride to get a temperature > > readin, you'll see that WD40 ain't workin for lubin your chain. > > Anyone thinkin about no lube, will quickly see the gauling takin place > > on the rollers and know they are destroying their chain and sprockets. > > Rod > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" wrote: > > > > > > I just spent the better part of the last 8 hours searching online for > > > anything I could find having to do with cleaning/oiling/lubing O-ring > > > and X-ring chains. > > > > > > I read A LOT of stuff. I even got onto WD-40's website for a while. > > > > > > While reading, I kept finding the same things over and over and over > > > and over again, like: > > > > > > 1. Guys using sticky name brand spray lubes had gunk collect all over > > > their chains, bikes, tires, and sometimes clothes. > > > > > > 2. These same guys hated the mess it made putting it on, hated > > > cleaning the mess up, hated how many steps they went through and how > > > much time they spent to go through the process of their chain > > > maintanence. > > > > > > 3. LOTS of guys were using WD-40 only to clean/lube their chains with > > > no mess, in one step, and they loved it. > > > > > > 4. These same guys were telling countless stories about how "the most > > > miles they ever got out of a chain" were while they were only using > > > WD-40. These milage figures were usually in the 15,000-30,000 mile > > > range. Some of them higher. A lot of the bikes were high horsepower > > > bikes as well. > > > > > > I was actually pretty surprised at how the guys using only WD-40 > > > raved about it. I did read a lot of guys saying stuff like, "WD-40 > > > will eat your rings", and "WD-40 is not a good enough lube" and on > > > and on. But you know what? Not once did I read about a guys chain > > > having problems that was only treated with WD-40. Not one ring > > > missing, not one problem with rust, not one story about having to > > > adjust the chain more often. In fact, they said that they adjusted > > > them less. I never read a rave review about someone using sticky > > > stuff, or wax, or any other name brand product. Some guys used gear > > > oil with good results, but it was still messy. Lots of mechanics > > > recommended WD-40 to other riders, and some mechanics even mentioned > > > that the chains that they saw that were the cleanest, least abused > > > best looking chains on their customers bikes were only treated with > > > WD-40. > > > > > > The company's website says that the stuff was created in 1953 when a > > > small company with 3 employees set out to create a line of rust- > > > prevention solvants and degreasers for use in the aerospace > > > industry. It was on the 40th try that they found the Water > > > Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. Then they used the > > > stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it from rust and > > > corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > > > > I am one of these guys that has used non O-ring chains on the KLR to > > > get more HP to the ground, with a lot of extra work. I lubed it with > > > sticky stuff for a while, then moved on to just gear oil. Then moved > > > on to a cheap O-ring chain that was better, but not by much at all. > > > I was still lubing with gear oil. It worked ok, but was still messy > > > and still collected stuff on the chain. Off road was the worst of > > > course. Then I went to a really good DID X-ring chain (online I > > > found a bunch of raves about it too) and am now only using WD-40 on > > > it to clean it after riding in the dirt, and I will use it to clean > > > the chain when it needs it. But that is turning out to be not that > > > often. I said in earlier posts that I am not lubing my chain at all, > > > except when I cleaned it with the WD-40, but I guess that is not > > > quite correct. As I read tonight that although WD-40 is considered > > > to be a "light" lubricant, it is still a lubricant. I read that it's > > > lubricant will stick well to the chain, and still in fact be there > > > for some time, even though the chain seems to be "dry". So far, I'm > > > really liking what I'm experiencing with the stuff. > > > > > > MrMoose > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 12 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:35:12 -0500 > > From: "John Kokola" > > Subject: RE: Help Barnicle Bill help Christopher Powers - Merry Christmas! > > > > Bill is good peeps. I've donated. FWIW. > > > > --John Kokola > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Streetfighters [mailto:Streetfighters@...] > > > > > > Below is a request that went out on one of the motorcycle internet lists > > > that I'm on. Barnacle Bill is a trusted member of the motorcycle > > > community > > > (http://www.racingleather.com) and this is no scam. It just > > seemed like a > > > good cause, especially at this time of year, and I wanted to assist in > > > spreading the request for help beyond reach of our little enthusiast's > > > world. > > > > > > To visit the forum where he originally posted it; > > > http://makeashorterlink.com/?A29412C0A > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 13 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 07:00:16 -0800 > > From: Don Van Dyke > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > Keith, on the average, about how often, in miles, do you apply WD-40 to > > your drive chain? Do you ride regularly in the rain? > > > > I suspect it is true that WD-40 does, at least to some degree, > > deteriorate > > the rubber X or O rings, as chain manufacturers and motorcycle magazines > > state. But kerosene, which DID recommends for cleaning chains, is not > > completely harmless to rubber either. > > > > I have long wondered if perhaps the other forces that wear out > > chains might > > not cause a chain to fail before the X or O rings wear out from > > the solvent > > in WD-40. Keith's Web search seems to indicate this might be so. > > > > But does WD-40 need to be applied more frequently than regular chain lube > > to keep a chain lubricated? Will a chain used only on the street do well > > with WD-40 if it is lubricated at 500 mile intervals? > > > > Don Van Dyke > > Sacramento, California > > Moto@... > > > > At 11:09 AM 12/17/2004 +0000, Keith Saltzer wrote: > > > > > > >I just spent the better part of the last 8 hours searching online for > > >anything I could find having to do with cleaning/oiling/lubing O-ring > > >and X-ring chains. > > > > > >I read A LOT of stuff. I even got onto WD-40's website for a while. > > > > > >While reading, I kept finding the same things over and over and over > > >and over again, like: > > > > > >1. Guys using sticky name brand spray lubes had gunk collect all over > > >their chains, bikes, tires, and sometimes clothes. > > > > > >2. These same guys hated the mess it made putting it on, hated > > >cleaning the mess up, hated how many steps they went through and how > > >much time they spent to go through the process of their chain > > >maintanence. > > > > > >3. LOTS of guys were using WD-40 only to clean/lube their chains with > > >no mess, in one step, and they loved it. > > > > > >4. These same guys were telling countless stories about how "the most > > >miles they ever got out of a chain" were while they were only using > > >WD-40. These milage figures were usually in the 15,000-30,000 mile > > >range. Some of them higher. A lot of the bikes were high horsepower > > >bikes as well. > > > > > >I was actually pretty surprised at how the guys using only WD-40 > > >raved about it. I did read a lot of guys saying stuff like, "WD-40 > > >will eat your rings", and "WD-40 is not a good enough lube" and on > > >and on. But you know what? Not once did I read about a guys chain > > >having problems that was only treated with WD-40. Not one ring > > >missing, not one problem with rust, not one story about having to > > >adjust the chain more often. In fact, they said that they adjusted > > >them less. I never read a rave review about someone using sticky > > >stuff, or wax, or any other name brand product. Some guys used gear > > >oil with good results, but it was still messy. Lots of mechanics > > >recommended WD-40 to other riders, and some mechanics even mentioned > > >that the chains that they saw that were the cleanest, least abused > > >best looking chains on their customers bikes were only treated with > > >WD-40. > > > > > >The company's website says that the stuff was created in 1953 when a > > >small company with 3 employees set out to create a line of rust- > > >prevention solvants and degreasers for use in the aerospace > > >industry. It was on the 40th try that they found the Water > > >Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. Then they used the > > >stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it from rust and > > >corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > > > >I am one of these guys that has used non O-ring chains on the KLR to > > >get more HP to the ground, with a lot of extra work. I lubed it with > > >sticky stuff for a while, then moved on to just gear oil. Then moved > > >on to a cheap O-ring chain that was better, but not by much at all. > > >I was still lubing with gear oil. It worked ok, but was still messy > > >and still collected stuff on the chain. Off road was the worst of > > >course. Then I went to a really good DID X-ring chain (online I > > >found a bunch of raves about it too) and am now only using WD-40 on > > >it to clean it after riding in the dirt, and I will use it to clean > > >the chain when it needs it. But that is turning out to be not that > > >often. I said in earlier posts that I am not lubing my chain at all, > > >except when I cleaned it with the WD-40, but I guess that is not > > >quite correct. As I read tonight that although WD-40 is considered > > >to be a "light" lubricant, it is still a lubricant. I read that it's > > >lubricant will stick well to the chain, and still in fact be there > > >for some time, even though the chain seems to be "dry". So far, I'm > > >really liking what I'm experiencing with the stuff. > > > > > >MrMoose > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 14 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 15:55:57 -0000 > > From: "Randy Shultz" > > Subject: Re: Dual Star lock nut kits > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Norberto Reyes" > > wrote: > > > Anyone purchased these lock nut kits from Dual Star? They call them > > Fuji > > > lock or some such. > > > > > > a. locking axle nuts > > > b. motor mount > > > c. subframe mount upgrade kit > > > d. chain adjuster nut > > > > > > Is there anything magical about these that would justify the > > outrageous > > > prices? Are they the same ones we can buy at Lowe's or Home Depot > > for a > > > small fraction of the cost? > > ----- > > > > I bought the axle and chain adjuster nuts from Dual Star. I use the > > chain adjuster nuts but I never installed the axle nuts. > > > > The reason I didn't use the axle nuts is because the metal tabs > > looked like they would be hard on the axle threads to me. That's > > probably not the case but I'm not an experienced mechanic. I use the > > stock axle nuts and replaced the cotter pin with an R clip or hitch > > pin or whatever you call those things. Easy to remove and install, > > once the holes are lined up, and re-usable. > > > > Like I said I use the chain adjuster nuts and they're great. I don't > > have a local source for metric specialty fasteners, so I bought the > > Dual Stars, but someone on this list turned me onto > > metricspecialties.com and perhaps I could have bought them cheaper > > through them, I don't know. > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 15 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 11:21:45 -0500 > > From: "John Kokola" > > Subject: RE: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > In my experience, WD40 won't last for 500 miles. Particularly if you're > > riding in the rain. > > > > --John Kokola > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Don Van Dyke [mailto:Moto@...] > > > > > > Will a chain used only on the street do well > > > with WD-40 if it is lubricated at 500 mile intervals? > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 16 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 16:26:11 -0000 > > From: "klr6501995" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > O ring chains are supposed to have grease inside the orings. The > > pivot point. The point that transfers most of the power. (the pins > > don't rotate, the rollers do) > > > > WD-40 does make a good cleaner and minor lub. > > > > I started riding in Chey,WY. then shortley later ElPaso TX, then > > Wichita Ks and now Jax Fl. > > > > Mucho sand in the above places. > > My shortcuts in Jax Fl. involve dirt roads and my home parking spot > > runs me through sand and some rear wheel spin as I push my backyard > > gate open with the front wheel. > > > > Since I joined the list I started using wd-40 as a cleaner and then > > 80-90w gear oil as lub. > > > > I never ever until 3 years ago got 20Kmi + out of chain and sprocket > > sets. This inludes 3 c.s sprockets for every rear. > > > > WD-40 works. period. > > > > Wax. hmmm what is wax? Do you pour wax into motors ? > > I went throught several sets of sp/ch in El Paso using the PJ lubes > > sperm whale and all. > > > > I reckon I got on my high horse this time because in a factory > > enviro. that involved fiberglass dust we were lubing with some > > graphite lube on the chains. chains and sprockets wore fast(ran 24/7) > > I took it upon myself to install a oring chain on the primary drive > > (had to adjust start up current) and run a timed burst airline to > > blow that chain off of dust. > > We never replaced that chain sprocket combo for 1.5 years. vs 3 > > months. > > > > Even in this 21st century, we ain't found a better lube than OIL, > > 710 . > > > > Dirty ? Dude's your riding a klr.Dirty looks cool and no it don't > > mess you up on tight left leaners. > > > > > > MY BIGGEST CONCERN HAS BEEN... > > Sometimes I think it may be more expensive to buy wd-40 for 20Kmi + > > > > 3-5 cans. at ~3 dollars... > > > > JMHO and YMMV. > > > > oh...and buy my stuff when I advertise. > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" > > wrote: > > > > > > I tried the WD40 regement for the first 10,000 miles on my new KLR. > > > I noticed very loose rollers and went to some lubes that left me > > with > > > ungodly messes on the back of my head. > > > I did manage to get 20,000 out of my chain and rear sprocket. > > > I noticed a few rollers missin shortly after. > > > I'll update with the results of a new Xring and both sprockets. > > > I'll try wax for this round. > > > Pretty sure if you feel the chain after a ride to get a temperature > > > readin, you'll see that WD40 ain't workin for lubin your chain. > > > Anyone thinkin about no lube, will quickly see the gauling takin > > place > > > on the rollers and know they are destroying their chain and > > sprockets. > > > Rod > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > > wrote: > > > > > > > > I just spent the better part of the last 8 hours searching online > > for > > > > anything I could find having to do with cleaning/oiling/lubing O- > > ring > > > > and X-ring chains. > > > > > > > > I read A LOT of stuff. I even got onto WD-40's website for a > > while. > > > > > > > > While reading, I kept finding the same things over and over and > > over > > > > and over again, like: > > > > > > > > 1. Guys using sticky name brand spray lubes had gunk collect all > > over > > > > their chains, bikes, tires, and sometimes clothes. > > > > > > > > 2. These same guys hated the mess it made putting it on, hated > > > > cleaning the mess up, hated how many steps they went