vid of snowy canada trip. bitter sweet.

[fw189uhu]

Bought a very low mileage 09 KLR that ran but had sat for at least nine months, maybe a year.  I've exhausted my limited tech knowledge on this. Drained the fuel tank, added new fuel and the recommended amount of Seafoam.  Have the following indications: - Starts and runs fine with full choke - Dies immediately after choke is retarded, even when fully warmed up - Slow throttle advance always kills engine - Fast throttle advance sometimes accelerates rpm, but more often kills engine - Occasionally get pops when throttle is advanced quickly (unless it kills the engine, of course) Prior to starting bike for the first time I removed the header pipe (was extremely loose anyway) and wrapped with fiberglass tape.  Reinstalled header with new gasket, installed the correct way around.  Tightened header nuts to factory torque.  I have the Haynes and Kawasaki maintenance manuals. I have no clue what is causing this, so I don't know where to start troubleshooting.  I've done the obvious like rechecking header nut torque, but beyond that I'm at a loss. Suggestions?

[Eddie]

I'll bet a tank of gas on: The pilot circuits in the carb are gummed up. The low speed jet is the most likely culprit. Thank today's gasoline formulations. Seafoam and anything else you can put in the gas isn't being drawn up into the plugged are because, well, they're plugged up. (Remember what happens when a lemon seed gets stuck in your drink straw at a restaurant? Like that.) We're talking *tiny* little holes that a piece of fine wire will damage. The carburetor need to be removed and properly cleaned. -eddie ----- Original Message -----

[b]From:[/b] dhk@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:45 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] 09 Won't Run Without Full Choke  

Bought a very low mileage 09 KLR that ran but had sat for at least nine months, maybe a year.  I've exhausted my limited tech knowledge on this. Drained the fuel tank, added new fuel and the recommended amount of Seafoam.  Have the following indications: - Starts and runs fine with full choke - Dies immediately after choke is retarded, even when fully warmed up - Slow throttle advance always kills engine - Fast throttle advance sometimes accelerates rpm, but more often kills engine - Occasionally get pops when throttle is advanced quickly (unless it kills the engine, of course) Prior to starting bike for the first time I removed the header pipe (was extremely loose anyway) and wrapped with fiberglass tape.  Reinstalled header with new gasket, installed the correct way around.  Tightened header nuts to factory torque.  I have the Haynes and Kawasaki maintenance manuals. I have no clue what is causing this, so I don't know where to start troubleshooting.  I've done the obvious like rechecking header nut torque, but beyond that I'm at a loss. Suggestions?

[Jeff Saline]

#ygrps-yiv-439392639 .ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-photo-title { TEXT-ALIGN:center;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-photo { BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;WIDTH:62px;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;HEIGHT:62px;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 P { PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;CLEAR:both;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 DIV.ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp { BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;MARGIN:10px 0px;PADDING-LEFT:10px;PADDING-RIGHT:10px;FONT-FAMILY:Arial;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;PADDING-TOP:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp HR { BORDER-BOTTOM:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-TOP:#d8d8d8 1px solid;BORDER-RIGHT:#d8d8d8 1px solid;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-439392639hd { LINE-HEIGHT:122%;MARGIN:10px 0px;COLOR:#628c2a;FONT-SIZE:85%;FONT-WEIGHT:700;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-439392639ads { MARGIN-BOTTOM:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-439392639ad { PADDING-BOTTOM:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-TOP:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-439392639ad P { MARGIN:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-439392639 #ygrps-yiv-439392639ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-439392639ad A { COLOR:#0000ff;TEXT-DECORATION:none;} On 17 Dec 2014 09:45:53 -0800 "dhk@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   Bought a very low mileage 09 KLR that ran but had sat for at least nine months, maybe a year.  I've exhausted my limited tech knowledge on this.   Drained the fuel tank, added new fuel and the recommended amount of Seafoam.  Have the following indications:   - Starts and runs fine with full choke - Dies immediately after choke is retarded, even when fully warmed up - Slow throttle advance always kills engine - Fast throttle advance sometimes accelerates rpm, but more often kills engine - Occasionally get pops when throttle is advanced quickly (unless it kills the engine, of course)   Prior to starting bike for the first time I removed the header pipe (was extremely loose anyway) and wrapped with fiberglass tape.  Reinstalled header with new gasket, installed the correct way around.  Tightened header nuts to factory torque.  I have the Haynes and Kawasaki maintenance manuals.   I have no clue what is causing this, so I don't know where to start troubleshooting.  I've done the obvious like rechecking header nut torque, but beyond that I'm at a loss.   Suggestions? <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><>   I agree with eddie it is the pilot jet or circuit.  Probably the jet.   You must remove the float bowl and then remove the pilot jet.  It is in a cavity next to the main jet which is easy to find in the middle of the carb.   Be careful when you turn the carb as the plastic nut for the enrichener (choke to many people) cannot take much strain.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . .     . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Apple's Crazy New Gizmo[/b] Forget the iPhone 6. Next hit Apple product leaked. (see picture) fool.com

