broken chains, broken hearts, and other klr tales from the sioux

[ron criswell]

Great read Rev, sounds like a great ride (Mt., Wy.) me too on the no radio or music while riding. Get  a cigarette light plug to recharge the GPS. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Sep 23, 2014, at 12:47 AM, "mjearl4@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

  PROLOUGE My latest chapter of KLR adventure is nearly complete...the bike is in the barn, some of the things like tents and drop cloths were dried today, and except for picking up and replacing the broken pieces, it will be completed with this ride report.

Believe it or not, none of the broken stuff is attached to me, well, if you don't include the blown out gloves.  None of the broken stuff is so bad that a few green-back photo's of Ben Franklin shoved across the counter won't cure; yet I digress. 

The GPS shows some 1495 miles, slightly more miles were actually  ridden as the GPS fails to record anything after power is lost when the plug loses electrical connection...and it does not reflect the distance the Sturgis rescue posse dragged my BLUE MULE, aka the Blue Pig, dragged it home the last ~130 miles. sigh.

Chapter 1. (Day 3)

It was a dark and stormy night.

Really.

It is about 9pm (2100) on a Friday evening, I peered up into the heavens near Sundance, WY, and I wondered, "Where did all the clear skies and bright stars go?"

I was immediately answered by the soft pelting of rain.

In the dark.

In less time than it took you to read this, I asked the question and was answered with rain.

And it is still 50 plus miles to Sturgis, and I am NOT wearing the rain liner for my pants.

sigh.

Fortunately, it is just a passing shower, but enough rain to beat the mosquitos that are glued to the face shield, beat them into a mush that is swept away by the 75mph blast across my face shield-- and I press on, following as often as possible in trace of another East bound automobile towards their own destinations, known only to them.  I use their headlights to give me an additional sight-distance, hoping that it will serve as additional warning of deer or elk that may be on the highway.

The day (Day 3) began in Red Lodge, MT where Ross Linberg and I met the day before.  Waiting for our lodge-host to prepare our breakfast, we are treated to the long, piercing, howl of a wolf.  Our host mentions to others, that is a wolf which the first howl is immediately responded/replied by a second, and perhaps a third answering wolf, which precipitates some nervous twitter of conversation and laughter.  Not to be out done, a cacophony of yelps, coyotes who foolishly join into the yodeling contest, much to the amusement of the citified folks standing in line for breakfast. 

Q. Why do wolves like city folks best for breakfast?

A. They taste like chicken.

More nervous laughter follows as I describe a serious wolf encounter in Siberia where the wolves come into town and feast on children going to/from school.  Not likely to happen today, but it is something Sam Colt/John Browning contemplated many years ago, and I for one am grateful/prepared by their efforts.   

Ross and I joined up on Thursday afternoon after he has ridden his KLR , uh, upgrade-to-Tiger, from Williston, ND.  We attempt a highlands ride into the face of an approaching storm, and disgression being the better part of valor, we high tailed it back into Red Lodge, acquiring a room at the inn after a mild wallet biopsy performed to escape 5 hours of rain. 

Our breakfast has been properly stowed, our bikes are loaded and no tourist or and tourista have been harmed by wolves or tall tales, we head in a Southerly direction out of Red Lodge.  What begins as a day, planned to ride the Bear Tooth, Chief Joseph Highway into Cody, WY, and US14 across the Big Horn Mts., this day will ultimately end in Sturgis, SD for me.  Ross and I will ride the Bear Tooth Pass South of Red Lodge into Cook City, MT, then the Chief Joseph Highway to Cody, WY.  While eating our early lunch of Chedder Bomb Burgers at the Buns and Bed Caf , I realized, I need to be a long way down the road.  Some things can't be helped, can't be helped unless you actually, get up and go help. 