through and > > how > > > > much time they spent to go through the process of their chain > > > > maintanence. > > > > > > > > 3. LOTS of guys were using WD-40 only to clean/lube their chains > > with > > > > no mess, in one step, and they loved it. > > > > > > > > 4. These same guys were telling countless stories about how "the > > most > > > > miles they ever got out of a chain" were while they were only > > using > > > > WD-40. These milage figures were usually in the 15,000-30,000 > > mile > > > > range. Some of them higher. A lot of the bikes were high > > horsepower > > > > bikes as well. > > > > > > > > I was actually pretty surprised at how the guys using only WD-40 > > > > raved about it. I did read a lot of guys saying stuff like, "WD- > > 40 > > > > will eat your rings", and "WD-40 is not a good enough lube" and > > on > > > > and on. But you know what? Not once did I read about a guys > > chain > > > > having problems that was only treated with WD-40. Not one ring > > > > missing, not one problem with rust, not one story about having to > > > > adjust the chain more often. In fact, they said that they > > adjusted > > > > them less. I never read a rave review about someone using sticky > > > > stuff, or wax, or any other name brand product. Some guys used > > gear > > > > oil with good results, but it was still messy. Lots of mechanics > > > > recommended WD-40 to other riders, and some mechanics even > > mentioned > > > > that the chains that they saw that were the cleanest, least > > abused > > > > best looking chains on their customers bikes were only treated > > with > > > > WD-40. > > > > > > > > The company's website says that the stuff was created in 1953 > > when a > > > > small company with 3 employees set out to create a line of rust- > > > > prevention solvants and degreasers for use in the aerospace > > > > industry. It was on the 40th try that they found the Water > > > > Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. Then they used > > the > > > > stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it from rust and > > > > corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > > > > > > I am one of these guys that has used non O-ring chains on the KLR > > to > > > > get more HP to the ground, with a lot of extra work. I lubed it > > with > > > > sticky stuff for a while, then moved on to just gear oil. Then > > moved > > > > on to a cheap O-ring chain that was better, but not by much at > > all. > > > > I was still lubing with gear oil. It worked ok, but was still > > messy > > > > and still collected stuff on the chain. Off road was the worst > > of > > > > course. Then I went to a really good DID X-ring chain (online I > > > > found a bunch of raves about it too) and am now only using WD-40 > > on > > > > it to clean it after riding in the dirt, and I will use it to > > clean > > > > the chain when it needs it. But that is turning out to be not > > that > > > > often. I said in earlier posts that I am not lubing my chain at > > all, > > > > except when I cleaned it with the WD-40, but I guess that is not > > > > quite correct. As I read tonight that although WD-40 is > > considered > > > > to be a "light" lubricant, it is still a lubricant. I read that > > it's > > > > lubricant will stick well to the chain, and still in fact be > > there > > > > for some time, even though the chain seems to be "dry". So far, > > I'm > > > > really liking what I'm experiencing with the stuff. > > > > > > > > MrMoose > > > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 17 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 16:26:43 -0000 > > From: "Keith Saltzer" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Don Van Dyke wrote: > > > Keith, on the average, about how often, in miles, do you apply WD- > > 40 to > > > your drive chain? Do you ride regularly in the rain? > > > > > > Well, in 8000 miles, I've applied WD-40 to the chain after dirt > > riding about 5 times, and other than that, I think I hit it with some > > more maybe 2 or 3 times. That's it. When Fred put it on for me, he > > said that the worst abuse to the chain would be high heat, hard fast > > miles, like I was doing while coming back from Pa loaded, and doing > > about 75-80 mph indicated. So I hit the Loobman oiler once before I > > left Utah and that was it. I do/will ride in the rain but so far > > with this chain I have only been in rain once or twice cause I just > > don't see any around here most of the year. > > > > > > > I suspect it is true that WD-40 does, at least to some degree, > > deteriorate > > > the rubber X or O rings, as chain manufacturers and motorcycle > > magazines > > > state. But kerosene, which DID recommends for cleaning chains, is > > not > > > completely harmless to rubber either. > > > > > > Every time I read someone saying something about WD-40 wearing out a > > chain for one reason or another, it always started with "I think" > > or "I suspect" or something to that effect. No proof. Yet I read > > countless guys raving about their chains performance while using it. > > I also read that 2 different chain manufactures recommended it for > > cleaning their chains, although I didn't prove that yet. WD-40 does > > recommend it for cleaning/lubing chains. > > > > > > > I have long wondered