tensioner chain adjustment question

[Ron Hipkiss]

"Dielectric grease can be a double edged sword. It is non-conductive, so while it does seal connections from water" Isn't dielectric grease supposed to conduct electricity? Cpt. Ron Sacramento, CA

[Ron Hipkiss]

After a quick search on the net, I found that dielectric grease is indeed non-conductive. Before the internet, how long would that have taken to find out? Cpt. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Ron Hipkiss [mailto:rhipkiss@...] Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:57 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] breakdown diagnosis "Dielectric grease can be a double edged sword. It is non-conductive, so while it does seal connections from water" Isn't dielectric grease supposed to conduct electricity? Cpt. Ron Sacramento, CA

[Rich Kickbush]

Don't think of going the other way, there are conductive greases around but if these migrate you're in deeper sh*t. You can get contact protector sprays that will bond to the metal and give you less chance of a bad connection. Also, RTV where the wires enter the plug will help seal the connector - just remember, preventing water getting in means preventing water getting out as well... Rich

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Hipkiss" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:56 PM Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] breakdown diagnosis > "Dielectric grease can be a double edged sword. It is non-conductive, so > while it does seal connections from water" > > > > Isn't dielectric grease supposed to conduct electricity? > > Cpt. Ron > Sacramento, CA > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

[BCSavWill@cs.com]

Hi, Courtesy of Elden Carl, BALANCER ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR POST 1996 KAWASAKI KLR-650s: By ELDEN CARL Even though Kawasaki has greatly improved the balancer adjustment mechanism in KLR 650s they're still faulty if not adjusted properly. The main problem is that there is no snap ring retaining the balancer adjustment lever. The lever can actually stick to the adjustment bolt when it is turned out, and get cocked and bent when the bolt is turned back in. When the engine is started, it, (the lever) can be hit by the back of the large starter gear nearby. I have experimented with the balancer mechanism adjustment on the engine I am building and come up with what I think is the only sure fire procedure. A. Lean the bike to the right as far as you can. (I lean mine against the wall, in gear, while the engine is still hot so the oil won t be too sticky). B. Lower the bashplate and remove the plug from the adjuster bolt. C. Loosen the bolt less than turn and then turn it back in until it just starts to tighten. D. Back the bolt out again to exactly turn and tap the end of it gently with a plastic mallet. E. Turn the bolt back in and torque it to 8.5ft. lbs. F. Replace the rubber plug and bash plate and go riding. What about pre-1996 KLRs ? For liability reasons I will give you no advice as to adjustment procedures or torque specifications. If the old bolt has ever been over torqued the lever may never move again. If the brittle old spring is broken the chain may loosen instead of tighten when adjusted and then jump off track, destroying your engine. ` I would not ride a KLR in heavy traffic that did not have the new parts and my drive washer installed or at least the pins and springs that drive the balancer inspected to make sure they are all there and in good condition. If you think I m being overly dramatic ask Kurt Grife, Jim Bellach, Dan Turner, or Rupert Humphrey: all of whom have had their engines blown up by the balancer gremlins. Rupert lost two, one at open throttle. PLEASE FIX YOUR PRE-1996 KLR 650. I have been accused of helping to drive down the price of used pre-1996 KLR650s, but a properly updated KLR650 is as good as a new one and better in some ways (more on that later). I am counting on Kurt Grife a bunch to document the bulletproofing of his KLR and to help me force Kawasaki to prove they aren t the same guys who enslaved our servicemen during WW2 by fixing these potentially deadly KLR balancer mechanisms and clutch baskets which are throwing chunks of spring out into the oil stream. The above is probably the definitive adjustment technique. Just done mine again and this time I tapped it with an educated 4oz ball pein and it unstuck for the first time. This method realy works. Brian A14 D17 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]