The trip had started for me early on a Wednesday, and the cell phone dutifully recorded two calls from a friend who still lived/ranched in the previous parish I have previously served.  I retrieved these two calls as I was setting up my tent in Cody, WY, just as the sun passed below the horizon.  The first call is date/marked at 08.36; it is chatty and without urgency;

"How are you doing, hey, call when you can." 

The second call is at 2.47 (1447); more direct, more dire,

Janet [his sister] has died from the brain tumor; service will be on Saturday."  

Janet actually passed away on Tuesday, but some new travels slowly; more slowly when you live 250 miles away, and even more slowly if you are strapped to a KLR, WOT on secondary roads where cell phone service is spotty and actually encounter worse coverage =  in and out of cell phone coverage while riding in the Wyoming Mts.  The phone is traveling buried in a pocket somewhere and this operator is not looking at a phone unless it is early in the morning or late at night.   

I listened to the phone messages, called my friend Steve, and was left to contemplate these calls for the next 36 hours, and wished I was not so far away. sigh.

I am reminded of the axiom I coined for a time such as this,

Death is inconvenient for the living."

Always has been, always will be.

Fortunately, my friend Janet did not suffer pain, but she is gone and my friends that I have shared meals with, chased cows, rode horses, and killed deer with, are now without a wife, a mother, a sister, and a friend, and gone is a genuinely good person, and I am far, far away.

I seem to do a lot of contemplating while mounted on a horse or this thing we call the KLR650.  I don t listen to music or other electronic noise while riding it interferes with the contemplative value of the motorbike.  This contemplation of Wed evening, all day Thursday, up until 1200 on Friday occurs on the back of a KLR 650 while attacking the roads of WY and MT that look like they were lifted from the Swiss Alps.  I had no idea how beautiful and how rugged (and incredibly dangerous) this part of the world could be...and not all the danger is the road or the terrain but the fellow drives who are apparently equally mesmerized by the immense beauty, but still behind the wheel.  Ross and I dodge other drivers more often than we dodge fallen rocks scattered about the highway.  The rocks have a larger clue of their purpose and are easier to predict.

The ride is not over at noon on Friday, it just goes in another direction, perhaps sooner than the plan, but goes on nevertheless. 

I will arrive in Sturgis at 10pm (2200) and will be back in the saddle again at 445am (0445) Saturday morning.  I arrive in Highmore, SD 30 minutes before the service with time to spare. 

It is a long haul from Sturgis to Highmore, and I do the mental-how-much-gas-will-it take, but I fail to factor in the wind and heavy throttle setting...and I pass by possible gas refueling stations because, I am confident of my fuel range. 

Seems easy enough,

Whack. 

Boot to the Head,

as Cheech and Chong's skit described the young student that was not-always, so-bright.

--some 60 miles from the destination, but only ~11 miles to the next fuel station, the bike flat dies without warning and does not respond to RESERVE fuel while coasting to a stop, still in gear, ever hoping it will hit and I will be on my way.

Nope, not today.  The Blue Pig coasts to a stop without a secondary whimper.  So close, yet still so far away.

Same song, second verse from Friday s previous bad gas (more on that later);

Drag out the tools and drain the carb bowl again for the second time in 18 hours and the bike fires immediately.  I know I am on reserve and nervously watching my watch.  I should have gone to max range (~45mph), but I choose to go at 55mph and nearly pay a steep price.  As I crest the final hill to Ft. Pierre, SD, I can see the Missouri River in the distance and I believe I have it made in the shade, ah, no, the bike dies a second time, out of fuel but not out of gravity.  I immediately pull in the clutch, shift into neutral, and hunker down over the tank to minimize drag.  I coasted over a mile, coasting into the only gas station for the next two miles, with 3 feet of coasting-energy left in the bike. I push out the kick stand directly in front of the gas pump, and dig out the credit card.   

That was close.