if perhaps the other forces that wear out > > chains might > > > not cause a chain to fail before the X or O rings wear out from the > > solvent > > > in WD-40. Keith's Web search seems to indicate this might be so. > > > > > > But does WD-40 need to be applied more frequently than regular > > chain lube > > > to keep a chain lubricated? Will a chain used only on the street > > do well > > > with WD-40 if it is lubricated at 500 mile intervals? > > > > Right now, I'm thinking that it doesn't need it that often, but it > > really depends on WHERE you ride. I'm a pretty firm believer in the > > fact that O-ring chains (and x-w-etc) were created to seal in the > > factory placed lube, and that lube is the most critical. Other than > > that I believe that the chain does not need a lot of lube for just > > the rollers. If adjust properly, the rollers shouldn't be moving on > > the sprockets much at all, if any. And a rust/corrosion preventative > > is helpful too. WD-40 does both of these things. I also read and > > believe that chain adjustment is critical for longevity, as is making > > sure your sprockets and chain are in good-great condition to start > > with when you put on a new chain and/or sprockets. > > > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > At 11:09 AM 12/17/2004 +0000, Keith Saltzer wrote: > > > > > > > > > >I just spent the better part of the last 8 hours searching online > > for > > > >anything I could find having to do with cleaning/oiling/lubing O- > > ring > > > >and X-ring chains. > > > > > > > >I read A LOT of stuff. I even got onto WD-40's website for a > > while. > > > > > > > >While reading, I kept finding the same things over and over and > > over > > > >and over again, like: > > > > > > > >1. Guys using sticky name brand spray lubes had gunk collect all > > over > > > >their chains, bikes, tires, and sometimes clothes. > > > > > > > >2. These same guys hated the mess it made putting it on, hated > > > >cleaning the mess up, hated how many steps they went through and > > how > > > >much time they spent to go through the process of their chain > > > >maintanence. > > > > > > > >3. LOTS of guys were using WD-40 only to clean/lube their chains > > with > > > >no mess, in one step, and they loved it. > > > > > > > >4. These same guys were telling countless stories about how "the > > most > > > >miles they ever got out of a chain" were while they were only using > > > >WD-40. These milage figures were usually in the 15,000-30,000 mile > > > >range. Some of them higher. A lot of the bikes were high > > horsepower > > > >bikes as well. > > > > > > > >I was actually pretty surprised at how the guys using only WD-40 > > > >raved about it. I did read a lot of guys saying stuff like, "WD-40 > > > >will eat your rings", and "WD-40 is not a good enough lube" and on > > > >and on. But you know what? Not once did I read about a guys chain > > > >having problems that was only treated with WD-40. Not one ring > > > >missing, not one problem with rust, not one story about having to > > > >adjust the chain more often. In fact, they said that they adjusted > > > >them less. I never read a rave review about someone using sticky > > > >stuff, or wax, or any other name brand product. Some guys used > > gear > > > >oil with good results, but it was still messy. Lots of mechanics > > > >recommended WD-40 to other riders, and some mechanics even > > mentioned > > > >that the chains that they saw that were the cleanest, least abused > > > >best looking chains on their customers bikes were only treated with > > > >WD-40. > > > > > > > >The company's website says that the stuff was created in 1953 when > > a > > > >small company with 3 employees set out to create a line of rust- > > > >prevention solvants and degreasers for use in the aerospace > > > >industry. It was on the 40th try that they found the Water > > > >Displacement formula and hence the name WD-40. Then they used the > > > >stuff all over the Atlas missle to protect it from rust and > > > >corrosion. Did you know all that? I didn't. > > > > > > > >I am one of these guys that has used non O-ring chains on the KLR > > to > > > >get more HP to the ground, with a lot of extra work. I lubed it > > with > > > >sticky stuff for a while, then moved on to just gear oil. Then > > moved > > > >on to a cheap O-ring chain that was better, but not by much at all. > > > >I was still lubing with gear oil. It worked ok, but was still > > messy > > > >and still collected stuff on the chain. Off road was the worst of > > > >course. Then I went to a really good DID X-ring chain (online I > > > >found a bunch of raves about it too) and am now only using WD-40 on > > > >it to clean it after riding in the dirt, and I will use it to clean > > > >the chain when it needs it. But that is turning out to be not that > > > >often. I said in earlier posts that I am not lubing my chain at > > all, > > > >except when I cleaned it with the WD-40, but I guess that is not > > > >quite correct. As I read tonight that although WD-40 is considered > > > >to be a "light" lubricant, it is still a lubricant. I read that > > it's > > > >lubricant will stick well to the chain, and still in fact be there > > > >for some time, even though the chain seems to be "dry". So far, > > I'm > > > >really