klr rant.

DSN_KLR650
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Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

lower c of g?

Post by Norm Keller » Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:12 pm

I keep thinking of the approach taken in many bike designs and wondering about applying to the KLR. Part of the issue is long suspension travel & such but the fact that it is easier to lift a dropped 680 pound Honda ST1100   than a 420 pound KLR is interesting....
 
One advantage to many bikes is that the fuel tank is placed lower in the bike. I keep thinking of the ST approach in which the carbs and air box sit in the fake tank (turtle shell) with the fuel sitting down behind the engine.
 
Anyone happen to have the air box and carb off a KLR and can take some dimensions & photos. I keep forgetting to do this when things are apart.
 
It would require a carb swap but how about a down draft carb with air box above and the fuel tank down in the frame?
 
The Honda fuel pump only requires 1.1 amps so that would be doable.

ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

lower c of g?

Post by ron criswell » Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:22 pm

I have always thought that approach would be the best. Put the shock underneath (Buell like). Weight up high es no goot. RC Sent from my iPad
On Jul 7, 2014, at 8:37 PM, "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]"DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
  I keep thinking of the approach taken in many bike designs and wondering about applying to the KLR. Part of the issue is long suspension travel & such but the fact that it is easier to lift a dropped 680 pound Honda ST1100   than a 420 pound KLR is interesting....   One advantage to many bikes is that the fuel tank is placed lower in the bike. I keep thinking of the ST approach in which the carbs and air box sit in the fake tank (turtle shell) with the fuel sitting down behind the engine.   Anyone happen to have the air box and carb off a KLR and can take some dimensions & photos. I keep forgetting to do this when things are apart.   It would require a carb swap but how about a down draft carb with air box above and the fuel tank down in the frame?   The Honda fuel pump only requires 1.1 amps so that would be doable.

RobertWichert
Posts: 697
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am

lower c of g?

Post by RobertWichert » Tue Jul 08, 2014 8:41 am

This is a good idea. A plastic tank would help a little too. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C HERS I/II CEPE CEA BPI CERTIFIED SF/MF GREEN POINT RATER +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 7/7/2014 6:37 PM, 'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:
I keep thinking of the approach taken in many bike designs and wondering about applying to the KLR. Part of the issue is long suspension travel & such but the fact that it is easier to lift a dropped 680 pound Honda ST1100 than a 420 pound KLR is interesting.... One advantage to many bikes is that the fuel tank is placed lower in the bike. I keep thinking of the ST approach in which the carbs and air box sit in the fake tank (turtle shell) with the fuel sitting down behind the engine. Anyone happen to have the air box and carb off a KLR and can take some dimensions & photos. I keep forgetting to do this when things are apart. It would require a carb swap but how about a down draft carb with air box above and the fuel tank down in the frame? The Honda fuel pump only requires 1.1 amps so that would be doable.

Desert Datsuns
Posts: 95
Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 9:26 am

klr rant.

Post by Desert Datsuns » Wed Jul 09, 2014 8:38 am

Yes, but it's these orifices that are the number one problem with carbs. They clog easily, and once they do the bike is out of tune, and you need to do a rebuild. You don't have nearly as much a clogging issue with injectors because 1) they have a filter, and 2) the high pressure resists clogging. All of the little orfices and passageways make carbs very complex. Where-as an injector just has a single hole through the middle that opens and closes. Yes, there are more external devices like the ecu, pump, timing sensor, temp sensor, but all in all the bike efi is extremely simple. I convert my old Datsun cars from carbs over to efi, because the efi is worlds better than the carbs. I wouldn't go through all the hassle of swaps like that if it wasn't such a marked improvement. I seem to do ok tuning the Keihin flat slides, but I absolutely hate the Mikuni vacuum carbs. I've had soo much trouble with them they drive me insane. My 2009 KLR (thankfully) hasn't given me an issues. If/when it does, I'll likely do the FCR mod.RyanPhoenix "jokerloco9@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:  

There are few moving parts to a carb.  Most of the rest are fixed orifaces.  Keep the carb clean, and it won't give you any trouble.  I have operated equipment with 100+ year old carbs.  Clean them, and they work fine.   Jeff     -----Original Message----- From: Stephen North stephennrth@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> To: DSN_KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tue, Jul 8, 2014 5:10 pm Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: KLR Rant.   I like the line "the simplicity of a carb has merit". Simplicity? Sure looks like a lot of little parts in there to me, and if they aren't all marching to the same tune she runs like crap. My WR250R has fuel injection (plus wide ratio 6 speed, 350 watt stator, 26,000 mile valve checks, tunable suspension front and rear but I digress) and it just goes. Turn the key and ride off. No choke, no warm up, just go. Long trip?, just pack another pump body (eBay $35.00!) if you are that worried about it. Carburetors should join the manual typewriter, points and condenser and buggy whip pile but that's just me.

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