No double secret reserve required by me!  Using double secret reserve when the Blue Pig is loaded like a BLUE MULE is not a good option...and I am grateful I did not have to use it.

revmaaatin.

note: double secret reserve is laying the bike on the left side and sloshing trapped fuel in the right  wing of the gas tank, into the left side.  You only have to do that once to teach you, better fuel management.

[Stu]

OK - got bike running, and getting her sorted out - and finally being able to ENJOY her.... Life, work - all those bad four letter words keep getting in the way... So I take my bike into the local non-dealership shop - typical shop arrogance the fact that my ol' girl is just a 2002 KLR650 - (w/6k miles) No, she's not a BMW, KTM, or a Ducati, but I chose her and she chose me... (kinda' like when I found my dog at the local shelter)... So, I'm taking Sheila (my bike's name - Australian term of endearment for fun, promiscuous girl) in for an upgraded and stiffer spring for the rear shock and to have the front fork seals checked/replaced as well as let them do the 16t sprocket upgrade while they are in there. Geniuses that they are and they got paid good money for their services, they used Gen 2 specs when filling the forks which is about 20% more than Gen 1 fork capacity. Plus, I had already added upgraded to heavier springs and I run 15 wt fork oil. I wouldn't be so disparaging about the shop except they condescendingly spoke down to or about Sheila. So, the question is - should I worry that they overfilled my forks or not? I understand the air pocket will be smaller and front will seem stiffer, but that may be ok for now (cold weather - unlikely to be off pavement much), but I do not want to create either a mechanical or safety issue. Thanks in advance, -Stu 2002 KLR650 w/6500 mi young Upper Frame bolt drilled through (PITA) upgraded remaining frame bolts ss brake lines w new pads and tires Thermo-Hickey and Doo-Bob TopGun rear spring upgrade Straight resistance front fork spring Hi-Cap Stator Corbin seat Lowering links Happy Trails skid plate and exo-skeleton gripper foot pegs stiffer shifter lever rear master cyl cover 14" Windscreen and accessory dash (nothing in it yet) Wolfman soft panniers and tank bag

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 23:03:33 -0400 (EDT) "Stu klr650zen@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: SNIP

> Geniuses that they are and they got paid good money for their > services, they used Gen 2 specs when filling the forks which is > about 20% more than Gen 1 fork capacity. Plus, I had already added > upgraded to heavier springs and I run 15 wt fork oil.

SNIP

> So, the question is - should I worry that they overfilled my forks > or not? I understand the air pocket will be smaller and front will > seem stiffer, but that may be ok for now (cold weather - unlikely > to be off pavement much), but I do not want to create either a > mechanical or safety issue. > > Thanks in advance, > -Stu

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Stu, I'll suggest the fork oil level should be adjusted to proper specs. Whether you worry about it or not means nothing as they will still be overfilled. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ Buffett's "Real Threat" See the technology W. Buffett calls the "Real Threat" to his fortune. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54223cb71c4a83cb664c8st01vuc

[Jeff Saline]

Stu, The fork oil spec is 190mm +/- 2mm from the top of the fork with the spring out and the fork compressed. That is the baseline. The spring doesn't matter for the oil level as it is out of the fork when the oil is installed and adjusted. The spacer length is adjusted to preload the spring and that is part of tuning the fork. Follow the spring maker's instructions on initial preload and then adjust as needed for your riding conditions/style. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 On Wed, 24 Sep 2014 06:34:08 -0400 (EDT) Stu writes:

