nice riding gear cheap. nklr

[Jim The Canoeist]

Perfectly correct, Dooden. I watched several bolt exchanges at Julian and the loosening force on the breaker bar was considerably more than 130 foot-pounds. I think this is from the bolt 'growing' to its threads and friction at the bolt collar. I think a bolt that has been freshly tightened comes off easier than one which has been in use a while. If I get too anal about it, I'll do some experiments and report back. It's probably documented somewhere too. For tightening, Eagle Mike suggested this way (and that's how I did it): -Be sure the washers on the rear of the tapered flywheel shaft are wet with oil but clean the tapered part of the shaft and the mating surface inside of the flywheel with degreaser. -Be sure the flywheel is fully seated and the woodruff key not lost. (With a center-punch, Mike dimpled the edges of one that had gotten lost and then magnet-retrieved out of some dark recess. That allowed a friction fit in the keyway so it was easier to stay put.) -If continued fiddling does not get the flywheel to slide home, take a break, use Zen, believe it will fit and it will.. -Use a new bolt. -Put a bit of oil on the bolt threads. -Tighten to 80+ foot-pounds and then back off a quarter turn. -Tighten to 120 foot-pounds, tighten further to 130 foot-pounds. The torque wrench was about 2 foot long so the force was about 65 pounds and quite easy to apply. Quite frankly, I think the foot-on-the-brake method is valid but... maybe the best way to avoid the guesses to just use a wrench. We know that is a good method. The wrench needed will not be easily found as it needs an offset to clear the case. Better borrow or buy one of the preferred tools. -Jim in AZ

----- Original Message ----- From: "Dooden" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 3:24 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Rotor removal without holder tool? > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote: > > On Mon, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:14:50PM -0700, Jim The Canoeist wrote: > > > There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and the > rear brake > > > through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely to not > > > overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there > would be much > > > wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work somehow > because of > > > all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the puller. Is the > > > service manager wrong? If so, why? > > > > I'd be more concerned about applying the correct measured torque to > re-seat > > the rotor. Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less > effort, and > > there's no critical torque value involved. > > > "Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less effort " > > Huh ? I thought it was the other way around, 130 ft lbs is not that > much torque, at least it sure did'nt seem like it to me, heck I broke > it loose and redid it to check then set the wrench to 140 just to make > sure I had to pull it harder. > > If I did'nt have the wrench when I did mine, I would have went and > bought a crows foot attachment or made something to work. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape

[Stu]

I asked the mechanic at my local Kawi shop (very experienced, does all the work on the local PD's bikes) about the rotor bolt removal and replacement. He said "Just use an impact, that's what we do". Both ways. Zap it off, zap it on. Ya can't argue with experience. Just my smokey 2 cents. CA Stu PS isn't it amazing how while we were hanging out in Julian, some moron "lost hunter" was right around the mountain, lighting a signal fire that has burned out of control, destroyed tons of property and killed some unfortunate people. What an ass! --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim The Canoeist" wrote:

> Perfectly correct, Dooden. I watched several bolt exchanges at

Julian and

> the loosening force on the breaker bar was considerably more than

130

> foot-pounds. I think this is from the bolt 'growing' to its

threads and

> friction at the bolt collar. I think a bolt that has been freshly

tightened

> comes off easier than one which has been in use a while. If I get

too anal

> about it, I'll do some experiments and report back. It's probably > documented somewhere too. > For tightening, Eagle Mike suggested this way (and that's how I did

it):

> -Be sure the washers on the rear of the tapered flywheel shaft are

wet with

> oil but clean the tapered part of the shaft and the mating surface

inside of

> the flywheel with degreaser. > -Be sure the flywheel is fully seated and the woodruff key not

lost. (With

> a center-punch, Mike dimpled the edges of one that had gotten lost

and then

> magnet-retrieved out of some dark recess. That allowed a friction

fit in

> the keyway so it was easier to stay put.) > -If continued fiddling does not get the flywheel to slide home,

take a

> break, use Zen, believe it will fit and it will.. > -Use a new bolt. > -Put a bit of oil on the bolt threads. > -Tighten to 80+ foot-pounds and then back off a quarter turn. > -Tighten to 120 foot-pounds, tighten further to 130 foot-pounds. > The torque wrench was about 2 foot long so the force was about 65

pounds and

> quite easy to apply. > Quite frankly, I think the foot-on-the-brake method is valid

but... maybe

> the best way to avoid the guesses to just use a wrench. We know

that is a

> good method. The wrench needed will not be easily found as it

needs an

> offset to clear the case. Better borrow or buy one of the

preferred tools.