[zoot]

Just had the same thing with a low mileage purchase of mine. Try the simple first. I advanced the butterfly valve idle screw until it idled, and all was well. Had already checked the carb and changed the jets though, so knew that the carby was clean. Fresh gas never a bad idea. Todd On 12/17/2014 9:45 AM, dhk@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

Bought a very low mileage 09 KLR that ran but had sat for at least nine months, maybe a year. I've exhausted my limited tech knowledge on this. Drained the fuel tank, added new fuel and the recommended amount of Seafoam. Have the following indications: - Starts and runs fine with full choke - Dies immediately after choke is retarded, even when fully warmed up - Slow throttle advance always kills engine - Fast throttle advance sometimes accelerates rpm, but more often kills engine - Occasionally get pops when throttle is advanced quickly (unless it kills the engine, of course) Prior to starting bike for the first time I removed the header pipe (was extremely loose anyway) and wrapped with fiberglass tape. Reinstalled header with new gasket, installed the correct way around. Tightened header nuts to factory torque. I have the Haynes and Kawasaki maintenance manuals. I have no clue what is causing this, so I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I've done the obvious like rechecking header nut torque, but beyond that I'm at a loss. Suggestions?

[libertyeagle]

I would bet my money on a Loose PetCock Vacuum hose. You did just take the tank off and there are hard to get back on to seal. Michael

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-1821769101 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1821769101cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1821769101cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 .ygrps-yiv-1821769101plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 .ygrps-yiv-1821769101plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1821769101 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 .ygrps-yiv-1821769101plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1821769101 .ygrps-yiv-1821769101plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Obviously, I agree with Eddie, Jeff & Zoot.   1) I recommend the same course: drain the gas completely from tank & carb. You should know how to do this on your bike regardless as may have to do it after dropping in a creek or getting bad gas. Fuel doesn't last very long these days. A bad running condition or no start is often just bad fue. I see them all the time.   2) A good Sea Foam treatment, by filling the carb with Sea Foam by removing the fuel hose from the tank petcock, then fill the carb and leave sit for a day or two. Periodically, crank the engine for maximum of 2 seconds, periodically, with choke off. You are not trying to start the engine, just to move fresh Sea Foam into the small passages. Following the sitting time, drain the Sea Foam from the carb and allow the carb to fill with gasoline, then see if it will allow you to run enough to ride. If able to ride, it may clear itself.   3) I'm assuming that you are not experienced with carb cleaning as I would simply pull the carb and be done with the issue but not as simple for everyone. If you have the idle mixture plug removed, try backing the idle mixture screw out a couple of turns as that may richen things enough to allow it to keep going and clear itself.   4) Remove the plastic choke cable "nut" from the left upper side of the carb, as this will allow the carb to be rotated sufficiently to remove the float bowl. Typically, trying to rotate the carb far enough to remove the float bowl will break the choke nut. Down side is that some people have trouble dealing with the choke nut also. They can be a real "joy".   5) Loosen the carb boot clamps, remove the throttle cable bracket from the right side of the carb, (one Phillips screw) and unhook the cables.   6) Rotate the carb bowl to the right and use a good fitting Phillips screwdriver bit, with valve lapping compound on the bit, to remove the float bowl screws. I use a Gear Wrench 1/4 " ratcheting combination wrench to turn the screwdriver bit.   7) Take care with the bowl not to damage the float while removing the bowl.   8) Remove the float pivot pin and the float.   9) Remove idle mixture screw, spring, washer and "O" ring. Inspect the "O" ring to see if it is swelled by the fuel.  If so needs a new one. Doesn't happen often but some turn to goo.   10) Remove main jet and emulsion tube.   11) Remove idle pilot jet.   12) If have ultrasonic cleaner, "buzz" the parts with Simple Green then Windex or your favorite concoctions.   13) Inspect and probe the holes in jets, and tubes. Take care not to enlarge them but typically one will need to run a wire or jet drill as a probe to displace build-up in the small holes.   14) If have high pressure air, blast these parts and the idle pilot jet hole only. Be careful not to introduce high pressure air unadvisedly as blasting the slide diaphragm chamber is likely to burst the diaphragm. Since it's not usually necessary to remove the diaphragm for a quick clean, one needs take care regarding where the air is directed.   15) Shoot some carb cleaner such as the Honda stuff in spray cans through all passages.   16) Might be a good time to change out the pilot jet for one size larger as this is usually better for running and gets rid of the most likely bad part.   17) Back together and try.   What did I miss of the top of my head?