liking what I'm experiencing with the stuff. > > > > > > > >MrMoose > > > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 18 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 16:36:44 -0000 > > From: "klr6501995" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > And oil any kind wont. oil FLOATS on water. > > There is nothing WRONG with hitting the chain every HALF tank of gas > > w/ wd-40 then gear oil from a visine dropper. > > If you run with the stickey stuff only sand will stick and grind the > > combo's up pretty quick, > > > > Besides, In my daily travels around town and Jax,Fl to Anderson, S.C > > I use the same regiment. > > > > Squeaky noises in 1st gear are a good inicator that the chain needs > > lube. > > > > In my opinion the folks who have the biggest problems w/ thier bikes > > are those who don't ride daily. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "John Kokola" > > wrote: > > > In my experience, WD40 won't last for 500 miles. Particularly if > > you're > > > riding in the rain. > > > > > > --John Kokola > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Don Van Dyke [mailto:Moto@i...] > > > > > > > > Will a chain used only on the street do well > > > > with WD-40 if it is lubricated at 500 mile intervals? > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 19 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 16:51:21 -0000 > > From: "gpokluda" > > Subject: Vendor: Rider Valley Motorcycles > > > > > > Rider Valley Motorcycles is proud to announce its new and improved > > website at www.rvmc.com. > > > > We are also pleased to announce that we will be focusing entirely on > > Ural side car motorcycles and the Kymco product line. > > > > Ural makes the original and ultimate adventure machine, the 2wd > > Patrol. > > > > Kymco produces some of the finest scooters and atvs available. > > > > Check our site out often for news and deals. > > > > Thanks > > Gino Pokluda > > Rider Valley Motorcycles. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 20 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 08:59:59 -0800 (PST) > > From: Randall Marbach > > Subject: Chain Alignment and Adjustment Help > > > > Hi All > > > > > > Our tire mounting experience last night looks to be > > largely successful except for the following problems: > > > > No matter how hard I press on the rear brake, the bike > > shows no signs of wanting to stop. > > > > And when I returned to the garage after a brief test > > ride, I noticed that the adjuster nuts and plates had > > vibrated loose to the point where they almost fell off > > the bike, so now I have to realign/adjust the chain. > > > > Today, I will remove the rear wheel again and make > > sure all the spacers are present and in the right > > positions. > > > > > > Questions: > > > > Any idea what I did wrong with my brake? > > > > Does anybody have a good chain alignment/adjustment > > procedure? > > > > > > > > BTW I was really impressed with how easy it turned > > out to be to remove/replace/balance the stock tires > > with the new D606s and Fred's super duty tubes. (We > > practiced once on the rear tire of my rat A9 before we > > attempted this on my A17, this really helped) The tire > > beads seemed to want to break by themselves. The two > > tools that seemed to really help were the Yamaha > > spray-on tire mounting lube and the MotionPro combo > > axle wrench/tire tools. Took us about 3 easy hours to > > complete. > > > > To balance the tires, we mounted them in the stock > > location, but no chains, calipers, or speedo drives. > > It was interesting to see how the tire would gravitate > > to the heavy spot every time. A key clue was the fact > > that the tire would actually reverse its rotation > > to seek the heavy spot. It took about 1.5 oz to > > balance each tire. I used stick-on-time-weights from a > > dirtbike shop, but next time I might try weights that > > attach to the spokes. Anybody know where to get these? > > > > TIA > > > > Randy from Burbank > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Jazz up your holiday email with celebrity designs. Learn more. > > http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 21 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:00:23 -0800 (PST) > > From: "Eric L. Green" > > Subject: Re: Re: standing on pegs in dirt - do it in odd surfaces > > > > On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 kdxkawboy@... wrote: > > > In a message dated 2004-12-16 10:07:50 PM Pacific Standard Time, > > > lasvegasrider@... writes: > > > > COG issue - standing up raises it, however, it creates a > > fulcrum point of > > > > the weight references - trust us - standing up is a good thing in many > > > > surface environs. > > > > > To get the picture it might help to keep in mind that their are to > > > physically different COGs, the bike's and your's. Your going straight > > > down the road, sitting on the seat and ride no hands. Your weight is > > > adding say 200 pounds to the weight of the bike at the height of the > > > seat, raising the bike's center of gravity. Do the same stunt, but > > > standing up on the pegs. Your COG is higher but you are adding 200 > > > pounds to bike at the height of the footpegs, lowering the center of > > > gravity. This happens because it's