> LOL, > > Thanks for the Zen philosophical - > > I can worry about things that will not harm me or not worry about > things that may... > > Simply put, they suggest that the overfilling will have no > detrimental effect on the forks save that they may be stiffer due to > the smaller air pocket - they're not hydrolocking. And, of course > that is what they will say, since they made the mistake and don't > want any liability. It's an imperfect world and people make > mistakes, I don't care about blame. But, if the overfilling puts > unnecessary force on components during their constant exercise of > expansion and contraction then I definitely want it put back to > "spec". > > But then what is spec? > Since the forks are no longer original config anyway, what is the > correlation of the current configuration to an appropriate oil > level. That's what I'm trying to deduce. Heck, I have PVC pipe cut > for spring spacers and that is an adjustable variable as well. > > The simple answer may be trial and error, but I do not have the > KLR650 knowledge/experience to speculate where the initial baseline > should be. > > So, spec is no better or worse than any level to start from I guess. > At this point, it's just a number, but likely easier on the > components. > > Thanks for helping me think this through, though > Stu > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Saline" > To: klr650zen@... > Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 11:37:10 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Going to a Shop - aka Gen 1 Front Fork > capacity limits > > On Tue, 23 Sep 2014 23:03:33 -0400 (EDT) "Stu klr650zen@... > [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes: > > SNIP > > > Geniuses that they are and they got paid good money for their > > services, they used Gen 2 specs when filling the forks which is > > about 20% more than Gen 1 fork capacity. Plus, I had already added > > > upgraded to heavier springs and I run 15 wt fork oil. > > SNIP > > > So, the question is - should I worry that they overfilled my forks > > > or not? I understand the air pocket will be smaller and front > will > > seem stiffer, but that may be ok for now (cold weather - unlikely > > > to be off pavement much), but I do not want to create either a > > mechanical or safety issue. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > -Stu > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Stu, > > I'll suggest the fork oil level should be adjusted to proper specs. > > Whether you worry about it or not means nothing as they will still > be > overfilled. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Buffett's "Real Threat" > See the technology W. Buffett calls the "Real Threat" to his > fortune. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/54223cb72c463cb664c6st01vuc >

[Norm Keller]

As Jeff said, you are generally safer with the specified level ...by "safer" I mean that you are more likely to have results similar to those of which you are used. No time to look up the height specs as out the door to work on a friend's tractor but will look later on out of interest. Having the oil height somewhat higher or lower shouldn't be a safety issue. Regardless, a simple test ride over your test course will reveal any anomolies.

 

As was stated, higher oil level/more oil reduces the air pocket and so has the effect of a stronger spring. It might be that you are happier with the results so you may wish to ride with it as is to evaluate. If nothing else, you will have two data points for your own use of your bike. Changing fork oil level isn't a difficult operation so you may wish to do some adjustments for yourself. If you conclude that the level is too high for your use, you might take a few cc out by removing each drain plug from the fork leg and measuring the amount drained. A finger over the hole can control flow if you wish to go drop by drop. Take the same amount out of each, record the amount and then try.

 

You sound like an analytical and patient person so this type of operation and evaluation may be right up your alley. You can progressively remove more oil as desired.

 

A fork level tool can be purchased for modest cost or made for almost nothing from a length of straight ridgid tubing such as 3/16" steel brake tubing, nylon tubing, or copper. A clothes pin or small "C" clamp to set the amount of tubing protruding below the fork top and a syringe with some PVC tubing/hose is makes the tool. Happy to help in identifying.

 

I think one can suction out Gen1 fork oil by way of the Scharader valve hole but Jeff will catch this if recollection is incorrect. I can check on my bike later on as now it's bugging me that can't recall for certain.

 

FWIW, and the more informed are likely properly horrified, I measure fork oil level at the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position with the forks in place rather than to remove in order for the oil to be level. My hypothesis is that the oil will be higher at the back (6 o'clock) and lower at the front (12 o'clock) but correct at 3 & 9. Seems to work well and checked out when a set of tubes were measured plumb and angled off the bike.

 

A disclaimer is that I likely am not as perceptive of suspension performance as are many others so simply may miss some sublties. Hoping to be debased of errors....