[John Biccum]

I d plan on replacing the carb bowl screws with stainless Allen head capscrews during the cleaning process. The Philips head screws are easy to bugger up during the removal process. The screws are 4mm x 0.7 mm and the length isn t very important since the holes are not blind holes. Something 30mm or so long should work. I found the screws at a local industrial supply place. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:30 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: 09 Won't Run Without Full Choke Obviously, I agree with Eddie, Jeff & Zoot. 1) I recommend the same course: drain the gas completely from tank & carb. You should know how to do this on your bike regardless as may have to do it after dropping in a creek or getting bad gas. Fuel doesn't last very long these days. A bad running condition or no start is often just bad fue. I see them all the time. 2) A good Sea Foam treatment, by filling the carb with Sea Foam by removing the fuel hose from the tank petcock, then fill the carb and leave sit for a day or two. Periodically, crank the engine for maximum of 2 seconds, periodically, with choke off. You are not trying to start the engine, just to move fresh Sea Foam into the small passages. Following the sitting time, drain the Sea Foam from the carb and allow the carb to fill with gasoline, then see if it will allow you to run enough to ride. If able to ride, it may clear itself. 3) I'm assuming that you are not experienced with carb cleaning as I would simply pull the carb and be done with the issue but not as simple for everyone. If you have the idle mixture plug removed, try backing the idle mixture screw out a couple of turns as that may richen things enough to allow it to keep going and clear itself. 4) Remove the plastic choke cable "nut" from the left upper side of the carb, as this will allow the carb to be rotated sufficiently to remove the float bowl. Typically, trying to rotate the carb far enough to remove the float bowl will break the choke nut. Down side is that some people have trouble dealing with the choke nut also. They can be a real "joy". 5) Loosen the carb boot clamps, remove the throttle cable bracket from the right side of the carb, (one Phillips screw) and unhook the cables. 6) Rotate the carb bowl to the right and use a good fitting Phillips screwdriver bit, with valve lapping compound on the bit, to remove the float bowl screws. I use a Gear Wrench 1/4 " ratcheting combination wrench to turn the screwdriver bit. 7) Take care with the bowl not to damage the float while removing the bowl. 8) Remove the float pivot pin and the float. 9) Remove idle mixture screw, spring, washer and "O" ring. Inspect the "O" ring to see if it is swelled by the fuel. If so needs a new one. Doesn't happen often but some turn to goo. 10) Remove main jet and emulsion tube. 11) Remove idle pilot jet. 12) If have ultrasonic cleaner, "buzz" the parts with Simple Green then Windex or your favorite concoctions. 13) Inspect and probe the holes in jets, and tubes. Take care not to enlarge them but typically one will need to run a wire or jet drill as a probe to displace build-up in the small holes. 14) If have high pressure air, blast these parts and the idle pilot jet hole only. Be careful not to introduce high pressure air unadvisedly as blasting the slide diaphragm chamber is likely to burst the diaphragm. Since it's not usually necessary to remove the diaphragm for a quick clean, one needs take care regarding where the air is directed. 15) Shoot some carb cleaner such as the Honda stuff in spray cans through all passages. 16) Might be a good time to change out the pilot jet for one size larger as this is usually better for running and gets rid of the most likely bad part. 17) Back together and try. What did I miss of the top of my head? ---------- ---------- ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Horton Oliphant]

And to answer my own question:"Long Time Traveler" sung by "The Wailin' Jennys" I love their sound. Alan Henderson On 12/14/2014 5:10 PM, Horton Oliphant hortonhearsawho@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

> So do we know who this guy in the video is and is he on the list? > Can anyone identify the music at the end of the video? Sounds quite > familiar but I just can't place it. Alan > > >