Dennis,
Here is a possible solution for removing the rotor puller tool.
This should work if you have several threads showing on the outer
end of the puller tool.
You will need a large nut that has the same thread pitch and
diameter as the rotor puller tool. Cut the nut in half from the top
to the bottom and use a thread file to clean up the threads from the
saw cut. Each nut half should now look like this: \_/
Place both halves of the nut on the puller's threads, as close as
possible to the rotor. Use vice grip pliers to hold the nut halves
in place. Slowly rotate this nut in a clockwise direction until it
bottoms against the end of the rotor. Now you will try to remove
the rotor puller tool (counter clockwise) while you gradually rotate
the the nut in a clockwise direction.
Fred is correct, after the puller has bottomed against the end of
the crankshaft, it is accepted practice to hit the end of the rotor
puller tool while turning the puller to pop the rotor. It is NEVER
ok to hammer on the rotor itself. Under normal circumstances, I
apply rotational force to the puller while I moderately hit the the
end of the puller. I also apply anti-seize to the inner tip of the
rotor puller and its threads. I don't recommend using a slide
hammer or jaw puller.
If this doesn't work, I have one other possible solution, but it's a
bit involved. Contact me off list if you need more help.
Professor
ps: I trust the merchant AND the machinist, but who am I to stand in
the way of a Utah style civil war.
++++++++++
Fred wrote:
> > I have never heard of anyone stripping threads on the
> > rotor or the rotor puller before. This is a fluke and I
> > will be interested in finding out what caused your
> > problem. When you get your rotor puller out, send it
> > to me and I will find out what caused your problem.
> >
> > Usually when a rotor breaks free from the crankshaft,
> > it comes loose with a "pop". If "It (was) just a nice
> > snug push, then it got a little easier", that sounds like
> > the threads pulling loose on either the rotor or the
> > puller or both. Did you have anything between the
> > puller and the rotor? How far did the puller thread
> > into the rotor? The puller should rest on the end of
> > the crankshaft. Is there any chance that your rotor
> > was loose at the bolt already?
> > Does your rotor have any "play" from the crankshaft?
> >
> > I would suggest those that are having problems pulling
> > the rotor to tighten the puller and then give the end of
> > the puller a tap with a hammer to break free the taper
> > on the rotor. If that doesn't work, repeat again till it
> > does.
> >
> > Let us all know what you find out.
> >
> > Fred
++++++++++
Dennis replied:
> Fred and All,
>
> Okay, there is nothing between the puller and the
> crankshaft. The puller threaded in as it should, with a
> lot of engagement until it contacted the crank. I then
> put the rotor-holding wrench on the rotor, put a socket
> on the tool, and about about a 18" handle on the socket.
>
> It was quite stiff at first, then it turned slowly. It
> turned in the same manner about 1.5-2 complete
> revolutions. It then became much easier. I thought I
> detected axial movement, but I could be wrong I suppose.
>
> Now, when grasped on it's sides, the rotor still feels solid
> to the crank. The puller has a slight amount of play
> between it and the rotor. The puller can now be spun in
> either direction with my fingers only, but does not go
> farther in or come out. If you look at where the threads
> enter the rotor and turn it, it gives you that "barber
> pole" effect, if you know what I mean. The tool is now
> stuck and not leaving the building, but turns freely.
>
> My only thought is that now I need to rig up a three jaw
> puller on the backside of the rotor, and mount a slide
> hammer to it. I'm open to any other suggestions.
>
> FFDennis