> -Jim in AZ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dooden" > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 27, 2003 3:24 PM > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Rotor removal without holder tool? > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon

wrote:

> > > On Mon, Oct 27, 2003 at 12:14:50PM -0700, Jim The Canoeist

wrote:

> > > > There is linkage between the crankshaft (read flywheel) and

the

> > rear brake > > > > through an engaged clutch, in-gear (higher gear more likely

to not

> > > > overpower), chain-to-rear wheel & brake. I don't think there > > would be much > > > > wrong with that method except that perhaps it won't work

somehow

> > because of > > > > all the torque needed to remove the bolt and apply the

puller. Is the

> > > > service manager wrong? If so, why? > > > > > > I'd be more concerned about applying the correct measured

torque to

> > re-seat > > > the rotor. Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less > > effort, and > > > there's no critical torque value involved. > > > > > > "Breaking the rotor free requires significantly less effort " > > > > Huh ? I thought it was the other way around, 130 ft lbs is not

that

> > much torque, at least it sure did'nt seem like it to me, heck I

broke

> > it loose and redid it to check then set the wrench to 140 just to

make

> > sure I had to pull it harder. > > > > If I did'nt have the wrench when I did mine, I would have went and > > bought a crows foot attachment or made something to work. > > > > Dooden > > A15 Green Ape

[Don Kime]

At 12:36 PM 10/27/03 -0600, Allan Patton wrote:

>Use an impact wrench to pull the rotor. If you don't have one, borrow one >and an air bubble. It pops off very easy this way.

Allan, what's an "air bubble" and can you describe how you use it to "pop it off?" While you're at it, where might you find one? TIA & Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

[klr6501995]

I would use a impact wrench. Air impact tools are almost magic. My big concern with using the rear break method on rotor removal would be the stress put on the crankshaft bearings and castings. I use the expensive kaw wrench on my rotor. Found out a long time ago that the proper tool makes wrenching fun. Would prefer the air impact but don't have any at the house.

[Allan Patton]

> >Use an impact wrench to pull the rotor. If you don't have one, borrow one > >and an air bubble. It pops off very easy this way. > Allan, what's an "air bubble" and can you describe how you use it to "pop > it off?" > While you're at it, where might you find one?

Don't you just hate it when someone uses the wrong name for a tool. I know I do, and that's exactly what I did. http://www.northerntool.com Search for "air tank". Portable air tanks are light weight and easier to carry than an air compressor. Great for small jobs, like inflating a flat tire. It won't supply the impact wrench very lone, but it's enough to remove the KLR rotor. Allan

[Fireman Ed]

I always called it an "air pig". Dooden you got a uper term for it out in your 'croch'? Fireman Ed A17

> > Allan, what's an "air bubble" > Don't you just hate it when

someone uses the wrong name for a tool. I know I

> do, and that's exactly what I did. > > Allan

[Don Kime]

At 09:45 AM 10/28/03 -0600, Allen Patton wrote:

>Don't you just hate it when someone uses the wrong name for a tool. I know I >do, and that's exactly what I did.

Allen, hate no!, I'm very relieved. I thought there was some magic widget I had never heard of. The tank and compressor I've got! Thanks & Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

[Jim The Canoeist]

Probably because of those L-shaped wrenches. We're all guilty. -Jim in AZ

----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Kime" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Rotor removal without holder tool? > At 09:45 AM 10/28/03 -0600, Allen Patton wrote: > >Don't you just hate it when someone uses the wrong name for a tool. I know I > >do, and that's exactly what I did. > > Allen, hate no!, I'm very relieved. I thought there was some magic widget > I had never heard of. The tank and compressor I've got! > > Thanks & > Ride safe, > Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 > OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach

[dooden]

We always called it a pig. But now I just roll out my vertical compresser and dial in the psi I want and go to it. I can forsee thinking of all kinds of reason to buy air tools, brad nailer is next, then move on from there. Toys... I tell ya, can compair tools to toys easy watch this: ------------------------- Wooo new compresser, but honey now I need an air impact, nailers, grinders ect ect ect... Wooo new Nintendo, but MOM now I need new games, controllers, gizmos, cheater carts ect ect ect... -------------------------- Thats about right eh ? Dooden A15 Green Ape whats a "uper" ? maybe Yooper ? croch ?? Sorry not a clue on what that means. Remember I was removed for 20 years living mostly in the south, basically I can be a polite as a Texan but with a fast spoken speech.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Fireman Ed" wrote: > I always called it an "air pig". Dooden you got a uper term for it > out in your 'croch'? > Fireman Ed > A17 > > > Allan, what's an "air bubble" > Don't you just hate it when > someone uses the wrong name for a tool. I know I > > do, and that's exactly what I did. > > > > Allan

[Fireman Ed]

Ah, as a troll I didn't include the proper spelling of Yooper, but Croch is the part of the house you Yoopers put yer trucks in. Fireman Ed A17

> > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > whats a "uper" ? maybe Yooper ? > > croch ?? Sorry not a clue on what that means. Remember I was

removed

> for 20 years living mostly in the south, basically I can be a polite > as a Texan but with a fast spoken speech. >