DSN_KLR650
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Ted Palmer
- Posts: 1068
- Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2000 7:09 am
Post
by Ted Palmer » Tue Sep 19, 2000 8:45 am
Tom Simpson wrote:
[...]
> Ted Palmer wrote:
[...]
> > I never got a warp out of it, but did get some bluing on the disc.
>
> Isn't the 600 a fair bit lighter than a 650? That may be an issue.
Fade is fade, whether from boiling fluid or pads giving up.
Either way, the stock disc doesn't have much in the way of heat sink
mass.
At least the 650 has a disc rear brake which would cool faster than
the drum on the 600, even if the little disc might fade as fast.
I lost count of how many laps I did on that particular race track
(Calder Park for the Melbourne-aware) but I got used to the fade
after a couple of corner cutting episodes where I came to appreciate
the KLR grasstracking abilty.
In case anyone is interested I was using either stock pads or maybe
Dunlopads.
I suppose that anytime you blue a stainless disc you are at risk of
warping it. Maybe 600 discs were made of better material back in 1985.
Mister_T
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Mark
- Posts: 653
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 8:03 pm
Post
by Mark » Tue Sep 19, 2000 9:59 am
At 1:12 PM +0000 9/19/00, * Deks* wrote:
>Tom,
>It seems you got too much money to spend.
>The KLR 650 C series has got the same fork, disc and caliper as the KLE 500.
>The disc is 2cm larger and 1 to 1.5 mm wider than our disc. The fork is
>40-41mm, while ours and Tengai forks are 37-38mm. The caliper of the KLE500
>and KLR650C is not made for the disc KLR650A and Tengai bikes have, so why
>put it there? The Tengai has the same caliper as the KLR650A, but different
>than the KLR650C and KLE500.
>Oh, almost forgot: our bikes (KLR650A and Tengai) brake better than KLR650
>and KLE500 Kawas even though the two latter have bigger&wider discs and
>bigger calipers.
In the U.S., the Tengai has a 20mm larger disc than the 650A model
and also has a larger, twin-piston caliper. The Tengai's forks, while
38mm, have ~0.75mm thicker walls than the forks on the 650A. The
braking on the Tengai is noticeably better, but I find the braking on
the 650A models to be good enough with a just stainless steel brake
line upgrade, unless you're hauling a boat behind your bike.
Mark
B2 (a.k.a. KL650B2 Tengai)
A2 (with Tengai front end)
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Jim Jackson
- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2000 7:35 am
Post
by Jim Jackson » Tue Sep 19, 2000 2:47 pm
Tom's post got me thinking about better brakes. We know that a MAPP large
diameter brake will cost $400.00. I have been told by my dealership that if
I wanted to grind the old rotor I couldn't, I'd have to replace it. $350.00
new. Tom has a friend with a great braking bike with FJ600 parts. So I call
a local bike salvage yard and they have 3 FJ600's. How much for a good rotor
and caliper? $120.00!!!
Now if this will really work I will be happy to pay for shipping charges to
get the parts there if someone with their own KLR-A is willing to fabricate
in true machinist fashion a mounting bracket and some means of centering the
new mounting holes for the rotor. If it works, that person could sell it as
a kit. Better would be a good sport bike rotor/caliper where the rotor
mounting did not need to be redrilled but that's probably not going to
happen. It would be nice to be able to get a replacement rotor for less than
a hundred bucks and have it better than the stock one. Any problems with
this idea? I'm heading to the salvage yard some time soon with an old rotor
for size-comparison purposes. What would be ideal for the KLR? The bigger
the better? Are most of them cross-drilled or solid?
So... any takers? Respond off-list and we'll arrange something.
Thanks,
Jim Jackson II
A13 "Gonzo"
South Carolina
>
>I had a friend who had fitted a caliper off of a FJ600 to his KLR and
>warped the every-living heck out of his rotor in short order. He then
>fitted a rotor off of the same wrecked FJ and a home-made adapter
>bracket to get enough standoff. Now *that* is a KLR that stops.

>
>
>-Tom
>'96 KLR 650
>
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Stuart Mumford
- Posts: 1178
- Joined: Tue Apr 11, 2000 6:45 pm
Post
by Stuart Mumford » Tue Sep 19, 2000 7:48 pm
>As my Y2KLR has broken, now with 3500 KM, it seems to miss shifts and find
multiple false neutrals all the time, only in the >first three gears
generally, but it is a total pain in the ass. Any thoughts?
Hey John, check your gearshift lever for interference / being bent. Have you
installed a bash plate? A lot of people hit their gearshift levers on one of
the brackets.
CA Stu
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