[Norm Keller]

#ygrps-yiv-782954086 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-782954086cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-782954086 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-782954086cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-782954086 .ygrps-yiv-782954086plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-782954086 .ygrps-yiv-782954086plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-782954086 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-782954086 .ygrps-yiv-782954086plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-782954086 .ygrps-yiv-782954086plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Not going to repeat my often posted "BMW is a girl's bike story" but had to laugh when your anecdote reminded me of the arrogance.    Odd how people hold such silly ideals as status symbols. One observation which I am certain has occurred in everyone's mind: If the shop show you such little respect and are so reckless/entitled that they think that treating you in this way, one might wonder how respectful/trusted they might be on performing the work. Were it me, I'd be looking for another shop.   I can't imagine any of the shops with which I am familiar would be so reckless as to be openly disrespectful.   I operated a professional tool business for the last 10 years before retiring in which I visited more than 300 technicians weekly. Some of the stories were side splitting. A favorite along the subject line of yours was from a shop in Mission City, BC. One of the techs had said something silly which tickled the sense of humor of everyone in the shop and (slow day) it was repeated by someone from time to time which put everyone in stitches again. A difficult customer was dealt with by the service writer and on his going out the door, someone in the back happened to repeat the joke line (nothing to do with the customer at all) which had the whole crew laughing again. The customer heard the laughter, jumped to the conclusion that it was directed to him and rushed back to confront the service writer with, "Are you making fun of me!?!". The service writer looked him straight in the eye and dead-panned, "No, sir. It's our policy to wait until you have left to do that." The customer stared at him for several seconds, hard drive spinning, then said, "OK, that's all right then." and left.   They nearly needed to call the ambulance as some of the guys were literally rolling on the floor. Sometimes a risk pays off. 

[bigburlybaldbeardedbiker]

"Stu" klr650zen@... asked:

>So, the question is - should I worry that they overfilled my forks or not?  

-Stu Well, there is some allowed variation, but it's easy enough to fix.   Take a hand pump from a bottle of liquid soap or hand lotion, either cut it to the correct length or add some tubing to make it the correct length and just pump out the excess from both sides.   Remove both fork caps, pull the springs, slip the pump down into the fork tube, pump it out, put the springs and caps back on. Good luck, Paul Streeter

[Martin Earl]

snipping from NORM,A fork level tool can be purchased for modest cost or made for almost nothing from a length of straight ridgid tubing such as 3/16" steel brake tubing, nylon tubing, or copper. A clothes pin or small "C" clamp to set the amount of tubing protruding below the fork top and a syringe with some PVC tubing/hose is makes the tool. Happy to help in identifying. end snipping Another fork oil level check and forkoil removal tool a 're-used' spray bottle. Mine is a Prestone Windshield, Frost-spray squirt bottle; you LEFT-Coast guys/gals may have to use something else. grin.Cut the hose to length (as suggested ie. 190mm or length desired)place over the top of the fork and 'squirt' until flow stopsYou can use Norm's suggested clothes pin to vary the length so as to use it in more than one purpose. revmaaatin. who is not sitting 'frosty' yet, but its a coming.

On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 10:19 AM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: As Jeff said, you are generally safer with the specified level ...by "safer" I mean that you are more likely to have results similar to those of which you are used. No time to look up the height specs as out the door to work on a friend's tractor but will look later on out of interest. Having the oil height somewhat higher or lower shouldn't be a safety issue. Regardless, a simple test ride over your test course will reveal any anomolies. As was stated, higher oil level/more oil reduces the air pocket and so has the effect of a stronger spring. It might be that you are happier with the results so you may wish to ride with it as is to evaluate. If nothing else, you will have two data points for your own use of your bike. Changing fork oil level isn't a difficult operation so you may wish to do some adjustments for yourself. If you conclude that the level is too high for your use, you might take a few cc out by removing each drain plug from the fork leg and measuring the amount drained. A finger over the hole can control flow if you wish to go drop by drop. Take the same amount out of each, record the amount and then try. You sound like an analytical and patient person so this type of operation and evaluation may be right up your alley. You can progressively remove more oil as desired. A fork level tool can be purchased for modest cost or made for almost nothing from a length of straight ridgid tubing such as 3/16" steel brake tubing, nylon tubing, or copper. A clothes pin or small "C" clamp to set the amount of tubing protruding below the fork top and a syringe with some PVC tubing/hose is makes the tool. Happy to help in identifying. I think one can suction out Gen1 fork oil by way of the Scharader valve hole but Jeff will catch this if recollection is incorrect. I can check on my bike later on as now it's bugging me that can't recall for certain. FWIW, and the more informed are likely properly horrified, I measure fork oil level at the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position with the forks in place rather than to remove in order for the oil to be level. My hypothesis is that the oil will be higher at the back (6 o'clock) and lower at the front (12 o'clock) but correct at 3 & 9. Seems to work well and checked out when a set of tubes were measured plumb and angled off the bike. A disclaimer is that I likely am not as perceptive of suspension performance as are many others so simply may miss some sublties. Hoping to be debased of errors....

