vacuum gauge

[Devon]

Buy a F*!king mityvac for $29.00. You can fill and bleed a dry brake system in 5 minutes, including one or two rounds of bleeding the "old fashioned" was by squeezing the lever at the end of it. Several things make bike brakes a bitch to bleed compared to cars: 1- The master cylinder is very small and pushes only a couple CCs of fluid per stroke. 2- The brake system is nearly vertical, and pushing fluid down the hose with that tiny master cylinder faster than the bubbles can rise back to the top is difficult. 3- The bike uses right-angle banjo bolts (as opposed to cars I've worked on which all had hard lines and straight-in fittings) which are ideal for trapping air bubbles. I've had some success in the past bleeding the master cylinder banjo bolt, where as usual you pump the brakes a few times to build up some pressure, then hold down the lever. Then instead of the bleeder on the caliper, you wrap a rag around the banjo bolt, then crack loose the banjo bolt, and retighten it just before the lever hits the grip. This will usually clear a bubble in the banjo bolt, or at the exit for the master cylinder. Another lister mentioned unbolting the master cylinder, holding it at an angle so air would rise out of the hose into the reservior, and then tapping it with a small wrench to hopefully knock any air bubbles loose. This works too. But really, buy a mityvac Devon ronc@... wrote:

>I let my A16 sit over night after doing what I thought was a thorough >job. I didn't have to on my A7, but this one just didn't want to >bleed. It took some work to get it done right, and I was like you, I >thought I had bleed the darned things ALL THE WAY.. but be patient, >and it'll come. > > > >

[John Kokola]

Or this ... best $70 I've ever spent on a tool. (Use it for trans + steering fluid, coolant, anything really). http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=85700 I'm not affiliated. --John Kokola -----Original Message----- From: Devon Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: SS Braided Front Brake Line But really, buy a mityvac

[Bogdan Swider]

> > But really, buy a mityvac > > Devon

A large syringe from a veterinary or livestock store works pretty well too. Bogdan

[Paul]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "johnsondesigns2004" wrote:

> > I recently purchased a stainless braided front brake line for my

A17,

> just got around to putting it on last night. after flushing the

line

> and fully bleeding the brakes i took 'er out for a spin to see how > much better these new SS lines really are in comparison to stock > rubbers. got 'er up to speed grabed a hand full of brake and

barely

> slowed down!. i was headed for a busy street right out of my

works

> parking lot, I was ready to bail before i was willing to hit the > street. luckilly i got the bike stopped before harm came to

myself

> or the bike. obviouly i had done something wrong. > > i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked > fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to > make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-

bled

> again just for fun. > > went out for test run again, got 'er up to speed, grabed a

handfull

> of brake and barely slowed down! WTF? > > i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked > fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to > make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-

bled

> again just for fun. cleaned the heck out of all the front braked > components with laquer thinner and an air-hose (this worked

bitchen

> on race cars). > > again went for a test ride.. same shit different run. what is the > story with these brake lines? is it just my luck or are these

things

> a major pile of shit? > when i say "hand full of brake" i mean the lever is bottomed out

on

> the rubber brip at the bar. NO JOKE! > > I am used to a very hard lever when i grab the brakes, i usually

only

> use my index and middle fingers to activate the front brakes. i

could

> easily do stopies on my a17 with stock rubber brake lines only

using

> 2-3 fingers. i dont like the way this line feels. > > is there someithing i am not knowing? do i need to modily

something?

> is there a special way to bleed the front brakes? i have worked on > nascar sanctioned race cars for more than 12 years, i know how to > bleed a set of brakes on a car/truck/race car so i dont feel that

i

> am doing it impropperly. > > if i cannot get this issue resolved before the bay area techfest, > somone bring me a good condition stock rubber line, a new bottle

of

> brake fluid and change and bleed my brake line, you can have the > stainless steel braided line.. (if i dont get resiolved before

then).

> > A17 Circus Bear

I've always used Russel Speed Bleeders and I've never had a problem. You can get them from Fred: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html Paul A16

[rm@richardmay.net]

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, Devon wrote:

>Another lister mentioned unbolting the master cylinder, holding it at an >angle so air would rise out of the hose into the reservior, and then >tapping it with a small wrench to hopefully knock any air bubbles loose.

I had some success with tapping on the brake line with a wrench, starting at the caliper and slowly working my way up. I remove the master-cylinder assembly and hold it over the bike. RM

[denis@teachlinux.com]

I just went down to AutoZone and spent $9.00 on their cheapy brake bleeder. Worked great. It's a small bottle and a few bits of hose. HtH, Denis

On Thu, 14 Oct 2004 rm@... wrote: > > > On Thu, 14 Oct 2004, Devon wrote: > > >Another lister mentioned unbolting the master cylinder, holding it at an > >angle so air would rise out of the hose into the reservior, and then > >tapping it with a small wrench to hopefully knock any air bubbles loose. > > I had some success with tapping on the brake line with a wrench, starting > at the caliper and slowly working my way up. I remove the master-cylinder > assembly and hold it over the bike. > > RM > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Mike Peplinski]

Before I read the other 99 respondents to your message, let me say "you got air in the lines" before I tell you my story. I have a 73 Corvette. Went to replace the brake lines and same deal. I had someone step on the pedal while I worked the bleeder. Got lots of air. Brakes would not firm up. Did it over and over and over. Tried sucking the fluid out, again, over and over. My local garage told me that these brakes are touchy and you gotta let gravity do the job. Just let about 3-4 ounces of fluid drip out the lines, keep the reservoir full and it will self bleed. No way to hurry it up. It worked. In fact it worked several times over the years. The message yere is that sometimes following the instructions isn't enough-you have to add some persistence. By the way, I had exactly the same problem on my 75 BMW airhead and the same solution worked. Gove it a try and good luck. Don't look for something mysterious here, it has to be air. BTW-if it was fluid on the pads you would have a firm brake handle but poor braking.