not where your COG is but where your > > > weight rides on the bike. > > > > Err, no. You are confusing center of gravity with where the force of > > gravity acting upon your body exerts leverage on the frame. Those are two > > different topics altogether. Indeed, standing on the pegs wouldn't help > > stabilize the bike on iffy surfaces if it did not RAISE the center of > > gravity. A higher center of gravity means that for a given lean amount, > > the center of gravity moves in a larger arc, moves a longer distance, > > meaning that it takes more force to move the combined bike-man machine off > > of a given path. Thus why race bikes and sport bikes are so low that the > > rider is squatting on them like a constipated monkey -- so that they can > > change direction quickly. But since much of the time when you're riding > > offroad the problem is preventing slippery surfaces, rocks, etc. from > > changing your direction quickly, a lower center of gravity would not > > help offroad. > > > > But that is not the primary effect of standing on your stability offroad. > > The primary effect is simply that it gives you the mobility to move the > > center of gravity so that it rests on the line between the axles, thus > > preventing the bike from toppling at slow speeds. Try this experiment. Get > > on a bicycle that has a very accurate speedometer. Set the seat low. Start > > riding, sitting on the seat, and at about 10mph start coasting. Note the > > speed at which you start needing to make jerky course corrections with the > > handlebars in order to keep from toppling, and the speed at which you had > > to put your foot down. Now, do the same experiments, but stand up on the > > pedals. I find that on my mountain bike, only the very slightest of > > forward motions, barely faster than a snail's crawl, is necessary in order > > for me to stay upright then, and my bike is waggling under me as my body > > automatically adjusts to stay upright using the same mechanisms that keep > > me from falling over when I am standing on a street corner in gusty > > winds, or standing on a moving deck on a ship. I.e., as I start leaning > > to the left, when standing my body automatically shifts weight to the > > right, and vice-versa. > > > > In addition, as others have noted, standing on the pegs helps keep you > > from getting whapped in the butt by the seat as you bounce over rough > > terrain. You're now using your legs as suspension, which similarly helps > > keep the bike stable and planted (and your butt intact). > > > > But none of that has anything to do with a mysterious "lowered" center of > > gravity. The height of the center of gravity has nothing to do with > > balance. The distance of the center of gravity from the centerline between > > the hubs of the wheels is the only thing that has anything to do with > > balance, and a higher center of gravity that is over that centerline is > > thus more stable than a lower center of gravity that's to the left of that > > centerline. The inertial effects of center of gravity, not the effects > > upon balance, are why sport bikes are so short and squatty in order to get > > better cornering, because a lower center of gravity has less distance to > > travel in order to attain a specific lean angle, thus attains that lean > > angle faster for a given force inputted into the bike in order to offset > > the inertia of a mass going in a straight line. > > > > - E > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 22 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 10:16:08 -0700 > > From: "Fred Hink" > > Subject: Re: Chain Alignment and Adjustment Help > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Randall Marbach" > > To: "KLR Group" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Friday, December 17, 2004 9:59 AM > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Chain Alignment and Adjustment Help > > > > > > > No matter how hard I press on the rear brake, the bike > > > shows no signs of wanting to stop. > > > > Check to see that your rear brakepads are installed correctly and > > that they > > fit flush with the rotor. > > > > > I used stick-on-time-weights from a > > > dirtbike shop, but next time I might try weights that > > > attach to the spokes. Anybody know where to get these? > > > > Did you see the wheel wieghts I sell on my Parts Pages under the General > > section / Tires? > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 23 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 18:23:35 -0000 > > From: "Pat (M)" > > Subject: NKLR (kinda) - Old guy riding glasses > > > > > > Posted elsewhere - My new issue of Motorcycle Consumer News featured a > > product that I really need - maybe you too. While I love my Bolle > > sunglasses, I don't always wear 'em up here in rainy WA. My distant > > vision is excellent, but I need reading glasses for close stuff. I > > find that I need to stop & put on reading glasses to read details on a > > map, even small data on my GPS. > > > > TA DA! An outfit called LessLight sells ANSI standard smoke and clear > > bifocals that are wind resistant, made for motorcycle riders, fit > > inside a helmet shield and are only $15. I ordered a set each of 1.5 > > diopter clear & smoke "Cheaters". Should be here by Christmas, I'll > > report how I like 'em. > > http://www.lesslight.com/ > > > > Pat M > > A14 > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 24 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 18:29:43 -0000 > > From: "Keith Saltzer" > > Subject: Re: WD-40 as chain lube > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > > wrote: > > > > > Every time I read someone saying something about WD-40 wearing out > > > a chain for one reason or another, it always started with "I think" > > > or "I suspect" or something to that effect. No proof. Yet I read > > > countless guys raving about their chains performance while using > > it. > > > I also read that 2 different chain manufactures recommended it for > > > cleaning their chains, although I didn't prove that yet. WD-40 > > > does recommend it for cleaning/lubing chains. > > > > > > More on the subject that I remebered later: > > > > The people saying that WD-40 was bad for chains, couldn't say what > > EXACTLY is was in the stuff that made it bad. The ingredients are a > > secret, and the website says that even the handfull of people that do > > know what's in it, is a secret. > > > > When you look at the website, and the thousands of things that people > > are using it for, you can't help but think that there is no problem > > using it on a chain. For instance you can spray your whole motor be > > it, outboard, lawn mower, car, motorcycle etc. In fact, they have a > > link to click on and you can watch a guy spraying the stuff ALL OVER > > his dirt bike motor, chain, and swingarm area. It keeps it protected > > from corrosion and makes getting all the mud off of it easy. > > > > http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_big_blast.html > > > > There is a lot of hoses and rubber in a motor ya know. People are > > spraying this stuff on carpet to remove gum, clothing to remove > > stains, and on and on. The website says that it is safe for not only > > rubber, but paint, wood, plastics, and a whole array of other things. > > > > I read one thread from a group of UK folks that were talking about a > > test that was done over in an area of the world that has a BIG > > problem with road salt on the streets during the winter. (Holland?) > > It was said that if you rode a bike over their, and didn't have some > > sort of corrosion protectant on your motor, it would start to look > > like a mushroom in no time at all. They went on to say that there > > were many different products tested out in that environment to see > > which would hold up to the salt the best. WD-40 won hands down. > > > > I found a whole bunch of places to use it more around the house > > here. One of the things that I am going to try is using it on my > > rims. I am currently repolishing them (professional standards) while > > I have the wheels apart for my new spokes and nipples. I read that > > if you just spray this stuff on (that's easier than applying anything > > else that I have) and wiping it off, it will clean the rim AND coat > > it to protect it from getting corroded again. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > Message: 25 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 18:42:12 -0000 > > From: "Keith Saltzer" > > Subject: Re: Vendor: Rider Valley Motorcycles > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "gpokluda" wrote: > > > > > > Rider Valley Motorcycles is proud to announce its new and improved > > > website at www.rvmc.com. > > > > > > We are also pleased to announce that we will be focusing entirely > > on > > > Ural side car motorcycles and the Kymco product line. > > > > > > Ural makes the original and ultimate adventure machine, the 2wd > > > Patrol. > > > > > > Kymco produces some of the finest scooters and atvs available. > > > > > > Check our site out often for news and deals. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Gino Pokluda > > > Rider Valley Motorcycles. > > > > WOW Gino, that's quite a change in inventory. Your really selling > > some unique ride's there. Wish I could see them in person. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Don Van Dyke]

Pat, What on-road characteristics of the GP1 did you prefer over the Sahara3? IRC GP1, http://www.irc-tire.com/mce/tires/gp-110.html#gp-1 Metzeler MTZ Enduro3 Sahara, http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/en_85/tires/template_categorie.jhtml?catid=85DUALP&productid=16163 At 08:41 PM 12/17/2004 -0500, KDXKawboy@... wrote:

>I have yet to try the Karoos but can give you my feelings about the IRC >GP1Sahara 3606 > >The Sahara 3 is not quite as good as the GP1, on the street or in the >dirt, but I can get about 2000 miles more from a Sahara than a GP1. And >with a touring load the Saharas get a whole lot better in the dirt. I also >found they took about 20 miles to get warmed up and start feeling right, >until then they have a little bit of a push. The 606 works great on a KLR >in the dirt, not so great on the street. Its not a bad street tire, but >there is no way I would try to push them as hard as I can push the GP1s. >Then again there is no way I would try to push the GP1s as hard in the >dirt as I can the 606s. > >Pat >G'ville, Nv

Don Van Dyke Sacramento, California Moto@... www.intellection.org [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]