[Jeff Saline]

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[DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> writes:   As Jeff said, you are generally safer with the specified level ...by "safer" I mean that you are more likely to have results similar to those of which you are used. No time to look up the height specs as out the door to work on a friend's tractor but will look later on out of interest. Having the oil height somewhat higher or lower shouldn't be a safety issue. Regardless, a simple test ride over your test course will reveal any anomolies.   As was stated, higher oil level/more oil reduces the air pocket and so has the effect of a stronger spring. It might be that you are happier with the results so you may wish to ride with it as is to evaluate. If nothing else, you will have two data points for your own use of your bike. Changing fork oil level isn't a difficult operation so you may wish to do some adjustments for yourself. If you conclude that the level is too high for your use, you might take a few cc out by removing each drain plug from the fork leg and measuring the amount drained. A finger over the hole can control flow if you wish to go drop by drop. Take the same amount out of each, record the amount and then try.   You sound like an analytical and patient person so this type of operation and evaluation may be right up your alley. You can progressively remove more oil as desired.   A fork level tool can be purchased for modest cost or made for almost nothing from a length of straight ridgid tubing such as 3/16" steel brake tubing, nylon tubing, or copper. A clothes pin or small "C" clamp to set the amount of tubing protruding below the fork top and a syringe with some PVC tubing/hose is makes the tool. Happy to help in identifying.   I think one can suction out Gen1 fork oil by way of the Scharader valve hole but Jeff will catch this if recollection is incorrect. I can check on my bike later on as now it's bugging me that can't recall for certain.   FWIW, and the more informed are likely properly horrified, I measure fork oil level at the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position with the forks in place rather than to remove in order for the oil to be level. My hypothesis is that the oil will be higher at the back (6 o'clock) and lower at the front (12 o'clock) but correct at 3 & 9. Seems to work well and checked out when a set of tubes were measured plumb and angled off the bike.   A disclaimer is that I likely am not as perceptive of suspension performance as are many others so simply may miss some sublties. Hoping to be debased of errors.... <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   Norm,   I too think the 3 or 9 o'clock positions are most accurate.  I made a tool using steel brake line and a turned piece of metal so I could center the suction tube in the fork tube and also adjust length of the suction tube as desired.   I think a guy could remove oil through the schrader valve in the fork cap but that process would only be good for removing oil.  The procedure for adjusting oil level calls for the spring removed and the fork compressed so the cap would be off for that operation.   I'll suggest the majority of KLR riders are better off with forks that are a bit softer than forks that are a bit harder.  RevMaaatin and I talked about this the other evening for a short bit.  Everyone should tune their forks for their riding conditions.  I suggest spacer length might be more important than oil level if the oil level is close to correct.   If I had a shop work on my bike and discovered they did the work incorrectly I would be asking them to correct the error.  The outcome of that would help me determine if I would ever be returning to them for additional work.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . .     ____________________________________________________________ [b]The #1 Worst Carb Ever?[/b] Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!) 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