>From: "johnsondesigns2004" >To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_klr650] SS Braided Front Brake Line >Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 15:10:30 -0000 > > > >I recently purchased a stainless braided front brake line for my A17, >just got around to putting it on last night. after flushing the line >and fully bleeding the brakes i took 'er out for a spin to see how >much better these new SS lines really are in comparison to stock >rubbers. got 'er up to speed grabed a hand full of brake and barely >slowed down!. i was headed for a busy street right out of my works >parking lot, I was ready to bail before i was willing to hit the >street. luckilly i got the bike stopped before harm came to myself >or the bike. obviouly i had done something wrong. > >i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked >fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to >make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-bled >again just for fun. > >went out for test run again, got 'er up to speed, grabed a handfull >of brake and barely slowed down! WTF? > >i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked >fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to >make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-bled >again just for fun. cleaned the heck out of all the front braked >components with laquer thinner and an air-hose (this worked bitchen >on race cars). > >again went for a test ride.. same shit different run. what is the >story with these brake lines? is it just my luck or are these things >a major pile of shit? >when i say "hand full of brake" i mean the lever is bottomed out on >the rubber brip at the bar. NO JOKE! > >I am used to a very hard lever when i grab the brakes, i usually only >use my index and middle fingers to activate the front brakes. i could >easily do stopies on my a17 with stock rubber brake lines only using >2-3 fingers. i dont like the way this line feels. > >is there someithing i am not knowing? do i need to modily something? >is there a special way to bleed the front brakes? i have worked on >nascar sanctioned race cars for more than 12 years, i know how to >bleed a set of brakes on a car/truck/race car so i dont feel that i >am doing it impropperly. > >if i cannot get this issue resolved before the bay area techfest, >somone bring me a good condition stock rubber line, a new bottle of >brake fluid and change and bleed my brake line, you can have the >stainless steel braided line.. (if i dont get resiolved before then). > >A17 Circus Bear > > > > > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

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[kelpo2001]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > > > > But really, buy a mityvac > > > > Devon > > A large syringe from a veterinary or livestock store works pretty

well too.

> > Bogdan

I just stuck a 4' length of 1/4" clear plastic hose on the bleeder and sucked on it until the bubbles stopped. Maybe I was lucky, but it worked great the first time. Richard Korpela A15 Chapleau, ON

[James]

You have to bleed and bleed and bleed and bleed............................ Even if you have solid fluid coming out of the caliper, you will still have AIR in the master. Keep flicking the lever and tapping (TAPPING) the res with a small hammer I did this and got a ton more air bubbles out. Keep bleeding the system.

----- Original Message ----- From: "johnsondesigns2004" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004 11:10 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] SS Braided Front Brake Line > > > I recently purchased a stainless braided front brake line for my A17, > just got around to putting it on last night. after flushing the line > and fully bleeding the brakes i took 'er out for a spin to see how > much better these new SS lines really are in comparison to stock > rubbers. got 'er up to speed grabed a hand full of brake and barely > slowed down!. i was headed for a busy street right out of my works > parking lot, I was ready to bail before i was willing to hit the > street. luckilly i got the bike stopped before harm came to myself > or the bike. obviouly i had done something wrong. > > i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked > fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to > make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-bled > again just for fun. > > went out for test run again, got 'er up to speed, grabed a handfull > of brake and barely slowed down! WTF? > > i took the bike back into thye shop re-bled the brakes, checked > fitting, checked the line, check the caliper, checked the pads to > make sure there was no fluid on the pads or the rotor, then re-bled > again just for fun. cleaned the heck out of all the front braked > components with laquer thinner and an air-hose (this worked bitchen > on race cars). > > again went for a test ride.. same shit different run. what is the > story with these brake lines? is it just my luck or are these things > a major pile of shit? > when i say "hand full of brake" i mean the lever is bottomed out on > the rubber brip at the bar. NO JOKE! > > I am used to a very hard lever when i grab the brakes, i usually only > use my index and middle fingers to activate the front brakes. i could > easily do stopies on my a17 with stock rubber brake lines only using > 2-3 fingers. i dont like the way this line feels. > > is there someithing i am not knowing? do i need to modily something? > is there a special way to bleed the front brakes? i have worked on > nascar sanctioned race cars for more than 12 years, i know how to > bleed a set of brakes on a car/truck/race car so i dont feel that i > am doing it impropperly. > > if i cannot get this issue resolved before the bay area techfest, > somone bring me a good condition stock rubber line, a new bottle of > brake fluid and change and bleed my brake line, you can have the > stainless steel braided line.. (if i dont get resiolved before then). > > A17 Circus Bear > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[bigfatgreenbike]

THESQUASHER@... wrote:

>--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117" >wrote: > > >>I'm thinking about mount a vacuum gauge on my A14. Does the vacuum >>line to the petcock have full manifold vacuum? >> >> > > > >I tried that and it didn't work. the needle in the gauge will jump >from 0 to 30 all the time. Its a single cylinder with a CV carb. > > >

You CAN make it work. you need to fit a restrictor in the vacuum line to smooth out the vacuum pulses and "average" the reading. Carburetor syncronizers use a blockage in the vacuum lines with a very small hole drilled in it. Devon